Projects My 31 cdan before, disaster, and rebuild.....lol... S$$$ happens...

so far, I never got the manifold, so just a scam I would say... too late to stop payment on my CC

 

I'd say put it up for sale for a price you can live with. If it goes, you got your answer. If not, hotrod it!

 

I bought a historic house in kanab utah, what I'm looking for is a complete 1920's tall T complete, doesn't need to run for yard art

 

also, I checked on the head, I was wrong.... the piston can stick out of the block .030... so good to go.... not expecting much gain,, but going for the look...

 

Man this threads new to me so I’ve a little more catching up to do but damn that’s a gorgeous set of headers!

 

thanks, MY youngest son did them for me...

 

what plugs do you run??? I put a FSI electronic centrifugal advance dist. on mine.... trry'n to get to the right plug...one thing I never learned was how to get to the correct heat range plug... still sorting out the drivability, but got her running pretty strong right now... but still needs final tuning...running a single stromberg 97 w/ 65 main jets.... gonna try a new set of plugs today,... the ones in it are black fuel fouled so not able to do any plug readings....running delco r45xl's right now... a few said to go to ngk's?????

 

so, like I post above... got her running with the new 7.1 aluminum head...... here's some pics...

 

also, been fighting a horrible oil leak.... runs 40 psi oil pressure,... the oil pump is adjustable so I turned it back to 20 psi,... we'll see if that slows it down... also, it has a k&n oil fill cap.... I was told that that puts too much pressure on the crankcase???? still leaks with it off????#$%%^&^^$#

 

running a FSI electronic dist... w/ plugs gapped @ 40

 

Where it leaking from? Front? Rear? Everywhere?

 

rear....when I got the motor, I pulled the pan.... it was missing the rear main drain tube, so I pulled the pan again and installed it.... that was supposed to be the fix.....not!

 

I run NGK plugs on every engine I build - flatheads, overheads, blown, unblown . . . etc.. BTW, you can't just drive a car and pull back in the driveway and look at your plugs - that doesn't tell you anything. You have to load test on the road (under power), put the clutch in, kill the engine and check the plugs.

One issue is that modern fuels don't "color the plugs" like in the old days - the fuels are too clean. I tend to use an O2 meter in the exhaust - to check my AFRs first, then work with my carbs for correct air/fuel ratios, then work on my plugs. I would try an NGK plug with an NGK '6' heat range - should work just fine for your setup.

 

also, on the dist.... it pulls 16-18 degrees advance @ 2 rpms... I would think total to be @ 28 degrees????more or less????

 

I'd setup the distributor for a total of about 24 degrees total advance at 2000 rpm. You can try a bit more, but get it to 24 first. How much mechanical advance is in the distributor? How much static advance are you running?

 

thanks a million for the reply, I know about reading plugs,drag raced for years,.. my mention was that the plugs are fuel fouled, and I was gonna get a new set for testing... there's maybe a 1/8th inch burn on the strap.... so not enought advance??? anyway.. my plan was to get the plugs in and take 4 or so extra and go out on the back road and do a plug test... but at this point, don't think I'm even close, and probley should start with a leak down....anothe thing I'm doing today is make sure the sediment bowl is not pluged....

and again, thanks,.... sorry to sound like one of my employee's...say'n I know I know till you don't say anything, then they say, I didn't know....

I know I need fuel compression and spark to run, right now it has pretty good throttle response,.... and runs down the road real strong..... little hard starting,... but I thing I have a week battery,... so I ordered a optima w/ 800 cold cranking amps...

so here's my order of attack... drain fuel from the line to make sure it flows fastenough.... do a leak down,... put new plugs in, go do a few plug reading runs..... did I miss anything???? also, I have a back to zero snap on timing light so I can see total timing (I have the nurex timing degree on the motor)

 

I have had fuel fouling issues with Champion spark plugs too many times - even with a hi-amp ProMag sending in the spark. I've had really good luck with NGKs. I don't know your head (and plug thread depth) - so I can't tell you which plug to run - but just get a #6 heat range and you should be fine.

I would also ensure that you're getting enough advance - having it where it needs to be can make a huge difference in overall performance as well as engine temperatures. Once you have the advance correct and the NGK plugs, then you can road test. I highly recommend a good O2 meter - they really help in tuning with today's fuels. Just put a sensor bung in BOTH of your headers - and use one of them to tune (then validate with the other).

You'll find that the Stombergs tend to run a bit rich under full load (when the power-valve is open) - usually in the low 12's on the AFR (which is fine). Make sure the float level is correct before you do anything. You can pull the top-off and check it while running - just be VERY careful with that fuel being exposed! They are super simple carbs and don't have many circuits to tune - off idle, all you have to work with are the main jets and the power-valve (which is strictly mechanical).

 

the head I got needs extended plugs, 14mm the plugs I was running are r45 xls delco... so I was gonna cross to NGK...what number is the heat range on ngk plugs??

 

Are you talking about 3/4" reach plugs? If so, you have a wide range to choose from. Just get the correct thread length, non-projected tip and NGK #6 heat range. I always run non-resistor:

If your head is setup for 3/4" reach plugs, then checkout NGK B6ES - and just make sure it clears your valves.

 

so I went and got some plugs,... the nkg number that crossed from the delco, on the box,... gr4 2635.. on the plug Gr4. I asume thats a 4 heat range???

 

that and, how would i know if it's too hot of a plug????

 

the next thing,... I've run into thios years ago, so I always start here...motor was lean poping,.... so bigger jets... but come to find out it was starving for fuel from the tank....so I wanna take the sediment bowl out and make sure it isn't plugged partial... still have the cowl tank, and no fuel pump....

 

also... would the one step hotter make it start easier and warm up quicker???

the plugs are v power plugs....good or bad????

and thanks for all the help....

oh, and its a 1932 "B" banger motor...

 

Well, that is a resistor plug (the "r" specifies this) - which I don't normally run on vintage cars - as the resistance will weaken the spark. Heat range 4 is quite hot - you'll just have to see if the porcelain looks too hot and if you have any detonation issues. Also, I assume the projected tip won't get hit by your valves? You'll know soon enough!

If you can't run a projected tip (or it gets too hot), think about a NGK B6ES plug.

 

That down loop in your fuel line and gravity with a down draft carb don't work. You need one of these.
Warren

 

thanks again, there's no valve under the plug,... and the nkg i got is pretty much a match to the ac delco45... the 4 is one step hotter than the 5 ac, the nkg has a little smaller porcelain.... where i'm at I think it needs a little hotter plug as it's very cold blooded and takes awhile to be able to gas it with out shuting down.... also could be too rich with the 7.1 head????

 

guess I need to start over, changed too much stuff all at once,.. head, dist, and carb...

 

also, to add to it.... the block is bored 125 over.....

 

I did that so going up grades it wouldn't starve for fuel and have a siphon effect...NO?????

also is that 6 volt.... that and does it matter on 6v if it's positive ground???