Projects Mid Life Crisis 62 Vette

Perfict!....

 

Those girls may be sexy, but that little red corvette is sexier than the three of them combined. That is a nice ride!

 

I have a question if you don't mind. I am only up to page 20 so may have been discussed. Looks like you used a front mount on your 327 and a rear mount on the 4 speed and no mid-mount on the bell housing. Any problems? Putting together an old 54 that will have an sbc and 4 speed and trying to figure out if I need an early bell with the mid-mounts. Thanks!

 

The early Corvettes were built that way...front mount (at the water pump bolts), and rear mount at the transmission tail housing. They had aluminum bellhousings with an open bottom, too! They don't seem to have any problems because of the mount setup. Except that you have to keep the water pump bolts tight! or it starts leaking, then later the engine falls out.

 

My wife keeps a hat in my 57

 

Just to remind you of how Grace Kelly pulled off the scarf look

 

Just to remind you of how Isadora Duncan pulled off the scarf look (Keep that scarf short!)
https://clickamericana.com/topics/c...sadora-duncan-killed-in-bizarre-accident-1927

 

Meanwhile....

The boiling fuel issue is still here, maybe it's the winter gas and slightly warmer weather that's doing it. Stop for a few or a lot of minutes for gas or shopping or whatever, get back in, it might start right up, then die, or go a short ways and die. I tried a computer fan blowing through the heater intake hose last summer, it helped (I had the hose disconnected from the heater, and wired the open end in place next to the carb). But now that it's still heater season, that won't work.

These cars have another hole in the radiator support on the drivers side, for the fuel injection air cleaner intake. I decided to use that to run another duct hose, to blow on the carb. I added the computer fan, and used a magnet to stick the duct to the air cleaner base. I ordered an adjustable thermal switch, which I'll mount near the carb, and it will ground the fan when the temp is too high. The fan only draws a quarter amp, so it won't run down the battery if it runs for a while.

I had to remove the hood to get in there to work on it, but the hood is back on now.

 

https://www.pure-gas.org/

 

I'm not into trying to find special fuel to run my old heaps...I have enough trouble just keeping them running!

 

I solved my similar fuel issues with an old school Airquip inline fuel pump. it's wired so I can turn it on before I try to start up. It has really helped for quick starts under just the conditions you speak of. Also it has saved me a few times in the hot summer months with vapor lock or boiling.

 

Carter M6900 made a huge difference in the red 56. So much so I’ll be doing away with the electric fuel pump and this set up in the 57 soon.

 

L-79 intake swap?????..... And, or a cool can???....

 

There are a few more tricks to try...blocking the heat riser passages, insulating spacer under the carb, etc

If I find an old aluminum intake I'd like to try that, too. If it's the right one...dual plane, old, but a decent design. The factory one would be good. Or an old aftermarket.

 

A 160° thermostat usually helps also....

 

the engine temps have been cool, but the fuel issue happens.

 

Ok, are fan pulleys all the same diameter for small block chevy???? I know I won't be able to talk you into a clutch fan....

 

It has a fan clutch,, shroud, pulleys are original size, etc. The radiator is too small (it's the original size). But the fuel percolation problem happens when the engine is running cool.

 

I was going to suggest a phenolic spacer but I didn't think you had room for it.

 

My Vette did the same, you could hear the fuel boiling in the float chambers, I was sceptical at the suggestion but a half inch plastic carb spacer cured it.

 

The air cleaner was on the car before was almost touching the hood...but I found a stock one and now it has enough room. I ordered a spacer a couple days ago. I'll need to block the heat passages under the carb before I install it, either by changing intake gaskets, or plugging the two holes in the carb flange.

 

It's cheesy, but I've had good luck for years with a Mr. Gasket "Gasket Stack." It has something like three gaskets with aluminum plates in between. Up in Michigan, I don't like blocking the heat riser passages because I like driving my stuff as much as I can and they get pissy without the extra heat when it's cold. I'm using them on my '63 Riviera and my '65 Skylark. About every 10 years, I'll replace the lowest gasket because it gets a little coked up by the exhaust passage, but I've been running it on the Skylark for over 20 years. It made a big difference, and the stack only ends up being a quarter inch tall (or maybe three eighths).

 

I have one of those gasket stack spacers, I was looking at it...but of course it's for a normal carb, not the WCFB with it's small throttle bores. I was thinking about how I would go about making one, I have a chunk of sheet aluminum the right thickness, but it looked like a lot of work, so I just got on the internets and found a guy making the phenolic one, and ordered it.

 

Ventilate the hood. Know anyone with a louver press and some experience pressing fiberglass?

 

Jim can you post a link for the WCFB phenolic
Spacer?

 

A tunnel ram would keep the carbs cool.

 

https://www.dashman.net/product.php?id=203

 

that's been on my mind, just wondering how it would work out with the gearing I have....and I have couple road trips planned this year.

 

Work on hood lock down so remains open one inch while you drive but still tight. One inch gap to let hot air escape

 

It's just fine when I'm driving, it only is a problem when I park, shut it off, then start it up and drive away after several minutes. Opening the hood all the way does help, but I don't always remember, and it's a little bit of a nuisance.