Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Are you planning on using the center hole for your push start? First, I had a barrel key to turn on the ignition and used two red lenses to show that my fuel pump and ignition was ready to fire, then hit the black button to fire the engine as my photo shows. Seeing your instrument panel's great looks, I just ordered the silver engine turned sheet for my gauges - thanks to you sir!

 

Yes sir I got the the switch in today. Wait so did you have an electric fuel pump? I thought about doing something similar. Original when I got my dash the guy had drilled 5 holes in it so I decided to get an insert. What are all the gauges you ended up running ? I looked at one of your photos from your thread and was trying to eee your dash lol

 

Yes, I was running a Carter fuel pump that I replaced with the Carter fp that was originally used in my '31 (from the late sixties). As far as the gauges, the Stewart Warner mechanical (not the Wings) are the originals in the coupe when built as a hot rod in the late sixties. The six gauge set were the Speedometer, Tachometer, fuel, amp, oil pressure and the water temp was the only gauge that I bought new, needing Stewart Warner to match exactly what I had originally. If and when I decide to go new, they would definately be the 6 gauge black set from Mooneyes.

 

Have you been making any progress lately on the 31? I hadn’t seen any updates in your thread.

 

Honestly, the huge task of my chassis setup with my mock up hemi with new motor mounts, empty 700R4 trans case and finishing up the final completion of my Winters Champ quick change rear with new ladder bars - took everything I had saved up in cash to that point. Along with the repair of the front frame rail which was slightly bent downward on the passenger side ahead of the firewall and boxing the rails with the addition of a square tubed center x-member for a '32 Ford. I wanted with absolute certainty to save my original frame at any cost! Now I'm concentrating on completing the brake system, hunting for the parts that I'd really like to see, moving forward. Have to take off the body once again to make the brake system install much easier. Once this task is done, I'll start posting my progress in my build thread once again - and be very proud to boot!!

 

Absolutely understandable. What are the parts you’re needing or that you’re looking for? Brakes are a complete pain in the ass. I did my brakes and then installed my motor and the front spring settled too low. I’m going to have to move my front brake lines now because they’re sitting in between my steering rods.
When do you see it moving under its own power?

 

As far as my brake system, I have everything that I need, copper/nickle brake line roll, except the necessary brake line fittings; (chrome/stainless steel) the So-Cal all polished kit for front disc brakes with Wilwood dual piston calipers and hiding everything under the polished aluminum '53 Buick replica finned drum covers is exceptional to look at and already installed! Need a nice wiring kit to start wiring the coupe soon after the brakes are completely finished.

I'm going to need a new 700R4 trans with a converter, hoping I can find some of the transmission builders that I've known for a few years now through my auto parts deliveries here in Arizona and cross my fingers that I can get a super deal on labor to build it. I might even consider getting a used one from a local yard... Then measure for a new driveshaft - shortest driveshaft that I've ever had!

Now for my '392 - I purchased a rare genuine vintage Edelbrock dual quad manifold, but will need new carburetors. Hoping I can get a set that can work as blower carbs down the line when and if I can purchase a new Weiand Supercharger kit that now goes for over $5,000. The one I originally purchased through Speedway Motors back in 2007 went for $3,300 or so and lost it from an unpaid debt for a measly $1,700, the last payment I owed on the machine shop expenses on my hemi. Is she a beauty or what!!!!

 

Man that thing looks good, hopefully you can get it all sorted out cause I want to see that thing together. Have you broken in the engine at least to know what it sounds like?

 

with the so-cal kit were you able to get the outer bearing, washer, castle nut and cotter pin in?

