Technical Speedway Front Mount Bracket

Sorry not sure where to post this, anyone using the speedway front mount bracket that uses the rubber biscuits? They want the lower rubber bushing shoulder to sit in a 1” hole which centers the mount. Ive seen a post where the kept tearing away being as its only like a 1/8 high shoulder. I was thinking about just drilling a 7/16 hole that the mount bolt fits through and the bolt would then do the centering and weld a smaller washer inside the large washer that sits under the upper bushing so it centers on the bolts as well. So frame bracket would still be sandwiched by upper and lower rubbers but would be centered by the metal bolt. I think I may get very slightly more vibes this way which Im fine with but is the an unforeseen issue Im not thinking of?

Also has anyone run the bracket “backwards”, with mounts on the rearward side on bracket?

Thanks for any help!

 

The speedway mount I have seen seems to be missing a large bottom washer. When there is upward load from torque reaction the bottom rubber section should barrel out to form a larger load bearing section. Without that it would just pull through.

Also the mount should really have a large steel top cap that covers the entire mount but that seems to have evolved without it as well

 

I agree, I think my plan would eliminate these issues. By having the bolt doing the centering it gives the lower rubber a lot more surface area to prevent pull through as well

 

maybe go back to the original design?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdr-78-6038-k/make/ford/year/1948

 

Being in Canada getting these parts is expensive and takes forever so Id like to use what I have. This is what id end up with. Its only a 300hp application and i have no holes in frame bracket yet so can drill a 7/16 so through bolt is a close fit for centering. This is what id end up with, probably not quite as much dampening but damn close I imagine

 

this is another approach, if you can find some used washers from a 55-57 chevy car or 55-59 truck. The rubber parts used to be readily available in the normal parts stores. Maybe they aren't any more, though.

https://www.oerparts.com/product/tf700110.html

 

I have the full setup from speedway on the 350 in my 53 Bel Air. I have had no issues with it aside from having to go with an electric fuel pump. Haven't drag raced it or anything but it has had some hard throttle from a dead stop and the front mount held solid. I am also running it backwards for radiator hose clearance. One note on that is it will clear some sbc run backwards and some it won't. Nice clearance on my 76 350 with chrome pump block off plate and bolt. Meanwhile on the 57 283 I originally tried it on I had to remove the plate and bolts for fuel pump block off to be able to force it on. But anyway I've run that setup about a year now

 

Gold star drawing. I’m hanging this on the frig for everyone to see.

 

Hahaha

 

Im sure whatever way I decide to run this it will be fine and Im just over thinking it. I think Im gonna go with the approach of using the bolt to center it in the frame (7/16 hole) as it looks like that is what the chevy mounts pictured did (can tell by rubber hole vs bolt holes size)z

 

The chevy mount has a large hole in the frame, and the steel washer has a flange that fits in the large hole The outside of the rubber biscuit is centered by the outer flange on the washer.

You can do what you're planning, it will work good and last a long time, but it's not how motor mounts are made on production cars.

 

Don’t let the through bolt be rubbing on the frame’s hole. It will transmit vibration and eventually rub a groove in the bolt or the mount.

Ford had it right by isolating the bolt via ridged washers holding the rubber biscuits.

 

It's not optimum, but I ran solid mounts when I put the big block in my truck a long time ago, and it survived way longer than I thought it would. Here's the damage it did to the large hole in the frame.

 

I'll get pics of my setup when I get home. The reason I flipped it for radiator hose clearance is I'm running a short pump. Hose on long pump would likely clear no issue with intended orientation. Actually fit mounted normal with my pump but I didn't like how it pressed against the hose

 

Just make sure you insert the bolt from the top, not the bottom. If the nut vibrates off with the former, you're still in decent shape, but if the latter...

 

The nut has to go on top. Because of the stepped/ shouldered bolt it can only go that way. Thats the way it was designed

 

Thanks! Pictures would be greatly appreciated

 

Out of curiosity what kind of car is it going in?

 

I've often thought people missed this simplest of concepts, though, using a self locking nut will pretty much cover that issue, still, would be a near failsafe if something............
Failed!
Also, that original style mount that includes the larger shoulder bolt just shows the difference in sound design and Walmart pricing, which seems to be what drives peoples' buying decisions anymore.
Smacks of The Hoffman Group marketing structure.

 

So how many of speedways front mounts have you seen fail?

 

A 55 buick special gasser Im building

 

$300 for an engine mount by the time it gets to my door here in canada sure doesnt seem like walmart pricing! Wish I had an endless supply of money gotta make due with what I can afford

 

Doesn't take much searching to find lots of cases of the biscuits failing due to improper design.

 

Ah so not too far off from my 53 chevy

 

Quick Google search showed no results..... considering they've been selling them for decades if they were really failure prone a whole crap load of failure listings would pop up

 

Actually, the Speedway sourced biscuits I used did fail. After a year or so the top rubber puck kind of collapsed. It squished down so the hollow underside was down to the large cup washer. I put some large washers in where the hollow used to be to bring it back up to the designed height. It’s probably stiffer now than intended, but at least it doesn’t sag.

The biscuits produced by Chassis Engineering with the chrome ring around the outside are much better quality. I think Trans-Dapt might also sell the chrome ringed biscuits.

 

I actually torqued mine till the dome you're talking about was flat

 

Is it intended to flatten out? I think I read 20ftlbs somewhere

 

When you read the listing on their site they actually say there's no torque spec but to tighten till the rubber squishes.

 

So likely many of the failures people are talking about were user error