Last summer I sent a spare stock axle to Sid for a small drop and to tweak the spindles to clear the wishbone and correct the Ackerman. I got it back in good time but I'm just now getting around to changing it. This is the start. Remove the old one. I'm pulling the brake rotors/spindles to lighten the load. I'm also making a new lower sway bar link and touching up paint .
Here are a few from the end of the build 2019. The link to whole thread is under my posts. I've made a few small changes since, but couldn't get the "stance" like I wanted. I also hope to pull the front wheels inside the fenders more.
Here’s a cheat that you guys who need a narrower axle can use: install a 35-36 wishbone, spring, and axle. The distance from the wishbone ball to the crossmember is the same, but the distance between the perches is shorter. This means the axle ends are longer than the 37-40 axles. You can drop the 35-36 axle more, and can narrow it up more at the same time.
a 37 to 40 wishbone perch distance is 37.5 inches a 35 and 36 wishbone perch distance is like stock early ford 36.5 inches aftermarket axle perches are 34 inches - its why you need the narrower 29.25 spring, rather than 31 and a bit of a stocker- spring over 35-40 springs are 39.5'' the aftermarket 48 inch wide forged so-cal axle is available in a 2'' boss this has a stock 46.5'' perch distance of 36.5 so you can fit a 48'' wide 4'' drop - its actually 2.25'' lower than a stock 35/6 OR a 37-40 as they share the drop a 32 heavy axle stock is 50.5 to the king pins, it has a 36.5 perch a 35 or 36 axle is the same -both use a 2'' perch boss distance LOOKING AT some 37-40 spindles I HAVE on a stock 36 axle I would say that the king pin angle for camber is DIFFERENT - a 37 spindle on a 36 axle will make the wheels camber into the negative, its only slight but you can see it. if you swap in 37 spindles into a 36 axle and do not change the tie rod, it will tell you that the steering arm positions are different. couple of degrees. fyi its ALL about the distance from the perch to the king pin, as youo have to 's' shape the bend to clear the steering arm IF for example you 'even' try and fit bolt on steering arms to a 40 axle with aftermarket spindles, they will jamb on the axle king pin boss.
You're right. In fact, I had another '40 in the 80s with that exact combo and it worked well . I thought I could get what I wanted without the dropped axle. Wrong. Part of the problem is the disc brake kit; the key is the bearing adapter. On the other 40, I used a kit from PSI and made the bearing adapter for mid 60s Chevy wagon 11 x 21/2 drum front brakes. Also, my front wheels don't have enough back space. I can't get replacements because they're no longer made. Roadster Supply should solve the problem with their narrow front disc brake kit ,which is now available. I have a couple of things to check before I pull the trigger. Thanks for your input.
Thanks for sharing this project Joel. If you can please share the Roadster Supply part numbers for narrow front disc brake kit.
Here is the p/n I am looking at: RSC 40108. You can get the narrow track width with Corvette finned aluminum calipers also ...more money Front Brakes (roadstersupply.com)
Old axle out and new axle in.. almost. The bottom pic is the old axle ready to come out and the top is the new axle in with perch pins in. I found that we could slide/wiggle the axles out and the back in once the shackle bolts were pushed back. I may have to use a spreader to get the shackles back in place.
Drivers side mock up of spindles ( reworled by Sid) and steering tie rod and drag link installed. I wanted to make sure steering would go stop to stop and have NO interference. I mocked up a new pattern for a lower sway bar link. Sorry for the*****py pic. I should be able to show some pieces tomorrow.
I received the "narrow front brake kit " from Roadster Supply yesterday. I've been****embling parts for a test fit and gremlin search. So far so good. The rotors come with 1/2-20 studs on 4 1/2 bolt circle. As you can see, they are also drilled for 4 3/4 pattern. I have 2 choices; (1) press out the studs and re-install them in the alternat holes or buy 7/16-20 studs in the 4 3/4 pattern so my wheels fit. I am using door #2. There is bare steel to paint, so it'll be a few days until final****embly. I'm going to mount a wheel and put the full weight on the front axle and check tire /fender clearance. BTW the rotors have a patent # stamped on them. The owner said they were specially machined to eliminate the bearing adapters.
I'll be brief. I put the drivers side together and mounted the wheel and it cleared the fender turning full left to full right. There is another issue that I will address by shimming the left front fender out . I have the stock "V" fender brace and I think I can add maybe up to 1/4" between the inner fender and the brace. beyond that, will probably require re-shaping the wheel opening. Rotors painted and unmasked ready for install. The drivers side is ready to****emble.
Except for bleeding, the brakes are done. I've been changing some parts on the front sway bar links. I think the kit was originally CE but it doesn't matter. I made new "plates" to fasten to the perch pins on the underside of the wishbone. I bought new , longer perch pins and cone washers from Pete& Jakes. I made the saw cuts so I could twist the plate enough to align the connecting bolts vertically with the attachment points in the sway bar. Then I "veed " the slots to allow the weld to go half way through from each side.
last pic. I think it will work well. I ordered a new link kit from Summit with the correct length tubes and bolts. It might get here tomorrow.
The Jalopy Journal
