I've been trying to troubleshoot/cure a starting problem with my 55 wagon with a 350 sbc since last summer I'll start at the beginning and what I've tried, hopefully the HAMB can come to the rescue. Purchased the car in June of last year, after about a month it would occasionally not want to turn the engine over. Solenoid would "click" once and not turn starter motor over, I'd do this several times, click once, try again, click once and then vroom. Multimeter the battery, 12.4-12.6 volts, once started, alternator kicked in and multimeter showed ~13.8-14.2 volts. Figured it was the contact plate in the solenoid being persnickety but I lived with it till end of summer. Fall, some health issues took ahold and I'm not able to bend over or crawl under a car anymore Wanted to continue driving it so took it to a local "hot rod" repair place, told them what was happening, they replaced the complete starter with a high torque model. Car started fine for a week then back to the "click" thing, my faith in the shop is now gone. If I hook up my trickle charger to the battery it will read 14.8ish volts and vroom, it will start right up no clicking. Tried this every few days for a month same result, if battery is reading 12.5v-12.8v, click scenario, hook up trickle charger, vroom, starts right up with 14+v. Now I'm thinking maybe not enuff CCA, had Autozone check the battery, no dead cells but only showed 450CCA, put a new 700CCA battery in.....same results...clicks only with 12.5-8v, starts right up the second i hook up the trickle charger. Replaced negative battery cable to a freshly sanded off place on head, same results. I'm past my poor attempts at fixing this, any suggestions????
I would look for a dirty ground or even a lose connection somewhere. It could be as simple as a lose wire on your starter switch. very frustrating but it’s bound to be something simple.
I would look at the cable going to the starter, the ends may not be making good contact with the wire inside. Also have you got a ground going from the engine to the frame and from the frame to the body? Could also be a bad key switch in the start position.
What is the voltage reading on the “S” terminal on the starter solenoid when trying to crank the engine? There is a chance of low voltage on the “S” wire from the ignition switch. This “S” circuit could be wired through a neutral safety switch as well.
So my tractor sits out all year long. The only thing electrical on it is the battery for the charger, and the battery for the glow plug. So pretty basic, right? With a new deep cycle battery a week later I’d have to put tge charger on it. WTF? Then, decided to jump the solenoid with a screw driver. No issues. Never pulled a meter out etc until just a few days ago, had my kid turn the key and had no voltage to the solenoid. So pulled the switch out, sprayed inside, cleaned connections and the wire connections, no problem all weekend. Didn’t put it on the charger at all. Was a simple fix for me, but just saying to check and make sure you have 12v at the solenoid when the key is turned to start. All I got.
Dreamweaver, you replaced the ground cable? Now replace the Pos cable. Took two months for me. I am dense. Ben
When you measure the battery voltage, is that while you have the "start" position on the switch closed? If you are just measuring battery voltage while nothing is turned on, it won't mean much. You can have a battery at 12.8V, but as soon as you put a load on it, it can drop to nothing. I went through 3 after market ignition switches which all had the same problem and had the symptoms you list, before I fixed it.
What does the battery voltage do when you get the click? Does it stay at 12.4 - 12.6? The answer to that question will tell you what to do next to solve your problem.
I'd check the negative battery cable where it attaches to frame/engine block/body tin. If the negative battery cable is not bolted directly to the engine/transmission, I would move it there.
Given that you got a new battery and everybody else has already talked about good connections... I'm kind of with the guy above who mentioned your ignition switch...
Measuring voltage drops will pinpoint the problem area: Use a voltmeter to measure Battery + post to both the B terminal post (battery cable) and S terminal post (Ignition Sw.) and it should be a .5 volt or less (closer to zero the better the wiring/connections) while CRANKING. NOTE: Voltage drops only occur when current in flowing. Also measure battery - post to starter housing (clean metal/no paint) and it should read less than .3 volts (again closer to zero the better). This will tell you which part of the circuit is causing the issue, battery + cable/connections, ignition switch circuit (wires,connections,switch) or battery - cable/connections. Voltage drops tell all good luck!
