Technical Stroking 289 - Budget Build

That in a nutshell is correct! Found some with the CH 1.608 and after calculating I need to be 1.616 to be dead on.
Which may mean I might need to start off with some 64 cc heads and have them milled to make up the difference 0.008? Is this right?

 

Unique is one way putting I guess….but yes, a run of the mill 5.0 or 302 uses a 5.09 length rod. Far easier and cheaper to source these than the longer 5.15 B302 / 289 rod.

 

1.608 CH shelf 302 piston
1.50 half crank stroke
5.15 length 289 connecting rod
= 8.258.

You'll have to either machine or source custom pistons.$$$$$

 

Yea. I’m still stuck where the 289 is THE SBF, and the 302/5.0 is new fangled.

 

Don't forget to take into consideration head gasket thickness, piston-to-valve clearance, rocker arm ratio, valve diameter, pushrod length, etc.

I'm also on the side of others in saying it'd be easiest to just start with a 302 and get a stroker kit.

SBF's really wake up with good heads such as TFS or AFR, and a 450cfm carb will choke a built small block. A 600cfm+ would be better suited.

 

289 and Boss 302 Rods are 0.065" longer which equals 5.155" [not 5.15"]
Most Ford pistons are at least 0.020" down the hole , Rebuilder pistons are usually more.

The best [aka cheap route] is 289 /302 pistons, 289 rods, and 302 crank in whatever block chosen.
Dummy assemble, and measure.
Cut the pistons so they are 0.005" above the deck and use 0.040" head gaskets.

Usually the most needed to cut off the pistons is approx 0.035"
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@MUNCIE
I'm not scared of jumping off a sinking ship [instead of trying to save it]
Nowadays I would simply abandon a 289 project and hunt down a 5.0 Roller cam short block.
Then use 289 oilpan /pickup /timing cover / heads [or convert 302 heads to 289 rockers] / rocker covers etc etc

A roller hydraulic cam is way better in todays environment.
If the roller block has a black painted oilpan it has TRW forged pistons [Grey oilpan has hypereutectic pistons]

most 5.0 blocks I've pulled down still showed the crosshatch marks in the bore

 

Rod length changed, when Ford changed the stroke.

 

Have you considered that the 289 and 302 pistons are the same ?
https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/threads/289-302-pistons.420263/

https://store.nexternal.com/iepgi/ford-289302-trw-performance-piston-kit-l2482f-kit-p2540.aspx

 

I used a 80s 5.0 block for my 289 build, one of the reasons was the one piece rear main seal but one difference is there’s no boss in the casting for clutch linkage. There’s a bolt on bracket available from many suppliers to mount the pivot ball for the clutch z bar or automatic shift linkage.

 

I would go with a regular 5.09 length rod and no machining on the pistons just to keep the build easy, cheap and straightforward.

 

And go with pistons that allow for the valve sizes you have in your heads. This would not be stock replacement pistons.

 

Yes sir, I am with you on the stroker kit. I will build one in the future for sure. I have a couple of extra carbs laying around so a 500CFM or 600CFM isn't a problem. I just thought the smaller CFM would give better throttle response.
Right now I am looking at getting these heads...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flk-185-505
-Mark

 

Thanks for the tip. Right now with the C4 I have my car does not have the OEM linkage (cable operated B&M) shifter. I will look for that boss on my 69/302 block. That is the core I was going to use in the future for the 331 and hopefully I will have my toploader by then to complete the auto to standard conversion.

-Mark

 

That's what I did. Got the 5.090 Scat rods from Summit with the main & rod Clevite bearing set. Then a set of flat top/w molly rings 0.40 - 302 Wisecos - with a CH of 1.600 after calling their tech line and speaking with technical support. I don't know exactly how much the machine shop decked the block but I figured the additional clearance down in the hole may be less than what I computed that I needed (1.616) with the formula. I just used the standard deck height of 8.206.
Stroke 3.0 divided by 2 = 1.5
Rod Length 5.090 + 1.5 = 6.59
Deck Height 8.206 - 6.59 = 1.616 compression height needed for TDC.

The tech at Wiseco verified my numbers as well so I guess I will see where we are at by end of week. If all checks out then I will move on to the cam and lifter selection. LSA 108 or 110 Thinking about going with an Crane grind.
I will install that as well as everything else from this point forward after the machine shop has balanced my rotating assembly.
-Mark

 

What heads are you using?
This video might help you decide what to do with your 302/289 , good torque and 400hp can put a smile on your face.

 

Those heads flow about the same as Ford GT40P heads with a valve job [Ford Explorer heads]
So you aren't gaining anything for your $$$ [I would prefer OEM over Aftermarket if there isn't any gains]

A 500 CFM carb would support 300hp which is a pretty good ask for a street 302. [HP ÷ 1.67 = CFM]
and that would also rev to 5800 rpm at 100% VE [ and 7100 rpm at 80% VE]

300hp is easily obtained with stock 1980's Ford E7TE heads and add a good "Valve Job" will probably get another 15-20hp.

Compression and Cam choice would "make or break" a 289/302 engine


You need to be absolutely honest to yourself ! Where in the RPM range is the engine going to live ? And how much your foot will be on the throttle ?

