Technical Ok, Ford FE gurus let’s talk

The diagram linked to in post 209 is correct, the one missing bit of info is the small red wire from the MSD box should connect to your ignition switch or the existing wire feeding the coil as that's the 'on' wire that turns on the box (after removing the ballast resistor). As the only Duraspark component I was using was the distributor, the various OEM plugs weren't there. I also didn't use MSDs accessory harnesses, wiring directly to the distributor and coil. I did home-brew a plug-in connector at the distributor. The next time I install one of these, I'll use a Deutch connector to the distributor.

I also kept the OEM Ford yellow-top coil and OEM spark plugs for my iron-headed motors. The coil worked fine on my street motors. I did open the plug gap up slightly to .040". If using aluminum heads, you'll be using gasketed plugs of a different heat range, not the OEM tapered seat type.

 

I'm no FE guru but I grew up driving my Dad's 67 Galaxie with a 390 that had been rebuilt with pre-smog heads and the C6 swapped for a toploader. That thing ran really good. My buddy's dad had a 57 F100 with a 360hp high compression solid lifter cam Police Interceptor 352 swapped into it and it was blazing fast. I now have a 428 SCJ and it's completely stock and it's stout. I think a lot of the 390s that people drove had the wheezy smog heads on them and they could hardly get out of their own way.
If you just build a nice 390 with free flowing heads, a nice .500"+ lift cam good intake and headers, it'll be a runner. Builds like this do 430hp and 450tq on the dyno. For more go with the stroker and/or more cam. 428s had 3.98" stroke, which will make 416cid in a 390 block .030" over.

 

Thanks, I missed that post.

 

428 cranks are too expensive, so I will just build the 445 I guess.

 

While we’re on ignition. I order a new distributor cap for my 62 FE and what arrived doesn’t fit. Is there a simple part number for the right type?

 

That's not a Ford cap.... As to part #s, every aftermarket manufacturer uses a different number. RockAuto has six different part #s from three manufacturers and there's more than three companies that make them, they only show three. Keep in mind that Ford used the same cap design on the V8s from 1957 all the way to 1973. The only variations that I'm aware of are cap color and whether the contacts in the cap are aluminum or brass.

 

Thanks, that’s what I thought, when I googled the part number on the box of the new one it came back as just about every Ford made from 1964. I guess it has to be the wrong cap in the wrong box. I just wanted to check that there was just the one sort.

 

There is a new Scat 428 crank for sale on KSL.com, at $400.00 for those who might be interested.
(I'm not affiliated or associated in any way, shape, or form)

 

Reading the 'Ultimate Hot Rod Motor' thread, I was struck by a thought. Out of all the '50s-era-designed V8s, guess which two have the most aftermarket support? Of course, the SBC rates at number one. You can build a new one with virtually all aftermarket parts. The next one in line? The venerable FE Ford. Alone among the non-SBC entries, it's the only one that can also be built from all aftermarket bits, although not cheaply. Heads from multiple vendors (Ford, TF, Edelbrock, BBM, Shelby, Speedmaster and ProMaxx just off the top of my head), intakes from most of the above vendors as well as some others. And there are still 'vintage' multi-carb intakes floating around if your taste runs that way. Leaving just new blocks. The supply has been spotty, with Genesis, Pond, BBM and Shelby all offering new 427 blocks at one time or another. Current offerings are limited; Pond offers an aluminum block, but it's machined for the SOHC only (no machining for the in-block cam and lifters). Shelby offers a 'regular' aluminum block but it's an eye-watering $8K+ purchase. What's interesting here is both Pond and BBM show regular 427 blocks in both cast iron and aluminum as 'out of stock' (not discontinued) so they may reappear if demand warrants it.

And Root, if you want to save a few bucks, there are new offshore copies of the Edelbrock Performer RPM (which is a copy of the OEM Ford 428PI intake) showing up for about $300 on eBay and elsewhere. No idea about fit/finish but may be worth a look. Says it fits 'stock heads' so some port matching may be needed with aftermarket heads.

 

The Windsors can't be far behind the FE if at all?

