So my buddy picked this up a month or two ago; believe it's a 1950 8N. Those are everywhere around here for $800 (project) to $3,000 (nice runner). Anyway, he just bought a 10 acre piece of land out in the boonies (scrub/mesquite) and figured an inexpensive vintage tractor might be useful. He also has a plow, a disc harrow, and a shredder for it as well. It runs ok and it's been converted to 12V but it has several issues. The rear tires leak (tubes, right?) but they have decent rubber on them so we'll probably replace the tubes. Front tires are worn out so those will get swapped out. Axle seals appear to be leaking. Battery cables need replaced. Seat is kind of funky and falling apart. Figure we'll change all fluids (trans, rear diff, engine oil, coolant), give it a tune-up (plugs, cap & rotor, check timing, clean and set points), get the fuel filter off the exhaust manifold (!), and see about the brakes while we're at it. Anything else we should do, fiddle with, check, etc? Neither he nor I have ever wrenched on a tractor before, so any info is appreciated. Thanks, Scott
If either tractor will be used for mowing be sure to get an inline override clutch that slips on to the PTO shaft . Because the PTO will keep running after the clutch pedal is pushed down and the flywheel force of the blade will continue to move the tractor.
Good looking tractor. 1/2 flathead v8 They aren’t geared very low. So remember that when pulling things. Never hook a chain to it without an attachment. Kinda like a wheelie bar. In high gear that tractor will cruise
There are several vendors that specialize in old tractors. Do a search.... Peruse their printed material for sale and invest in owners and repair manuals.
My first tractor was an 8N also, I didn't keep it too long, Moving up to a Ford 2000 or 4000 and you have a super better tractor with live power so you don't need that clutch for the mower. JMO
Never had a tractor with a live PTO You just time things better. If bush hogging start to stop sooner. if the tractor can push it over it gets cut
I’d set the bush hog with the front down some. If I got in trouble I’d burry the front of the bush hog in the ground with the lift.
Steiner Tractor and Yesterday’s Tractor are both good sites to look for parts. You can almost build a 8N with just the replacement parts offered! For sure get that plastic filter away from the manifold. I used a piece of ready made brake line to make a new fuel line and routed it a little different. Make sure it has a good cut off valve inline so all your gas doesn’t leak out when it’s parked. I put a universal lawnmower style seat on mine and got rid of the butt pan, much better ride! Made an adapter bracket and kept the stock spring, your hips and tail bone will thank you! They are geared high, I generally use low gear for bush hogging, any more and it just knocks stuff down. I set mine like Anthony, lower in front, it helps keep the speed down, but you have to watch for large roots, stumps,and rocks, they can bring you to a sudden fast stop! I also learned if it starts spinning, it will dig itself in a hole in a hurry!
I started driving ours at 8 years old. Heed the warning about an over running clutch. Brakes are very hard to seal, most don't have brakes that work. NEVER put gas in the tank while engine is hot. A local did that , gas hit the hot manifold and blewy. Carpenter has almost any part you will ever need. There is a magazine called the N newsletter, got it for years. Hit some tractor shows and you will be thinking about a Funk or flathead V8 conversion.
I will second the suggestion of www.yesterdaystractor.com. Lots of good stuff there and an actual Ford discussion forum besides. Also......when replacing battery cables.....have some O or OO made up just in case you decide to go back to 6V system to straighten out 12V conversion problems. Have fun
Thanks for all the input. Any thoughts on dealing with a rusty fuel tank? It looks like reproductions are available, and if they're worth a damn, I'd be inclined to go that route. Otherwise, we can fill this tank up with gravel, shake it around a bunch, line it, and re-install. But that just seems to delay the inevitable, and you don't really want a rusty fuel tank springing a leak, especially when it sits on top of your engine...
I did the bolts and nuts cleaning in mine, then washed it out with soapy water, then washed it out with a gallon of acetone. I then used REDKOTE coating in it, you can get it at O’Reiley’s. It’s been in it probably 5 years or longer now, no problems with it flaking or peeling or leaking.
