Technical ***February 2024 Banger Meet Thread - Happy Groundhog's Day***

Did those rims work with the AR drums?
Warren

 

I may be turning 26 next week, but my birthday surprise came early! Originally I only had the raw casting for this Kong front distributor drive, but I ended up finding this completed one.

I still don’t have everything to get it running, but found a photo of this wicked Model D featuring one of them. It looks like the Kong distributor in the Cragar head photo shares the same cap design as mine?

Coincidentally I heard that a “Jim Lattin” also runs one of these front drives. Does anyone have his email? If so, please Pm me!

 

Might be a long distance call
Jim passed away a year or so ago

J

 

Warren - I don't think so. The edge of the rim makes contact on the drum well before the hub nut area. No matter - the early or "AR" drums are coming off the car. There is a Ford Service Bulletin describing this.

 

Correction, it was Bill Lattin. It appears my brain was on autopilot last night!

 

Try the contacts list on the scta website

j

 

I'm about ready to start fabbing a dual carb intake for the '28 Chevy head I'm hoping to install soon.

For these low-revving motors, are there any considerations as far as intake runner length, or does it not matter one way or another? Anything to be gained by longer runners than you'd usually see on a standard, aftermarket-style cast intake?

 

Does this help?

 

I know very little about runner length effects, apart from long ones would move the carbs further away from the head and into colder air, my fabbed intake on my Chevy banger wouldn't work at all well until I added heat.

The Chevy intake is on the other side from the exhaust, the chilling from the carbs might mean even an ally one's not likely to get even warm on it's own, and be in danger of icing like mine did before heat was added.

Unlike a Ford intake that might be fixed to the exhaust runners or just snuggled up close to them.

I think the Burns one posted by Dan might be about right.

 

I guess it all depends on how pretty you want it or what you value the intake at. I would put a compression fitting in the header with a 3/8 copper line running in one end of the intake and out the other or wrap it around the plenum several times and back to a second compression fitting in the header. The nearer the exhaust port the better. This is how I heated the intake on My Chev 235 inline 6.
I have another question, I have access to a 1927 Chev head, are they the same?
Warren

 

Build it so the proportions look good to you or look vintage and run it. None of this stuff is going to make us wealthy at the finish line, so enjoy it your way and smile! Take suggestions along the way if it fits your agenda and makes technical sense. Just a little trick- concave freeze plugs or the right size or even cup type core plugs are a great way to terminate a log manifold at the ends and gives things a bit of character.

 

I have played with stack length some
It has not made any noticeable difference
I can see in a smaller manifold but as Dan mentioned it will probably not make much impact
I don’t run multiple carbs on street cars a single 97 or 94 will support 100 hp pretty well
But that said I think that Yapp has a dual manifold that should be a little better than the manifolds that separate the carbs by distance of the ports
It has the carbs closer together in center and gives a little more runner length
J

 

Little bit of elbow grease.

 

That is a great detail note Dan. Thank you for sharing.

 

Appreciate all the input! I will incorporate some heating element into it, either from the water outlet (which would probably look a little neater) or exhaust gas.

Dan, great call on the freeze plugs... I was looking at the intake on the new Dan Webb car and noticed the log intake on it and thought I might try to copy it. Those plugs should do the trick....

 

I found these at Lowe’s to use as intake manifold end caps. Aluminum fence post caps.
Come in several sizes.

 

You don't need much water flow, mine is taken from below the thermostat and has a 3mm restrictor at the start of hose line, and the return line still runs out very hot.
So for neatness small copper brake line and fittings would probably work, and look better than my rubber hose.

 

Not sure you see too many of these

 

The purpose of the restrictor is that the return hose goes to the bottom rad hose as that's the only way I can see to get a pressure difference to make the flow. Because my cooling is ok at speed but not really adequate when moving slow, I added a small cooler in line to try and stop adding heat to the bottom hose and maybe help the cooling.
This didn't work, hence the restrictor, still a work in progress.

 

Hi , I made one but you must be aware that it is not a true arc so it has a sliding joint -picture for reference

 

I`m still here , just installed an FSI dizzy for a bit more power -here`s hoping for 75mph on Pendine sands this year ( oh and I have lost 5kg over the past 2 months so that should help

 

I used that picture that Airborne 34 posted and made one vey similar except with pivot balls. I'm just waiting for my 2nd 97 to show up. I appreciate everyone's input.
Thanks
Warren

 

Those are cool, you should post them over on the “B- Side Cover”. Thread

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/b-side-cover.979482/#post-15002779

 

Just wondering what you guys think about the Burtz combustion shape/design vs other options?

 

Nice opportunity to get quench, spark, plug location, over the top of the exhaust valve for maximum concentration of heat for combustion, I'm assuming that little dimple in the middle of the combustion chamber has something to do with laminar flow. Not crazy about the spark plug pocket. Looks like it needs some polishing.

 

With the spark plug pocket it's very similar to a 14.9 head. It's not ideal but it's to keep it looking stock on the outside.

I've been trying one. I used plug adaptors and extended nose 14mm plugs to get the fire down the hole. And y'know what? It's not too bad at all. Feels plenty tourquey...

 

That's good feedback, I'll be chassing a higher comp head at some point, but not necessarily chassing 'stock' looking. Having said that these are available down here.

Phil, have you done the comp Calculations?
A friend bought a '6.5:1' stock looking head from a local early Ford parts supplier & when he worked out the numbers it came in at 7.3:1 - not sure on pistons/stroke he has...

 

They cast a few of these for one of their club anniversaries. It was on the engine I'm rebuilding for my coupe when they blew away the record at Garidner Lake Australia. - https://www.dlra.org.au/2001.htm
Chuck Sharpe #273 1924 Ford Roadster V4/GMR speed 122.050 old record 64.379

https://www.foureverfour.com/history/

 

A fellow model T enthusiast came by, got to do some mock up. Also started having an experience with the hammer and dolly. When the body was as bent as a Chicago politician, even a minor bit of learning helps. Thinking 6" in the center to start.

 

Nope - complete charlatan. Slapped it on just as it came. Wanted to see what the complete Burtz kit runs like. Apart from a bit of porting...
I used the recommended Egge pistons, so stock bore and stroke.