 

Far ahead if anything. Blocks are no problem, with even more types than the SBC. 302, Cleveland and 351W deck heights, iron and aluminum. The Cleveland head varieties will be more money, but the parts are out there. Up to 362 CI in a 302-based motor with an aftermarket block, all the way to 460" in a 351.

 

Back on the 445 stroker vs stock 390 debate. My thought is wait and see what core engine condition tells you. If it needs full crank machining, resizing rods, and of course bslsncing with the new pistons; it could br the stroker is not much additional expense. If the 390 is good shape, then i think it's plenty sufficient at that size. Remember a lot of discussion about 383 SBC, well that is basically close to 390 as far as size. Having an OD manual trans enables better use of the available power, even at 390 vs 445.

 

True.

 

Okay then, how much can you safely bore a 390?

 

No more than .040" over...

 

I was just wondering the same thing. There are going to be few blocks out there that haven't had at least a .030" cleanup on the bore. There is a 360 on FB right now that they want $150 for. It says it is already .030" over and has no ring ridge, but I wonder about any egg shaping on the bore.

 

FEs don’t like too much over bore, as a general rule. There are some that have thicker cylinder walls than others. The later mirror 105 blocks are thought to have less core shift, therefore allowing a little more over bore. There were some blocks cast as 428 engine but were only bored to 4.050 . There are ways of determining which blocks these are. These can take a lot of overbore. Some FT blocks can take lager overbores. I would recommend Sonic testing on any overbore.




Bones

 

Looking for a block, there are some indicators for the 428 cast blocks. The “ 428” in the water jacket. This is almost 100% indicator of an 428 cast block. And another quick indicator is the low triangle water jacket holes, extending below the head bolt hole, but this isn’t 100% , it just helps with looking. Almost all 428s have this, but not all engines that have this are 428s! There is a drill test between the cylinders through the freeze plugs also. Her are some pics.

 

I just figure a standard block 390 is like a unicorn...
I have seen one on FB, but the guy wants $500 for it and it is just the block.

 

Don't write off the .030" blocks until you have to. My son had a fatal overheat issue in his Bronco. It was wounded and had low compression in several holes. Bore scoped it and a couple bores were clearly scored and I could see on the piston tops that the 351 was already .030" over. Combine that with a few months sitting with coolant in the bores and I assumed it was trash.
I had a 302 block I was thinking of re ringing and the probably trash 351 block so I threw them in the truck and went to the machine shop. Carlos at AMS put his mic on both and said the 302 was a stock bore block with a lot of wear, needed bored and the .030" over 351 block might just might clean up at .040".
Seemed impossible because it looked terrible. Damned if it didn't clean up perfectly at .010" over the already .030" overbore despite the overheat and scoring. I have a forged steel SCAT 4" crank for it and that trash is going to be a 410.
Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

 

Yeah, core prices have climbed quite a bit lately. It seems the FE is popular again... The good news is that may encourage the aftermarket to do another run of new blocks.

 

There one here , in Oklahoma for $150!





Bones

 

IS that the one that says it is already .030" over?

 

Are .040 pistons easy to come by? Most of the 429-460 stuff I'm familiar with is either .030. 060 or .080.

 

I spoke with Brent Lykins yesterday and he spec'd out the cam for me. It's still more radical than I would have picked, but he knows these strokers, so I will obey the Master.

 

He didn’t say.
But it is a later model pickup block.



Bones

 

It's not the most commonly offered size, but they are out there. If you go on Summit and find a .030 piston you like, just change the part number to .040 and do a search. They are more common that you'd think.
Hastings 1131H .040" Oversize Hyper Coated Pistons, pins, clips and Moly Rings for Ford 1966-1970 390
Speed-pro forged pistons SLP-L2291F40
Silv-O-Lite has a hyper 390 piston 1131H.040
Badger makes a really inexpensive cast 390 .040 piston

Oh and if you want to build a badass 410W, Mahle has several 040 top shelf forged, coated, thin ring options.

 

Standard bore 65 390 listed in are capital city for 250 bucks, just a bare block.

 

That’s cheap enough.

 

Buy something complete if you can, starting with a bare block will nickel and dime you to death! Ask me how I know!