You could build an absolute "Boulevard Bandit" with a docile looking 320hp 302 [that looks like a 289]
320hp in a 3000 lb vehicle is good for 12.30 quarter mile. For a street car use an AOD and 4.56 gears with a 3000 stall converter.
The 0.7 O/D x 4.56 is a higher cruising gear ratio than your 3.25:1 ratio [at 3.05:1]

 

I was thinking about these or some AFR 185's.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flk-185-505

 

So the E7TE heads with a little work will be better than the stock 289's worked a little as well? I want something just like that boulevard bandit as you described. Plans are too at least upgrade to 3.73's at the very minimum. That's at least two steps up from the friendly highway 3.25's. I need to work out the details on the cam asap.
Crane, Crower and Isky come to mind. Engine Builder said Comp Cams are good but in his opinion the lifters aren't that good.

-Mark

 

A minor porting AND a good valve job goes a long way. E7TE heads are already set up for unleaded fuel.
But if you don't have a pair yet! don't bother.

Just try and find a pair of 1996-97 V8 Explorer heads, or 1993-95 Mustang Cobra Heads , they came with GT40 heads

Here's some reading for you
https://lmr.com/products/what-are-gt40-heads-mustang


Seriously, you can get more gains from keeping the engine "on song" than by machine gunning hot rod parts at it.
This is why road racers throw $1000's at close ratio transmissions.

The full mechanical AOD trans lets you have your cake and eat it. [4.56 Drag Gears and 3.05 Cruising Ratio]
And you can get hi-stall lock-up converters for them.

So does a 85-89 Mustang T5 manual transmission with 0.68 O/D [4.56 x 0.68 O/D = 3.10:1]
And these things shift as smooth as butter

Kerry

 

The E7TE heads also came on the 5.0L pickup engines with the same size valves, ports and combustion chambers...

 

I would start with this https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...wse_serp:ad6a3ebd-de56-458c-b456-0da6e5b93cea

 

I’ve kinda been looking at this thread here and there. What I can make out the OP would need to source 302 rods, pistons and crank? To stroke his 289.
If I’m correct (and not sure I am) I’d think what @Kerrynzl suggests and just find a roller 302 and walla, you would have what you are trying to make.
Plus no hunting for what you might also need later.
If I’m off base, head slap me and send me back to my room.
They take good care of me there.

Edit: assuming? The bores are the same size for 289 and 302, maybe do the leap to a 331? Stroker (think it was 331) and eliminate the middle man?

 

These heads flow about as good as a set of stock Explorer GT40P Heads, but are aluminum. There have been several discussions about their quality & consistency of the aluminum castings, so please do your homework before buying. I'd spend a little more money up front for some quality heads and you wont regret it. Back in the 90's and early 00's we raced foxbody Mustangs and most of them were worked over E7 heads or GT40P heads since nobody could afford aftermarket heads, many 10-12 second daily driven street cars with those heads in high school parking lots.

I did a budget SBF build a few years ago... it was a roller 302 .030" over with cheap DSS Forged pistons, stock rods and crank. Chinese dual plane intake and QFT 650cfm carb with a chinese HEI style distributor and chinese stainless shorty heads from ebay. I didnt have a lot of funds for a great set of heads, so I started rebuilding a set of Explorer GT40P's for it, then stumbled on a pair of Ford SVO GT40X Aluminum heads on craigslist for $500 and tossed those on the motor. That little motor screamed and I hadn't even put the nitrous on it yet before I sold it. In a 2900lb car it went 11.70's on motor with a 5spd manual and radials.

 

Thank you sir for the advice.
-Mark

 

I'm gonna message him to see if he has the heads to go with it...thanks

 

Well you were pretty much on track. I just thought that the 289 if it was buildable, I picked it up locked up for a $100 with some other parts. I could attempt to build it semi cheap. I will do a 331 at a different time. Machine shops quoted me about $!500 in machine work alone and the Scat kits were about the same so I figured I could build the 289 for half that and use a lot of the parts off my 260 to cut cost. A small upgrade here and there to the 289 and I figured I would have a nice little street motor. From what I read all I needed was 302 rods, crank and pistons.

-Mark

 

As I read the replies you’d also need a 302 crank shaft. Rods and pistons won’t increase CI by themselves.

 

Yes sir I forgot to mention that I had a 2M/302 crank that I picked up a few years ago.
Mark

 

That is what I personally would do [5.0 Roller with 289 peripherals] + a custom roller cam.
A Fox body GT 5.0 [black oilpan] came factory with TRW forged pistons.

Mark I quoted earlier "I'm not scared of jumping off a sinking ship [instead of trying to save it]"
With this analogy I have purchased cheap complete junk engines just to vulture all the peripheral parts off them.
I also sell off all the unused parts later as I don't like tripping over them.

I love building cheap junker looking "Q ships" [concealed weapons]
The 5.0 [not 302] is made of a higher nickel content but is also a lighter weight casting. I have purchased a few junkyard dogs that were still showing the crosshatch marks in the bore [160K +]

With these engines you change the cam but don't need to change roller lifters etc
289 oilpan and pickup fit these engines ,also the dipstick timing cover ,and fuel pump mount [you bolt the cam eccentric to the timing gear]

Be careful with valve lift unless you are prepared to deepen the piston notches [I've done this mod "in place"]

If you must fit aftermarket heads, look at "Trick Flow Twisted Wedge" because these heads have the valve location altered for higher lift cams.
5.0 pistons have offset pins, so you can also do the old "direct connection" trick of installing them backwards [[this alters the dwell an will prevent the pistons and valves kissing.

A 5.0 with GT40 heads and disguised as an early 289 [with cobra dual plane intake etc] would be cheap and a nice crisp street racer with the right gearing

 

Rods are different, pistons are the same.