Looks to me like the weight of the load is borne by the axle/wheels/tires. Weight pulls down on boom, transfers load to vertical post and through the angled brace to the tongue. Good for picking up and moving/towing the item, but doesn't appear to allow the load to be put into the truck bed. Ray
that's exactly right. It needs to be attached to vehicle using the hitch. I need to move heavy stuff around the property and pull engines over dirt. I have other ways to get things in back of the truck. I like it and it does what I want it to do and have zero dollars in it. edit- the trailer coupler was like $25, I want to change it to a lunette ring...
Okay....what my buddy has is a frame hoist you can tow behind your car/truck and was built with some old banjo driveshaft's. The transmission I think is a mopar unit that was used once upon a time....a chain hoist work's pretty good now....my buddy didn't build it - but has owned it a loooong time. I've used it to pull motors and pull them out thru the yards....thinking maybe I could use it on a body off frame job ?
Gray Market Yanmar. Tractor has clutchless PowerShift on the column, R-N-1-2-3. One of the 5 ranges on the floor is a super creeper for roto tilling rice patties. SLOW. You have to look to see it move. The hydraulics are nice and sharp, way better than my 8N was and my smaller (US) Yanmar is. For pulling engines: put it in creep & N, put a little brake on so it can't roll, You can stand next to it and bump it in and out with F-N-R fractions at a time, up and down with the three point. I used to do it with the 8N, in and out with a bar or turning the tire and the hydraulics bobbed constantly. This tractor is the same age now as the 8N was when I got it. It's not my daily tractor anymore, still will do it though. Mike
Only improvement I can see on this is to weld a 3/16- or 1/4-inch-thick collar around the upright and weld the hitch to the collar. Not likely to tear the upright that way.
If you only want to go across the yard to get to a certain spot, lift the engine and back your truck under it............ Adding some pneumatic tires on the back of it just above ground level will allow you to tilt the picker back and roll it like a dolley. I did that and also added a trailer tongue to one years ago. I could tow it on the road to pull engines at other places. If however you want to be able to roll it across the yard with an engine hanging from it, thats a different situation. Ground often isn't level and even if you get it to roll with bigger wheels there will be danger of it tilting sideways.
I think it's coincidental that this: https://www.vevor.com/davit-crane-c...-construction-forestry-factory-p_010641013898 , was an ad my morning's feed. How do they watch ? Appears pretty cool though. Looks like a fella could make one of those. Mike
Probably not as cheap as Vervor can put it on your porch though. I have purchased a few Vervor items in the past couple of years and they seem pretty nice quality for the money.
That is one screwball engine in the Vevor ad. No doubt a stupid AI image. Might be a bit tricky to attach a transmission to that engine.
I made a simple boom device that fits in my truck reciever hitch. It uses a come a long for lifting. It is made off center so an engine can be picked up and swung into the bed. Great for buying or selling at a swap meet or dragging an engine out in the field. Making it off center reduces the stress in the hitch and allows a bigger swing. It could be used for moving an engine to and from a shop if there was room for the truck.
For the bigger jobs, I suggest the iconic GERLINGER straddle carrier. As you can see, it makes easy work of dealing with the (Jailbar Ford Truck) Everyone's results may vary.
I swapped engines in my 55 Buick with one of those tow it home rental cherry pickers in 1966. It looked like the one in this add. A guy in Oregon has this hitch mounted engine lift with a T that sets down on the ground or a block to stabalize it when you lift and swing something around but the crane leaves a lot to be desired.