Technical Shortened 32 rolling chassis for a model A

Hello guys. Curious if anyone has any recommendations as to who could make a 32 rolling ch***is for a Model A that is shortened to the stock Model A wheel base? Anyone out there come to mind or does anyone reading this have the skills?

 

What's wrong with a beefed up Model A ch***is?

 

Those are cool too, however the 32 ch***is has a certain aesthetic and heritage to it. Hoping someone out there may be willing to build one to these specs.

 

Why do that? You'd have to either:
(a) cut 3" out of the middle of the '32 frame and splice it back together or...
(b) move the '32 frame's front crossmember back 3".

 

I thought the whole idea was the stylish frame with the longer wheelbase. The visual heightening of the body on the 32 rails would overall I think start to look a bit stubby if the wheelbase was shortened.

Chris

 

I think you'd be better off using the '32 wheelbase and getting/making a longer hood. Engine space is tight in a Model A. YOMV

 

Well, so far everyone has told the OP why his idea is flawed rather than suggesting ways or people who will make his idea possible. No, I don't have help to offer or have personal experience with people who might be able to help either, but I don't see the need to poo-poo his idea.

Lynn

 

Fine, here you go. No endor*****t of the craftspeople.
https://rjays.com/shop/ols/products...mplete-rolling-ch***is-rj-a32r?olsFocus=false

Can we go back to questioning the concept now?

 

FWIW I got 32.700,000 hits in 0.25 second on the first Google search.

 

You should contact @thunderbirdesq . Andy isn't all that far from you. He can build a ch***is and so he can likely modify one for length and pinch it while you're at it.

 

Any reputable hot rod shop that sells 32 Ford frame rails can slide the front x member back a few inches. If you are going to build the car yourself from pieces you can do it yourself, measure twice, cut once is the rule I try to follow. If you are not sold on your welding and fabrication skills, seek help for safety sake. Fenderless model a bodies on 32 ch***is look *****in, but when you put a full hood on one it does look funny with a longer hood(imho).

 

I think, as alot of others do.. you misunderstood the concept... the reason to put a 32 ch***is under a model A if cause you want a fenderless hi boy.... and pretty sure all the hits you got was for that reason,... I owned " las vegas street rods"... we did it all the time...all you need to do is box the A frame and it will be more than enough...but, maybe that whats you are doing????? I for one, and sure others probley just need more info to under stand why??????nothing to gain for all the work

 

''-Stamped 32 Frame Rails Pinched for Model A body''

-Stamped 32 Frame Rails Pinched for Model A body
-Tubular 8-Point X-Member
-Mounting Holes Have Welded Thread Nuts
-Choose Tube or I-Beam 4" Drop Front Axle
-Front 4-Bar or Hairpins
-Posie's 7-Leaf Front Spring
-Front Rod Shocks
-Vega Box Steering
-Basic GM Front Disc Brakes (standard)
-5 on 4-1/2" or 5 on 4-3/4" Bolt Pattern
-Choose Chevy or Ford Motor & Trans Mounts
-Dual Master Cylinder and Brake Pedal
-Frame C-Notched in rear for Clearance
-Rjays rear Ladder Bars (standard on all ch***is)
-9" Ford Rear / 11" Brakes with open Third Member
-Aldan Viper Coil-Overs or Posies Buggy Spring
-Front and Rear Panhard Bars


soooo..... are you gonna run fenders and a hood????


there's a wealth of knowledge here... and a even greater amount that are willing to help...

 

this is where I would start..... JMHO


Speedway 1928-31 Ford Model A Street Rod Frame ***embly (speedwaymotors.com)

 

One of the primary reasons a shorter frame is desired is to accomplish a particular look. Sometimes a Model A on standard length 32 rails with an extended hood can look a bit "nosey" and the stubby appearance can look a bit tougher. Hotrods are partially a form of artistic expression. With that in mind, crafting a machine that appeals visually to the end user is imperative. The goal would be to run no fenders, and a STOCK length Model A hood. Furthermore, I believe numerous builders creating Model A's on 32 rails have utilized shorter rails, resulting in a similar appearance as I previously elucidated.

 

He want's a 32 frame.

 

This can be done.

That total is about 3-inches. This can be a tricky cut on a frame with pinched and tapered rails.

I would see about having one made up with the rails pinched, and front crossmember moved back, followed by reworking the frame horns to blend back in. Past the crossmember they are largely just cosmetic.

This would take away the extra space that you get from the extended wheelbase, so be aware that this would require that the firewall be reworked more, likely puting the engine where your feet need to be.

This is why others have mentioned it.

 

@Hotrodmeister look at the Pete & Jakes catalog.

https://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/part-3131-1932-ch***is-for-model-a-body-economy/

There are others as well.

 

There's a thread on here by hot rod primer about model a roadsters on deuce rails. Study it be fore you do something you may regret.

 

I started to do this but got side tracked on another project. Removed 2 1/2 inches where C clamp is, frame height matches then. This moves hump in frame over rear axle. This allowed wheel well to be centered with the tire and still run a stock hood.

 

This is interesting, thank you for sharing. How does this modification impact engine fitment. I imagine there would still be adequate room for a flathead or sbc

 

That way you won't need to move the firewall back 3-4 inches to get a V8 to fit.

 

I'm running a Model B so engine room is not affected.

 

questions ???? will you have to cut the floor where the hump in the frame is,???? also , was your plan to run a 32 fuel tank???,,, also,... won't you still have to run a longer than model A hood??? and are you gonna run a buggy spring in the rear??

 

Plan is stock A fuel tank. Frame hump runs between subrails and quarter panels. Will use A rear crossmember. Once body position is determined rear frame will be trimmed and floor modified to cover crossmember. Still in the planning stage as another project came along.

 

@flthd31 has a sweet 30/31 A coupe on deuce rails (he built the rails from scratch) with a 103.5 inch Model A wheelbase and I think it looks awesome. I personally don't have the time, patients or talent to build frame rails from scratch, but if I was going to shorten a deuce frame (106 inch wheelbase) to a Model A wheelbase (103.5), I'd start with a pair of aftermarket deuce rails and cut the 2.5 inches out of the straight part of the frame at the reveal where the running boards reside. Moving the front crossmember back would result in the front of the frame looking too thick.

Here's his build thread with lots of pics of the frame construction and pics of the finished car:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tech-build-your-own-32-frame-rails.299105/

 

Because that's what people on here like to do.

 

"B" bangers are cool and make plenty of power with a few mods, back in the day, like 50 yrs ago, I used to take metal wheel barrows and cut them into the fire wall to make it recessed to fit small blocks... the reason everybody put chevys instead of fords, the chevys are about 3'' shorter than fords.... running 289 fords had to recess the fire wall... mine still runs the cowl tank.... like to make that go away,one engine fire is enough for me...

 

Not sure where in Virginia you live, but these guys could build a deuce frame to your specifications:

Jack Fuller or @jackandeuces in Hampton, VA
Dan Urbanski or @ClutchDumpinDan in Fredericksburg, VA
Ben Kopp or @koppy in Yorktown, VA