I have a 2022 F250 Super Duty with the 7.3, 10R transmission and 4.30 gears. I pull my camper and do other truck things with it. It's an awesome engine. Gets about 13 mpg's unloaded (17-18 on long highway runs) and 9ish at 72mph towing my 6000lb camper. I can maintain 70+ going through any East coast hills, with the camper in tow, and pass anything I want in the hills or on the flats. Good thing it has a 30 gallon fuel tank. Ford Racing sells an engine control system for automatic or manual. They use the same bell housing as the 5.0 DOHC. But all that's pretty off topic for the HAMB I'd run one in anything it'll fit in.
My 1999 K2500 suburban with the 454 and 4.10 gear at 2,500 RPM pulling the race car never kicks out of overdrive pulling the hill on highway 44 pulling to Mo-Kan. It's a 10 to 12 mpg ride. It has a 46 gallon tank.
They are prone to cracking on #2 and #4 cam bearings where the spider plate bolts to it. Loctite a stud into these holes and loctite these two cam bearings and the block will outlive us. My choice of shop truck engine is a lazy 351 roller engine with an AOD behind it.[preferably a cheap 393" stroker that uses stock rods and 302 pistons ] Use a cast iron 4v manifold or painted alloy dual plane. early heads with guide plates and early 289 rocker covers [or convert late heads to guide plates] Cam it to be a stump puller down low and feed it with a 500 cfm carb, and points triggered MSD 6 Cast exhaust manifolds and a big fat single exhaust so it has that old 272 Y block burble You want to cruise the freeway with the AOD in 4th and your foot barely on the gas
I had a guy offer a 460 with DOVE heads to me for $2500 today. Says it has 6k miles on it. 1971 casting. From memory, all 460’s from that era averaged about 6 mpg.
6 mpg sure...but no payments and minimal depreciation seems downright affordable in the big scheme of things. Big tank and an even bigger grin on your face (till you fill up anyways). How many miles a year do you plan on putting on this thing a year? What does it add up to annually fuel wise? How about a roots blower and some corn juice? Not sure about availability down by you, but in MN it's everywhere and cheap. Mileage will even worse, but might even out with more power and fun. Besides large displacement causing poor economy, is there anything that gives a ford / chevy / dodge / caddy (insert your favorite brand here) big block an advantage economy wise over the other offerings? Bore to stroke ratio, port size / velocity, valve size and angle, chamber design, etc. Efficient production of your max needed torque / power mated to an efficient transmission and rear end (not a C6 + 9" combo) would be the way to go in my book. Having way more engine than you need running along with the throttle plates closed, no port velocity and the ignition way advanced can only get you so far efficiency wise. Too many things fighting each other.
Didn't the later ones have the cam timing retarded that killed performance and mileage? Not sure what year that started.
I'm not much of a Ford guy so had to research. That engine was rated at 485 ft. lbs.(gross). I'd think you could get it mid-500s easy enough with proper component selection. It wouldn't have a carburetor if it were mine. Betting low-mid teens empty would be doable with one of them new fangled FI thingies. Looks like you can get a stand alone AOD for it. Or a C6 with a Gear Vendors. Tremec was all I saw for an OD manual that would take the power. I'd still be looking for a GM 2500 cargo van, but the advantage of the 460 is that you wouldn't be ashamed to open the hood in front of people.
I have a 1973 Lincoln Continental that I put C9VE headed 460 engine in (same as a D0VE), it was originally was a lower compression d3VE headed 460 with egr ports. I have had that car since I was a teenager (I am 45 now) and it has done everything from towing 1950s cars to bracket racing to being an off roader and even being a daily commuter for 6 or 7 years when I was in my twenties. It has a 2.77 rear gear, a c6 (with a shift kit) and obviously the 460, the heads were ported by me, its got dual 2.5" straight piped full length exhaust on cast iron mid 1970s manifolds (i got headers for it I am just to lazy to install them and then deal with the leaks that headers tend to have), it has one of those generic cams that they call a "stage 2" on rock auto and a 1411 750cfm Edelbrock carb. To put it mildly that engine is Stout it's not race car fast but it is definitely potent and spry for what it is. The engine bone stock made 365 horsepower and 500 ft lb of torque I would imagine I'm in the 450 range and who knows on the torque but it will fry a 235 75 15 radial like it isn't there. Also for the record since everybody is talking about flat tablets and being scared of them, I have never used any special oil in it or anything like that it just gets Walmart brand full synthetic oil. it gives 8.5mpg in heavy So. Cal traffic, on the highway going to Phoenix or vegas it is a solid 16mpg mind you, it could really use an overdrive, it's not really screaming at 75 but it could definitely be lower in RPM at modern highway speeds and the exhaust note while fun gets annoying on a 300 mile drive. In all reality it's gas mileage isn't that bad considering it is a 460 C6 and a corporate 9⅜-inch axle in a 5500lb sedan. It has been such a good drivetrain I would recommend it for anyone for a mild use pickup... I would imagine a zf5 speed would probably give you about 19 on the open highway at 70 miles an hour in a lightweight mid 1950s f100 or f200, around town it's displacement is what's going to kill your gas mileage that goes with any larger engine... I would think a 3.54 gear set with a overdrive transmission the thing would be an awesome tow rig in especially in a 1955ish f250.