Or if not that is his problem. I am Positive! And not short on puns. I am wired and amped up about this thread and not negative, shocked to see the other replies. Fuesed and ready to ignite, insulated from all critique, I am ready for a breaker.
Is the solenoid mounted on the wheel well/fender area? Make SURE the metal where its mounted is NOT painted ! Clean shiny metal. The mounting screws make the ground needed for it to work. Ya got one of those funky-look'in flat ground wires going from the engine to the body? (they are proven to work better than just a plain wire) 6sally6
Not mentioned. Primary power from the battery goes directly to the ignition switch to dual terminal. Any resistance there or in the switch is just as bad as ground issue’s.
Regarding replacement ignition switch; if you can't find a good used unit, Danchuk #119 is switch body without key tumbler and keys. Danchuk #119A includes the switch and tumbler with keys.
A few simple test, Test #1, when it just clicks, STOP, and put a temporary push button switch from battery ( + ) to " S " terminal on the starter and see if it cranks . If it cranks the battery, cables, and starter are fine. Test #2, try the key switch again, if it doesn't crank, put the push button wires on the START terminal of the key switch and POSITIVE terminal of the battery. If it starts, the wires from switch to starter are good. Test #3, Voltage test Power terminal at key switch to ground. Test #4, Voltage test START terminal at KEY switch to ground while cranking engine. First two tests determines where the problem is, second two tells you what the problem is.
The fact that it only started with the charger (even with new stronger battery) makes it look like a resistance issue to me, check all grounds, particularly the starter, is it bolted to the engine or the bell, GOOD path to ground?
Another vote for low voltage to the solenoid from the S terminal on the ignition switch, The solenoid pull in coil takes more power to pull and make a solid connection than one would think. Easy test, grab a piece of 12 or 14 gauge wire, with clips on it. When it won't start, use that wire to connect to the battery + and touch the S on the solenoid. If it works it will confirm the need for more power there. Some guys use a relay to connect the power to the s terminal and use the 'normal' wire to trigger the relay. Is really a common problem on cars/trucks/equipment. John Deere even has a kit to do that.
Since you've already replaced the negative cable and starter, make sure your other grounds are good, body to frame and engine to frame. I would then replace positive cable, if problem still persist then look at solenoid wire from key switch, then power wire to fuse box.
As stated above you need to check voltage to the wire going to starter from the switch it possibly has a voltage drop has a voltage drop through the key switch , neutral safety switch, fuse block or anything in line . Its not abnormal to get resistance in wiring or have to small of a wire going to the solenoid , resistance across the switches is common and all the connections. A remote starter right on the battery + and the S terminal on the starter will also show if its a wiring to the starter issue . IF you get low voltage to the solenoid then it will not pull in hard , If it doesn't pull in hard then the contact areas arc and burn and then it gets worse and worse and you get nothing but a clicky starter. you can wreck a solenoid's contact tips / surface pretty easy if its got poor voltage and a lazy engagement Id also hook a load tester directly to the battery cable at the starter and to the frame and load test the battery through all the cables . If the results / voltage drop are much more than when you're checking it at the battery you have a battery cable or cable connection issue. If you don't have a load tester, get one even a HF one works and there cheap these days , any car guy should have one . a abd connecto will give low voltage to the solenoid and the starter for cranking both
Do the testing that KenC said. I almost guarantee adding a relay as he suggested will fix it. Simply running a larger wire to the S terminal could very possibly fix it also.
@Dreamweaver All tri-5's have the Neg post from the battery direct to the engine block, then a secondary ground wire from the generator to the body [most alternator conversions lose this] All ground terminals need star washers under them [most of these go missing] Also the "S" wire from the ignition switch to the starter is marginal at best. [worse when hot] Try using another "Bypass wire" from the starter solenoid to flash on the battery to test this.
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