I have a '41 9N. Used extensively to clear snow on a few long driveways. Best thing I did was electronic ignition. There's no reason for that fuel filter...as there a 3 integrated into the fuel system. They are geared pretty low (6.66 if IIRC). Mine works like a champ. I'm preety happy to have it.
If it is kept outside cover the gear shift with an old boot or something so that rain water wont run down into the transmission.
The timing is probably fine, but if you need to check it, loosen that little teardrop-shaped piece of sheet metal which is just behind the exhaust on the bell housing. The timing marks are on the flywheel instead of at the front of the engine on an auto. They will probably be hard to see after 70 or 80 yrs. Al Hook
Still making progress on the tractor. Today we cleaned and set the points, changed plugs and plug wires, removed the old gas tank, and got the right side axle out and new axle seal installed. Question on compression -- on my gauge, I got cylinders 1, 2, and 3 at 120 psi, give or take a few psi. However, cylinder 4 was about 95 psi, and I don't like the fact that there's 20% difference from the other two. I put a teaspoon full of motor oil into the cylinder and checked again, and it hit 120. Based on that, I'm guessing it's rings, but it's not as straightforward as it would be on an overhead valve engine, right? If one of the valves is damaged and/or valve seat is compromised, the oil could help it seal up as well, couldn't it? Whatever the case, I suspect we'll run it as-is, but I'm wondering if it would make sense to pop the head off to take a look. Shouldn't be that difficult to do. Also, how difficult would it be to remove the cylinder head and oil pan to do a ball hone and re-ring job? I'm assuming this is something that's typically done with the engine in place, right? Thanks Scott
Here ya go, everything you need to know about Ford 8N tractors... Ford 8N, 9N 2N Online Service Manual - View it Now for FREE (newoldmanuals.com)
Some days the best thing you can do especially if the tractor has been sitting for a while is button it up and USE it......WORK it for a little bit. Maybe a good additive in the fuel and crankcase. Don't dig a big hole by going deeper and deeper into rebuilding unless really needed. Have fun
I rented an 8n to grade my yard at my first house 40 years ago, it was a fun tractor to drive. Since then I have wanted on with a v8 conversion.
If you're going to run a fuel filter get rid of the plastic and install a metal filter. You don't want to set your Ford or your field on fire. Always turn the gas valve off when you stop the engine. If you pull a disk or plow, never use the turning brakes, as this will break the rear end. If you put oil in the cylinder and the compression comes up, that indicates rings. You may have a stuck ring, but it will free up with use. Try a little Marvil Oil in the cylinder and add two ounces of it per 5 gallons of gas. Don't pull anything with a chain, as these tractors will rear easily, and don't run it on a hill side. Try to avoid bouncing the front wheels as this can bend spindles, I know it's fun, but don't do it. You have the late distributor there with no rpm tach in the dash, that means it's probably a 1951. The brakes on the 8N's are self energizing and work well when oil free. Like stated before, give yourself lots of room to stop when using a bush hog. One more thing, never start your tractor when not sitting in the seat, this ones important. Also the pan is the frame.....Have fun
After all the "Might as Wells," we're currently at this point on the tractor. My buddy is a lot like me -- his ratchets work extremely well counter-clockwise...
I've been using an 8N for the last few years with a 5' finishing mower to maintain about 5 acres. Generally its been pretty bulletproof. I had invested in the best set of points and condenser I could find (blue streak I think it was) but the condenser would still go out after about 6 operating hours. I was having to order them and they cost about $25 or $30 a pop IIRC. Switched to Pertronix ignition (which I'm not normally a fan of), and it has been very reliable ever since. The #4 spark plug stills fouls out ever so often but only about half as often as before, motor is tired and I think #4 hole has a bad ring. But it keeps on running and doing what it needs to do. Many of the off-shore replacement parts are (like carbs and distributors) are troublesome. Best to rebuild and service original ford parts if it all possible.
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