 

The first photo shows where I'm at this moment. No carbs, water pump and crankshaft pullies, spark plugs and wireset I have, etc. I finally was able to purchase the specific oil filter mount to allow the oil filter to mount horizontally so it works with the install on the PASSENGER side. Would've had serious room problems on the driver's side most likely... Then of coarse is the wiring task that will be next after the brakes, which will be done soon enough. Remember, I lost the complete blower setup in the next two photos of a VERY IMPRESSIVE '92 to the engine builder for the remaining $1,700 out of the 7 grand total that I owed him for his labor expenses... I had spent over $5,000 for the Weiand supercharger setup with those Holley blower carbs, Hilborn style air scoop, carb linkage - hoping he would give me some of that cash back after selling my setup to make up for his remainder debt, but he never did. That really hurt because NOW these blower kits are well over $5,000 for a 6-71 ($3,300 new from Speedway Motors back in 2007), the 2 blower carbs are over $1,000 or more. I need to see if a local hot rod shop would purchase another 6-71 blower kit for HIS PRICE, saving me some righteous cash...

Yes indeed. What Dale and I found out after installing the So-Cal disc brake kit is that some of the new parts has to be removed again just to bleed those dual piston Wilwood calipers, which isn't too bad... Up for the task is trying to cover the center hub cover with Spider Hub Caps, which would look REALLY tough on those chrome reverse wheels that I have on all four corners!

 

the last time I installed one, the cotter pin would not go in unless you deleted the washer, which I didn't want to do. they had bored the hole through the center of the hub too big which forced them to not be able to set the outer race in far enough. they sent me multiple sets and still didn't work. I guess they finally fixed the problem.

 

Can anyone here show me what the original suspension looked like on a 1934 Chevy Master coupe? I might want to convert back to original suspension. The rules on HAMB don’t allow me to talk about the current front or rear suspension on my coupe. See this link if you want to know what I have (which was already done when I bought this coupe). https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/1934-chevy-master-5-window-coupe.html

 

Greetings from ground zero.
Today is day #1 as I begin building a 1934 Chevy Master 5 window coupe.
It was delivered to me 12/30/23. All I did up to today was buy wheels and tires so I could move it easier. I also bought door hinge pins so I could at least hang the doors.
I had to finish another big project before starting on the 34.
Included with my 34 was a wood kit. I wasn’t sure how complete it was, but there sure was a lot of wood!
Today I drug out the wood and started figuring out what went where. A real puzzle. I got a lot of pieces figured out but I still have pieces that are a mystery.
The pics show I have new framing for the interior of each door as well as DS and PS body A and B pillars and both upper door frames too. I also have the body framing for around the trunk.

 

This should help
https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1934/index.htm
No idea why it didn’t quote you @Jay Altemus

 

You are very fortunate to have all of that wood. It is also a good thing that by this time all of the bodies were made by Fisher. With some research you can find manuals showing all the parts and instructions on assembly & repair. I wish this was true for my '26 roadster. We are having to create the manual. You can start here. If you decide not to use the wood there is someone out there who will. It is valuable! Every piece!
1934 Chevy body by Fisher

 

Thanks for the helpful link. I think I’ll order a hard copy.

Thanks for the link. I find these wood framed cars fascinating. I was not sure I had a pile of wood that was correct for my 34 since I never saw any pieces that would fit around the rear side windows. The kit might even be for a different model but so many match up exactly that I guess it must be correct. It sure was fun piecing them together with several “Aha!” moments along the way.
Got plenty done today. Removed several pieces of structural wood above and below the dash including bracing.

 

My Dad always called a Chevy a Chivvy. I always got a kick out of that!

 

I like it! It looks like to has a lot of metal brackets where the wood pieces join. That will add some strength and give good alignment clues by using the screw holes for reference. We have found that the screw holes on the '26s we are working on have the screws in the exact same places and not just in a good enough place to hold them together. They must have had a jigging system.

 

Yes. The brackets look to be very precise. I even found a rodent nest.
I’ve got a build blog on my website that can make it easier to follow along. I’ll still post here too, but not as many pictures here. https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/1934-chevy-coupe-build-page

 

Great pictures you'll be glad you have them. A citric acid bath will easily remove the rust form all the small parts. Big ones take a big bath. I'm still not sure of the best way to treat I seal it all when putting it back together.

