Hot Rods The (mis) Adventures of a Compulsive Tinkerer

I mentioned in my response to BigJoeArt that I have distractions. Maybe it’s ADHD, I don’t know but here’s whats been happening since the Studebaker show.
A friend of mine wants to buy my red coupe. It hasn’t been driven since around Christmas time so I took the car cover off and cleared a path out of the shop. I pulled off the air cleaner and used some starting fluid just so I wouldn’t have to crank on it a bunch. It fired right up. After I backed it out, I went to put the air cleaner back on and the idle speed dropped significantly. Air cleaner off - idle up, air cleaner on - idle down. Noticeably down. Hmm….. it’s the finned oval one from Speedway. I guess that that paper element is pretty restrictive. I don’t know if there’s a better element available in that shape.



I took it for a drive to the local gas station and around some of our country roads. I absolutely love looking out over the bright red louvered hood and the chrome grille shell as I speed along the country roads. 400 hp, Mustang steering box and 4 wheel disc brakes just kick ass. I’ll admit, it’s going to be really hard to part with, but my wife and I decided that we have the Corvair and the Stude pickup to use to go to our local events so I’m going to take it down to its new SoCal owner in a week or so.
I will be able to put the Morris Minor woody in a better location to paint and assemble it, and I’ll have some more cash to get the interior done. I hate to be without an old Ford to drive so it might motivate me to get my roadster or my ‘33 pickup done faster. Can you tell I’m looking for that silver lining….

 

I did a little dirty work on the Austin. The rear wheel wells were pretty nasty with torched edges and random sheet metal sticking out towards the tires. Everything was either rusted bare metal or ancient undercoating so I scraped and trimmed and ground and sanded to make it nicer. I hit the springs and rear end with chassis black since I was already covered in sanding dust and overspray….


The brake drums look great so I’ll just prep them and give them some high heat paint and they’ll be reinstalled over the new brakes and refurbished backing plates.

 

Factory machine turned dash plate w/ S-W gauges... nice!

 

Our little trip to the Studebaker show revealed a couple irritating things that need my immediate attention if I’m going to be driving it a lot this season. The passengers outside door handle doesn’t work worth a damn. You pull it down and it doesn’t unlatch, so you pull and pull down and finally it opens. After watching my poor wife struggle with it, I moved it up to top priority.
I had to go to the hardware store and go do some maintenance at my Mom’s house this morning but when I got home I pulled the passenger’s door apart.
I took out the latch and found the problem. