Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Must have missed that light on your teardrop - enjoy your wiring duties this weekend and keep us posted brother!

 

Looking on the web today and found some repro trunk lid parts from I&I Reproduction. Can anyone with their original trunk lid still intact, looking at my 3 photos, show me your photos of these parts in your trunk lids? Then I can see firsthand what I need to do to modify my rumble lid to make it a trunk lid. Would appreciate this greatly for any help! Thank you!

 

Definitely following this! I'm going to be doing the same thing, I'm not interested in having the rumble seat, a trunk will be much more useful

 

One of the major design elements for my roadster it to preserve the large trunk space. I may need a place to sleep.

 

Zing!

 

That came out nice!

 

Thank you sir, the glass was a pain. I didn’t hold it long enough and it fell. Luckily it didn’t break

 

Back in the early '80's I didn't have these parts when I built my coupe. I filled the handle hole and adapted a VW latch with a pull cable to actuate it. A couple of years ago when I was making changes to the coupe I decided to add the handle and latch. I bought these same 3 pieces from I & I. The wood had the holes for the striker plate and latch so that was a no brainer. The deck lid was more difficult but with a little measuring I was able to drill the hole in the correct position. I did have to modify the latch as it was not exactly correct for a '35. The latch was obviously meant to fit a deck lid with an inner steel panel and with the '35 it needed to screw into wood. I also had to sink the latch down into the wood. All in all it worked out great and I'm glad I did it.

 

Would love to see some more pics of the car in your avi

 

Good to see wood,

 

My 34 Master body is far from being ready to go back on the frame. Still, I’m thinking about what suspension I want. My 34 frame is missing all of the original suspension and the current front and rear suspension is not allowed here on the HAMB. (If you want to see what is currently on the frame . . . . LINK HERE and scroll to pics right after the grille.)
I would value some guidance.
Speedway sells a 49-54 semi elliptical straight front axle which might be similar to what my 34 had originally. Or maybe I should consider a FORD spring behind drop axle with hairpins or 4 bar.
Go easy on me . . . some of this is new terminology to me and this is my first pre-war hot rod. I might get terms confused.
For the rear axle . . . I’m completely lost.

 

Appreciate your photos greatly - have an idea what I need to do... I'm leaning towards adding steel on the top of the rear panel under the trunk lid to make the lid close more solid.

 

As much as I'm a chevy guy I did end up running some ford stuff. I'm running a 36 rear spring and a 33-36 front axle. I do like the chevy stuff, but I didn't have any of it and built the frame from scratch. A lot easier to find the ford stuff. Running juice brakes, and 9in as well. I was able to get some of the stuff I needed from RJayspeedshop(rear spring cross member, ladder bars, rear spring perches. Then I got my split bones from carrillo customs. and bought a front crossmember from speedway

 

I originally built this car with '39 Ford tail lights. (who didn't?) They point to the sky instead of the rear. I always kept an eye in the rear view mirror to see what the person behind me was doing when I braked. More often than not I noticed that they seemed to not see the brake lights. A couple of years ago I decided to make a change for safety. I got some repop '35 Chevy tail light stands and shortened them 2 5/8” and added '33 Ford tail lights. I patched the '39 holes, blended the paint and now am a little more comfortable with the cell phone addicted driver behind me.

 

Jay, not to worry... As far as the rear goes, the Chevy rear from 1955 - 1964 is all 60", an excellent width for 30's Chevy Hot rods. Since I bought mine, she had a '63 Chevy rear and the spacing between my tire and the rear quarter was excellent and aesthetically pleasing to the eye. And remember, you can adjust the tire spacing (tire to body) by the backspacing of the wheel so the tire is either closer or further away from the rear quarter (figuring for body roll). My new Winters QCR is the SAME width, knowing that I wouldn't have any issues, possibly a small adjustment with a new set of wheels by figuring the backspacing for the most part.

If you decide to utilize fenders, this may or may not complicate things a bit. I had the original fenders on mine for about a year with no clearance issues of the tire hitting the outside lip of the rear or front fenders. Tire and wheel width is crucial to fenders, both rear and front. Do your internet search, even search the HAMB for better guidance - the members here are infinitely smarter than most, when it comes to hot rod builds. You know where I stand with front end choices... The final choice is YOURS. You can do it Jay!!!

 

Holy Christ! Your '35 Chevy (Master or Standard) is so straight and clean, the alignment of your doors is exceptional along with the gaps - any car nut BESIDES Chevy enthusiasts checking out your car is going to think that the body is fiberglass! Us Chevy guys know that a repro body was never made for the Standards or Master series...

 

28rpu, The lights fit the cat perfectly. That thing is beautifully understated. It just says. "Here I am, deal with me!"

 

Man this thing is so clean!!

 

Front of car wired. Still have to do the tail lights and brake lights

https://youtube.com/shorts/0lAtEpQ91tg?si=9c9J9f06jGw5pSTs

 

That is cool!

 

Just for a laugh.
I drive around in my 63 C10 with THIS on April 1st every year.

 

It is not as funny once you've actually done it. But still funny.

 

The Roundup is coming real soon - your hot rod will represent us Chevy rods very proudly sir!

 

Yep, I just have to get the doors done. I’ll make sure I post a picture here before round up.

 

Just need to figure out an arm to keep it up. 37’ Chevy trunk hinges
https://youtube.com/shorts/raQ0ddA4xYw?si=1t_10p5-RaJYkBtP

 

try a rod that hinges at the bottom right of the opening, that swings up to a hole in inner decklid for a prop,...lots of new cars use this method on hoods.

 

I think my friend still has this. It is a Studebaker part and original for a hood but I think you could make it work. I can probably get you a good deal on it.

 

$200 or no deal!