Projects 1934 Chevy coupe. Chop and channel.

From where I stand, I think my 1934 Chevy Master five window coupe needs to be chopped and channeled.
I’d love to see some examples of work done by folks on this forum. YouTube is full of examples, but I don’t necessarily trust them
as “good advice”.
Since this is my first hot rod build, think of me as a novice when it comes to modifying a body and frame to change the stance of a hot rod.
I have several 1960s Chevy C10 trucks, but I have not modified the body or frame. Only suspension modifications.

 

Building your first rod from a wood filled Chevrolet may be quite a challenge ...

 

Can’t quit now. I’m innovative and creative. No need to reinvent how to do something though. I read a lot and seek out expert advice.

 

Cool car
Gonna play devils advocate. Why the channel.
I’ve done that to an off topic ride.
What’s the style you’re after.

 

I’d like a classic hot rod style. Not sure I can describe it, but I know it when I see it. Pic I copied below is from this thread. It’s channeled. Looks awesome.
Slight chop. Nothing drastic. The channel would hide the frame at the body. I can see how she sits once I get the body pulled back into shape. Door frames are spread wide at the bottom because the cab supports are wonky. Lower door frame wood has rotted away.

 

Like that answer.
I’ve messed with an early gm
Get the body panels fitting before modifying.
Square up the body with the chassis. Get the doors fit and shutting
Then modify

 

Yes indeed. I will build a rolling cart for the body and get it straight and braced. Doors need to fit. That’s the first step.

 

I’d fit the body on the chassis.
Carts can be deceiving.

 

Ok Leave the body on the chassis for now...first thing is..how good are you at welding sheetmetal..,,Replace all the wood in the doors with steel...Do you want to suicide the doors ? I chopped
the 36 Buick 3 window in my avatar....

 

Oh , I channeled the car 6 inches...Leave the body on the frame till you chop , channel , get the doors fixed...

 

I would chop it about 3 1/2" but not channel it, but that's just me.

 

I can weld sheet metal acceptably well. Example in pics. Ok, I’ll leave the body on the frame for now. Might only chop 2”. Gotta play with photoshop to see what I like. That’s a long way away.

 

Ok thats good welding there...remove all the wood...clean all the inner surfaces ...etc..metal good for welding...trim the nail tabs off...tack the door in place ..get some steel from a supplier.. 1 inch square tubing for the front and back , across the top to join , across the botton to join..of door inner structure / some 14 gauge for inner door structure...you can heat the tubing with a torch to shape it...Just getting you ideas to get ready....

 

It wasn't specifically mentioned, but I assume that it'll be fender-less? What are the plans for the front suspension? Is there any of the wood left?
I was lucky with mine. Most of the wood was still good and solid. I replaced the "Knee-Action" front suspension on mine with a 1950 Chevy 1/2-ton front axle.

 

Whatever is going to be your door gap, get some steel strap that thickness and cut a can full of 1x1 pieces to tac in place every 12 inches, then tac the doors and trunk lid in place and you should have a solid shell to rewood or fit steel framing to.

 

The front and rear suspension was done before I got it. Other HAMBers said the changes would be frowned upon on this forum. Looks like a quality job was done though. Let’s just say it currently has IFS and IRS installed. Yes, likely go fenderless but the purchase included new fiberglass fenders and running boards. I have choices to make.
The purchase included a wood kit. It remains to be seen if it is the CORRECT wood kit. I certainly didn’t see pieces to make a new floor. Most pieces were bundled and labeled. Either way, I’ll likely do steel. If the wood pieces are correct, they can be used as a pattern to speed up the metal fabrication process. About 2 months before I bought this coupe, my good friend bought a 1934 1 ton Chevy truck which he will swap to a 1/2T frame. This is sure gonna be an adventure.

 

if its the correct wood kit , use it...a little reverse engineering , relief cuts in the perimeter door frame., reweld relief cuts after install........i did one years ago...they came out of the factory with wood and its a quality job...you need the turnbuckle that keeps door from sagging and pulls the door in at the bottom to align it...those wood kits are way over a 2 thousand bucks..

 

Love the truck.
Id rock that just like it is.

 

I think I have all of that. One door was partly disassembled but I have that diagonal rod and wood that was removed from that door too.

