Technical Help identifying quick change rear end

Hi

Just picked up what my wife has called ‘yet another project’ and was hoping for some help identifying what rear end is under it.

it came with half a dozen sets of gears, all of which are new. Can anyone recognise it??

thanks in advance
Kelvin

 

Looks like it might be a Frankland. How many splines on the change gears?

 

those are 6 spline qc gears, i'm not an expert but i dont think Frankland made the smaller style that used 6 splines. Could be a halibrand or any number of others. There's a QC ID thread on the HAMB...

-rick

 

Speedway Engineering - 6 spline would indicate their Mini Stock.Check the sides of the flanges on the center section you may find a serial number and orig gear ratio. They make axle tubes for it that will accept regular axles and Ford brakes - check their street rod parts section.

https://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=72&product_id=63

 

I'm betting it's a Halibrand V8 style, but dont hold me to it. Search the HAMB for QC ID or Quickchange information, theres a few dozen good threads.

-rick

 

It’s not a Halibrand, but maybe you can post pics of the cover and sides so we can see features.

 

It is definitely not a Halibrand - ban tell by the casting itself, and it doesn't look like any of the Franklin's that I have either???

 

Like 29 Sleeper wrote Speedway Engineering rear midget size using six spline gears.

 

Here's the 10" NASCAR Speedway Engineering QC in my TransAm Mustang. 3 link and Watts link. Your castings and ribs look very similar.

 

I have to go away for a few weeks until the end of April but will post some more pictures when I’m back. Thanks for the advice so far!

 

Speedway Engineering Mini Stock.
I believe @Dean Lowe has one of these in his yellow RP.

 

hey 29, you got any pics of that watts link? Or brand? My frankland had the upper mounts for the 3 link, but i'm going 4 link for a street car and I wonder if a Watts could be better than a panhard. I've got a diagonal link for the lower 2 bars of the 4 link but am told it might not be durable enough for a 90% street car.


Thanks- rick

 

Panhard bar make the rearend move in an arc. That's why longer bars are better to increase the radius of the arc. Panhards make the rearend stay centered and move vertically only. The one on my car is very simple and light. Speedway Engineering built the complete chassis (same as the DeAtly TransAm Camaro that won the series). I'd assume they did the Watts link. You'd need to machine the nose of the QC if it's just a bare casting.

 

Thanks! I know the Watts is a more positive locator. I'm just not sure if I can package it in a street car with stock floors and a 4 link, though. That's a pretty cool setup. I found this fellow, a bit pricey though, lol: Bryans Racing Enterprises - Quick Change Watts Link

It simply replaces the bearing retainer. I may get a simple panhard mount that attaches to the bearing retainer bolts if the 4 link diagonal isn't positive enough. I dont have a ton of clearance between the side walls and inner tubs and dont want to cut a tire, lol. Lots to measure once assembled.


Edit: I just found this one, too. might be worth a try, lol. Watts Linkage, Assembly, Quick Change (colemanracing.com)

-rick

 

I'm watching this for the Watts link info. I have some of the pieces from a Speedway Engineering unit, and am adapting it to a torque tube.
Hope anyone using a Watts with a Quickchange will chime in add pictures. I will, but I'm a couple of steps away from that part of my build.

 

The Watts Linkage from Bryans Racing sure looks like a nice setup - especially with that big ole' greaseable bushing that rotates in the center of it. If I don't buy one from them, might just make my own.

 

Dale,
That Bryans Racing piece is very similar to the Speedway Engineering unit I have.
@Frames on here said he made the one that Speedway later copied.

You could certainly make one for less than the $399 price tag!

 

Maybe YOU could make one, lol, but I'm no machinist or fabricator. I can turn a wrench and weld enough to glue things together but it wont win any beauty pageant.

-rick

 

Not sure about his timeline. The DeAtley Camaros were built in 1982 - their first foray into the TransAm series.. BRE has been in business about 42 years (1982). Speedway had used it on some earlier chassis too.

 

In a home shop - but if you're going to have someone do it for you you'll need to start with an accurate sketch/print of what you need. A shop will bid 4 hours to make it (non CNC) @ $75-100 an hour. Materials will probably be around $50 most of it for the bronze. The wheel studs he uses for the pivots will add about $20.

 

Exactly - trying to get somebody to make a "one off" is probably not viable (from a cost perspective). I have a lathe and a mill with a rotary table, etc - so it is well within my capabilities. It usually comes down to time! LOL

 

One could probably use an off-the-shelf flanged sleeve bearing for some of it - something like this:

 

I should correct my earlier post:
Frames said, "About 1979 I used a Watts link on the front of the QC. My super late model chassis. I made the seal plate and used an Oilite bearing. About a 10" roll center. You can see the left frame extension for the left link. I continued to use the Watts link on my road race chassis. Speedway Enginering came out with one like mine later."

He didn't say they copied his but it seems that it was a couple of years before Bryans Racing was around. Dennis (@Frames) has been building race car chassis for a Looooooooong time.

Anyway, I know a bit about Dales abilities, that was the point of my post.

 

Posting on the watts link part of the thread. Disregard anything else you see in the photo.

 

Thanks for the post - an interesting setup. Looks like an air-bag setup . . . what is it for? Nice fabrication workmanship on the whole rear of the frame.

 

I like that it's removeable. lets you hang it off the back and still access the rear cover of a quick change.

-rick

 

Thank you. It’s for my very o/t squarebody truck.