Projects Traditional Banger Build

I'm not a expert, but i think that the shackle angle is not correct with your shorter main leaf. The original looked better. And remember that model A axle has perch boss higher than I beam and 32 has the boss even ground into the I beam. Not much difference, but some any way, around 1/8". I would try the original main leaf with spacer on top of the axle, or have a local spring shop made you a main leaf with lenght between those two you have now.

But as i said, i'm not expert, just my thoughts...

 

Thanks Lattahattu - I realized this morning that the pic I posted is a bit confusing as the axle is hanging loose - will snap a pic with full weight on the front end when I next head to the garage - I checked it post-install and there seemed to be good clearance (and decent shackle angles)

 

Here is a pic of the front suspension under load - plenty of clearance now.
Also started work on breaking down the rear brakes

 

Now the front end looks perfect! I did not notice that there were no load on axle in earlier photo.

 

The front end turned out great, looks good with everything put together.
Does the new exhaust header interfere with the oil tube out of the valve cover? Did you mention where you got the header from in a previous post? Keep the updates coming!

 

Thanks Lattahattu - appreciate all the input.

Thanks ModelAMitch - the header is a Red's Header with the tag ground off - I had it ceramic coated locally. It does not interfere with the oil return tube, I checked the clearance and just decided to put another coat of paint on the oil return tube so assembly wound up a bit out of order - will reinstall it over the next couple of days.

 

Good looking project you got there. Needs a Miller conversion though. Hehe.

 

Chryslerfan55 - maybe some day…for now I would be happy just getting the brakes wrapped up, the rear end dropped and the police head, downdraft and Zipper distributor installed…

Made some progress tearing down the rear end and am planning to drop brake rods, radius rods and miscellaneous odds and ends off at the powder coater this week - also realized I didn’t have spark plug ends for wires and need to fab a new lower rod for the linkage to clear the header - reverse eye rear main leaf and new shackles are also on their way….

 

Got a little time in today. Managed to make progress painting rear brake parts, getting the fuel line in place to the carb and removing the spring from the rear axle without sending myself to the hospital…

 

Frustrating work over the past two days - while the passenger side rear perch bushing came out with a handful of hammer whacks, the drivers side was a whole different story altogether - it wouldn’t budge - tried the hacksaw and still wouldn’t move or even collapse on itself - wound up using a drill, chisels and punches to eventually break it out but it took WAY longer than was reasonable. Managed to remove and break down the rear spring before calling it quits for the weekend….

 

Just a heads up with regard to your spring assembly, assuming it was previously assembled incorrectly and you're unaware. The short "dummy" spacer leaf shown on the top of the spring should actually be placed under the bottom main leaf. The clamps should tighten up against it. It's sole purpose is to make the spring assembly the same thickness as other springs with 8 leaves (Coupe, etc.) allowing the same clamps to be used on both the 7 and 8 leaf springs. Assuming it is the correct original spacer it will be long enough for the clamps to bear on. Might want to verify length before final assembly.

Also the correct top spring leaf should have beveled edges to avoid binding in the crossmember.

Nice work so far, good luck.

-

 

Lamaison - thanks for the input - the advice is much appreciated. I had not realized that the roadster had a spacer in the spring pack - will move it to the bottom and am also planning to remove spring #2 and cut it down to also serve as a spacer (real spring #2 not as shown in the pic). The second spring in the photo does indeed have beveled edges.

 

Good project, looks great! And good luck in dealing with the spring

 

Thanks berijillel

Got a little done tonight - finished up the throttle linkage and started on front brake reassembly w the floaters.

 

Got the pedals rebushed and back in the car and front brake rods hooked back up - brakes worked fine but clutch pedal going to the floor and not returning - checked to see if pin was sheared but it was fine (that would have been too easy) then pulled off inspection cover and found a giant mess of weld on the pressure plate and old hardened grease everywhere - so looks like I am going to need to pull the gearbox off. While I am at it, am thinking I will take the rear end apart, powder coat everything and potentially change the gearing.

This brings up a few questions - what are people's thoughts on 39 gearbox (assuming I can find one) vs Mitchell synchro box (8-9 month waiting list)? What about 3.54 gearing? Anything else I should be thinking about while everything is apart?

 

I did a v8 trans upgrade on my last banger. I was running 3.27 gears in mine, it worked like a charm... Either gear 3.54 or 3.27 is a huge upgrade for top end driving. I was able to cruise 70s on the fwy with ease. But I had 100 hp B motor. I think with a Mild A motor 3.54 is where its at. Just remember you can get a bit more with some rubber also as tires can be the poor mans gear swap.

The trans update, I used a 34 trans, Clings adapter. It worked pretty well, Synchros were nice for sure, but end of the day the only thing I really liked was the 2-3 shift being more close range. Was it worth it? Eh, somewhat. If I wasn't building period correct stuff, I would have done the 5 speed on the stock gears and really cut down on the work and gains more drivability without gear swap.

I have owned a 39 trans and this 34 trans, drivability was about the same. So if you are going early v8 trans, then anything 32 and up top loader is where its at. You can also search for a 32 banger trans also.

If I had to build a banger again, and I will build a banger again, I would splurge on a Kiwi quick change, and a v8 trans.

 

I just removed the original springs and replaced them with Posies reversed eyes springs on my RPU. No where did I see the dummy plate on the bottom. I also just rebuilt an original 37 rear spring and the dummy plate had the center bolt swagged into it and was at the top. I appreciate if leaves are removed, the space for the spring clamps needs to be taken up and either spacers can be made or clamps with more meat used to accommodate can be used. The only time I would move that dummy leaf to the bottom would be if I wanted to lower the car 1/4"
Warren

 

Thanks stubbsrodandcustom - gives me some things to think about.

Warren - am planning to move a couple leaves to lower the car some (along with the reverse eye main) so the dummy plate is going to the bottom of the pack - original or not.

Managed to get the rear end out today - planning to pull the gearbox next and then start pulling things apart.

 

Does anyone make a mandrel bent header? These appear to use a muffler shop type bender that we used to refer to as a squish bender since it squished the tubing smaller.

 

Whose throttle linkage are you using?

 

'28 RPU - I am using a Burns Racing Equipment Linkage - had to modify the bottom lever to clear the header.

 

why go to a 32 axle? im looking to build a banger myself with lowering springs front an rear . 600s or 550s an 700s with 35 wires are epic.

 

super cool... im also looking to build a banger hot rod. also mechanical brakes.. but with lowering springs front an rear.

 

great stance... what leafs did you remove? im looking to buy rev eye drop springs. are you also running stock front axle?

 

are those the stock wheels and tires on it now?

 

curious why your swapping to a 32 axle? im new to banger builds an also looking to build mine in a similar traditional way.

 

very cool wheels...ive been looking everywhere for a nice set an cant seem to locate any.

 

why swap to a 32 axle? im curious as im looking to build a 30/31 A myself

 

very interesting... i also was looking into the ol yankee springs myself.. an i have heard too of the 2 different spring eye to eye lengths.. very possible that's the issue.

 

just curious of why you didn't return or go back to ol yankee for the spring fix instead of spending more money.