 

Nice to see another non Ford project! I'll be following.

 

Recently I was given a quote for a new wood kit for my coupe. $8200. Yep. Very expensive.

 

If you test fit the wood then coat it with epoxy resin (WEST system etc.) while assembling, it will become very stable and essentially waterproof.

 

The nails are the brad style spiral shank.....not sure where you can get them.....if you can.....sandblast the inside of the doors and epoxy seal them....and....here it comes..............no pics ....it never happened....lol...

 

Don’t worry. I document everything I do with pictures. I have a website that shows my work progress. It’s a way I keep myself motivated and share information with others. It’s way easier than digging through old computer files to find information. Here’s an example of how I document things.
https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/diy-3-point-seat-belt-installation.html

 

Great documentation and photos you took on the seat belt install...ill bought the 3 point kit and will be doing the same on my Dodge 3 window ...As far as a chop on the car ...i used dowels when joining the wood back together and made flat plates to secure the sections also...Nice truck....

 

I don't know if I'll help you or scare you away, but it may at least give you a direction as to what you can do or don't want to do in the reconstruction part of your build. This could get photo heavy if I'm not careful. Also, it's been years since I actually did all this work and for years tried to totally forget everything that went into this build. I am NOT a carpenter, and some have told me I kinda know a little about Sheetmetal. Replacing the wood in the doors was pretty simple for me so look close and maybe you can see yourself doing some version of this for your project.

End result here is hidden hinges and power windows and Bear Jaw door latches. Due to how the window glass needed to be installed I chose to reverse the normal installation of the Door Latch units. This is all pretty Basic Tin Bender work with an ongoing eye to fit and finish.
Below is where the Basic build started being I went with the Zero wood thought. New sill beams are 2"x 3" x 3/16 tubing. Everything mounted to it as far as body supports. If your going to channel you would want to do things a little different. You do need to use the rocker piece but it would need to be a bit taller to go along with the Channel job.


Pay no attention to that F ed up firewall. I changet that further into the build once I discovered it had the cowel distorted a ton.
"DISCLAIMER!!!" These photos are in no way directions in a "How To" do anything! You have to understand that I in No way think like normal people. That is how I talked myself into doing this job to start with. This was a long way from my First build but in the end and at 76 years young pushed me into total retirement and no longer for higher. I have a long backlog of Personal projects to do and sold off everything that even closely resembled anything like this kind of work. I'm down to two Top Chops, finish body work on my F-100, new rockers and quarter bottoms on my 32, getting my 57 H.T. back together and finishing the reconstruction of my 40 Coupe, you know, all the simple stuff.
Best of luck on your upcoming decision.

 

9 out of 10 times a fenderless car with IFS looks like shit

 

I should have mentioned that the work I posted is on a 34 Chevy Standard Sedan. If you're thinking of using the wood for a pattern for metal transfer, I suggest you closely inspect all the router work done around the window channel and the Door Latch unit and determine how you're going to duplicate it. If the latch units are not usable with a little clean up and lube, what are you going to do about that. Don't get your hands busy without your mind fully engaged. Also, if you're going fenderless (I support that direction) then I personally would also push the complete stock Chassis off the to use list. Build yourself a fresh strait rail frame with front and rear Hot Rod components. Now you can build a flat floor to your liking and Not use the stock Gas Tank and that Butt Ugley gas tank cover. Just build yourself a normal Hot Rod with 34 Chevy body skins. A buggy spring dropped I Beam axle is totally acceptable in the front and I'd go C-10 (you know about those) arms in the back with again Buggy Spring or Coil overs. That's about as simple as it gets, and I agree with swade41.

 

It's your car but I am a welder fabricator I would channel a car but I would I never chop a car.

Building body mount and floor panels is pretty straight forward sheet metal brake and bead roller work. A chop requires major metal working tools hammers sandbags, English wheel planishing hammer and the skill to use them.

Not to mention making the windows go up and down fit and seal, plus making the doors fit close and stay closed going down the road.

I have seen any coupe become "roadsters" during a chop because people found it was easier to just cut the roof off then to finish the chop.

 

Figured out what’s needed so the hinges aren’t sloppy. I’ll cut the pins to the right length after I source the bushings.