Projects 1961 Chrysler basket case, mild custom

I'm happy with the sheet metal and will be figuring out how to pin it so I can maybe put it back where it is now.

In other news when it was shipped out here, the idiot shipper put a strap over the fins and crushed them. Any thoughts on the best way to work this out? Maybe a long pick? It''s not terribly accessible.

 

My dad's 65 GMC had a dent in the very top of the tailgate, straight down. I ground the paint off, welded a pull tab to it pointing straight up, then hooked my engine crane up to it and lifted it. Once I had significant weight on it I tapped around on the outside of the dent until it moved back into place. Took several tries, but that tailgate top roll is thick and the dent was hard. I think you could lift that dent out of there and tap the "high" spots down with some tension on it pretty easily.

Big slide hammers are a bitch to use vertically. The engine crane is one of my favorite dent pullers.

 

When you say pull tab, like from a stud welder or something you fabbed up?

I have a hoist.

 

@Squablow that is brilliant!
Weld a piece of plate steel to the top of the quarter shaped like an upside down U and hook up the hoist. Fantastic!

 

We use brass or silicon bronze when we weld sweat plates (pulling tabs)
Seems like it is less likely to tear the metal

 

I used one of those lifting loops like what you bolt onto an engine, not sure what they're called, some engines still had them on at the factory. Like a big, oblong washer kinda with an oval hole to put a hook through. Lift bracket? One big chain link would probably work too, or the hook off of an old ratchet strap or something.

If you've got access to brazing stuff, I like @anthony myrick 's idea of brazing on whatever you're using to pull with. I did end up tearing a hole in the tailgate top pulling on it. Was no big deal to weld it back up again, but would be nice to avoid it.

 

I’ve also used dent puller studs.
Then clamped them to pull several at a time.

 

Here’s a few body shop methods

washers can be tack welded along a crease and a hook tool in a slide hammer is common
Welding 18-16 gauge metal to the crease then using common frame pulling clamps
You can probably drill a hole in the 16 gauge to use a hook if no clamps are available.

 

“In other news when it was shipped out here, the idiot shipper put a strap over the fins and crushed them. Any thoughts on the best way to work this out? Maybe a long pick? It''s not terribly accessible.”

What kind of transporter does this??? Did he think he was hauling a backhoe?

 

For stuff like that I just a stud gun

 

My suggestion would be to first join a club and then hit the delivery driver over the head with it. Repeatedly.

 

The engine hoist idea and welding a bracket seems like an easy way to fix that....Damn transporter damaged my newly installed front brake line on the tow upstate..

 

Good Morning Al, hope you are well.

You have to remember (unfortunately) my industry is full of clueless hacks & criminals.
Just like everywhere else that it matters.....You get what you pay for!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Yeah, call his insurance company.

 

This was years ago and I was too...out of it to do much of anything. It was right after a cross country move with two toddlers, and I was barely functional.

And it's proof I've gotten older-I did not end up in the newspaper over it. I did consider the option, though.

I'm picking up a stud gun. I'll go from there.

 

I probably would have ended up in the newspaper.

 

A video of the three other doors and the body lines. I think this may be as good as it gets. Honestly, she's never looked better.



I dislike this rocker panel-fender gap. Possibly the trim would cover it, but I never had rocker trim, and I think it'd make it a bit busy.



What would y'all do here?

 

If literally everything else has good alignment and gaps, and this lower front fender to rocker gap was the only issue left, I'd bend up a piece of 1/8" or so round rod and weld it to the back edge of the front fender to close up that gap. Grind to shape, nobody needs to be the wiser.

Perfect panel alignment and gaps is a noble goal, but at some point, you've got to get shit as close as it's going to get, and just fill in or cut out the bad spots. If that's the only spot you have to do, I'd say you're in good shape.

 

I’d be more worried about the hole in the door.

 

Definitely fix the door before the fender/rocker/door gap.
Personally, I would let it be, they were always outta whack there when new.

 

I owned my marauder over 25 years when previous owner told that the other rear fender lip is different shape because he did it himself.
I never notice it before...
And yes, they are over 1/2 inch different between left and right.

 

Do a few sheet metal and overpaint jobs and you will get "sick eyes" youl notice every little flaws gaps runs orange peels etc which you normally wouldnt notice.

 

There is a reason the gap is big. Them cars flex a lot.

 

Wow, I‘ve just found this thread and all I can say is this must be one of the most dedicated and insane builds on here! My hat‘s off to you ! I‘m sure your dad is smiling up there!

 

@safetythird I would add a chunk to the rocker, weld it in, and blend. I had to do that on the Chevy when I welded in a new outer rocker 3/4 of an inch too far back. Many swear words first then I figured I could add a little piece to the front of the rocker instead of cutting it all out. Don't tell anyone it's a secret

 

I have an old Lenco panel spotter, but you can use a mig I suppose. Weld 7/16 washers on end in the low spots, & pull out w/ a slide hammer w/ a hook on the end of it. Twist the washer to break it off the panel. Been doing it this way since the '80s.

 

Pulled most of it out with a stud gun and a slide hammer, then some lead free lead.

Needs a bit more love, but better.

 

Cleaned it up a bit.

Bill Hines I ain't.



I doubt I can get lead in those voids without ruining the rest of it.

 

Maybe something should go behind the patch panel to prevent rust?





And this should probably get filled before the rear wheel throws no end of molten rubber from the impressive burnouts one can do with an open 2.76 ratio diff.



Or maybe just road debris.

I'm going full time on the body for a bit, if it's not obvious.

Current plan is to lower the beast and shave the door handles. I haven't decided on the trim yet. I'm open to suggestions.

 

Someone put tail lights from a '60 in place of the back up lights.

I think I might love it.

Anyone know if they interchange?