 

Hi Jay, Because I know nothing about the "Master" series of Chevy cars, does your windshield roll straight up with a knob like my '31 USED to do? Looking over your detailed pictures, I may have missed the device or not. May I offer some great advice Jay? And believe me and countless others - go in the direction of hot rodding your '34 Chevrolet Master. Like my '31 Chevrolet AE Independence Sport Coupe, your '34 will become a one-of-a-kind hot rod (in a very small group) that very few hot rodders have in the entire country. And more important, the absolute joy that you will experience behind the wheel of a car that you and others helped get back on the road and cruising the streets with other hot rodders is second to none... Nuff said - take it or leave it!

 

My 34 has a fixed windshield. Nothing moves up, down, in or out.
I don’t plan to rebuild the 34 like a factory fresh coupe. Street rod is the plan. I’ve seen plenty of great looking 34 Chevy coupes on Google images to convince me I want a street rod.
I have a 65 Chevy C10 short bed stepside and a 63 C10 short bed fleetside. Fun drivers with hidden upgrades that don’t spoil the vintage look.

 

pretty cool you have a lot of the wood for the car. I didn't know both the 3/5 windows came in masters; for some reason I thought it was one or the other

 

In 1934 they didn’t make a 5 window standard.

 

had no idea, thanks for the insight. Plan to run original suspension, engine ect? Running hood and fenders?

 

I have a fresh 283 SBC ready to go. A prior owner has changed the suspension. I’m not allowed to talk about it on the HAMB. I have the fiberglass fender kit for this car, but I’m not sure I’m going to use it. Those decisions will come as I explore things. You can see the entire collection of pictures on my website. Here’s the link.
https://lugnutz65chevystepside.weebly.com/1934-chevy-master-5-window-coupe.html

 

If you don't run fenders please change the front suspension. If you must run a transverse spring that is obviously your call but I always thought it funny that the same guys that like 3 stringers Fordicate Chevy hot rods. I can see the front spring perch on the end of your frame but it looks like the rear perches are gone. The 50s Chevy pickup axles & brakes are a good fit. Maybe the springs too since you need the rear mounts anyway. The problem with parallel springs is getting the car really low. There are some tricks but eventually there is and axle to pan or frame issue. I think it is another Chevy +. It keeps us from building so low we can't get to the wrong side of the tracks. If you want to stick the axle out front and shorten the frame horns there is the quarter elliptic option. Chevys ran them before '25. I plan to run them on the rear of my roadster so I can end the frame at the end of the body.
I'll be watching your blog. Looks like a Blue 292?

 

That’s a 1963 Chevy inline 230 in my 63 fleetside. It came out of another 1963 C10. Runs fantastic. Wrong color blue but I really don’t try too hard to be “factory correct” when it comes to engine paint. My mantra is “It’s a truck, not a Ferrari!”

 

I never thought about running those apache front axles, and my buddy got his lowered by sid in oklahoma. That's actually a pretty good idea, how long are those axles ?

 

Wow! The side covers looked taller to me. That is why I said 292. Very clean. My 153 four cylinder is 2/3 of a 230.
Snoop 74, Sid's site has pictures and measurements of Chevy axles. The ones I was thinking of were '48-first '55 but I don't know if the later one until independent suspension are the same. The pickup springs are different lengths than the older cars but the same width. The older car axles are not as heave as the pickups. It might be possible to pit the pickup spindles & brakes on the car axles. I am going to use '49 Huck brakes. They are a bit more trouble to adjust than the later Bendix but the front drums are tapered and the 18"-19" Chevy six lug wire spoke wheel fit. I hope to be assembling my front axle soon. I want to modify it so it mounts on top of the springs if there is enough room. That will lower the front the height if the axle & the spring. I have seen some Chevys with ridiculously dropped axles that I did not like at all. I hope I can figure out the steering, I hate to have to use ropes.