1973 the cam gets moved I believe it's three degrees... You can't just put a 1970 timing set on a later cam as it runs poorly. I would imagine the emissions cam is ground different but I never actually measured anything and it's been 23 years since I did this experiment so pardon me if I'm not 100% right I was probably 22 years old but just putting an early timing set on it probably made it run slightly worse although it was so negligible most wouldn't notice it. The best thing you can do to a 460 V8 is change the cam to a RV or mild performance cam for torque (camshafts are cheap on RockAuto and eBay just look at a 1970 Lincoln if you're on RockAuto). If you open up the exhaust because from the factory there is no such thing as a good breathing 460 ford vehicle you will notice a lot more higher rpm HP If you go to a 1969 or 1970 casting head (c9ve or d0ve casting) you will get a higher compression head that on a bone stock 1970s 460 or 429 will give you 10.5;1 compression... The head swap without porting is worth about 100 horsepower. If you block off the EGR tube it's 120 (a 1970 non California emissions 460 will give you 365 horsepower in 1973 is 245...). The only bad thing with the early head swap is you will have to run premium fuel because the engine will definitely ping on 90° plus days running cheap fuel especially the modern ethanol blended garbage that we have.
I have chevy v8s in most of my trucks and there is a place in the hills where a heavy load means second gear and pray. My truck with the 460 doesnt even notice the same place. No gearing down, no praying
So here is the back story on this engine. The guy that offered it up was an old guy that inherited the engine from a good friend that passed. He said it had a Schneider cam in it and an air gap manifold. He said that it had 6K miles on it when the car was totaled by a massive hail storm. I don't know how long this engine has been sitting. The guy I was chatting with is a Ford guy through and through and he has a lot of nice cars, so I would imagine this 460 is probably a nice piece.
EPA milage for a 75 Lincoln with a 460 were 10mpg city and 15mpg freeway, I would imagine you will do better with a manual trans. Besides the other modern engine was 10 grand and this one is 2500? you can buy a LOT of gas for 7500 bucks, something like 4000 gallons meaning you can fill it up every 2 weeks for 8 years.....
So, I do factor that all in. I'm a little concerned with the state of the engine. If it were a $500 price tag I would probably roll the dice. I may run by and take a look and see how clean the exterior is. That's usually a good indicator.
do you have one of those endoscope cameras to look in the cylinders? https://www.amazon.com/Endoscope-Ca...0d8631f3e93bc0554e2f4c878e1&gad_source=1&th=1
Sorry folks. Communication problems this morning. This is a basically stock 472 Cad. In my old truck. Very reliable in all seasons and no cooling issues. Pulled my teardrop to Dewey and Louisville numerous times. Sold it to buy back a past truck. Current owner pulled the Cad and replaced with a small block Chev.
I've had several over the years. Wouldn't be without one. Amazon is your deal. Several to choose from in the $50.oo price range. I've had this one about 4 years, they just keep getting better.
One of the first things you do is install a 68-71 straight up timing set. The 72 and later 460’s timing sets were retarded 4 crankshaft degrees or 8 camshaft degrees. Easy way to pickup more torque and a slight hp increase. The 71 460 engine I believe had 12cc dish pistons, so that would put you around 10.5/1 cr or a premium fuel engine with iron heads.
I bought this one. $23 and on your porch tomorrow. Works wth any smart phone. Color, leds lights with dimmer, camera button on the dimmer switch, really long cord and a bunch of attachments. Works great.
I bought a borescope for inspecting our turbine engines. It was roughly 100K. Of course it could take pics and email them. It's amazing how cheap these have become. I will be buying one. The $32 one not the 100K.
My 67 C30 flatbed dually has the original 292 straight six with granny tranny. It purrs like a kitten and pulls like a horse. It's a keeper.
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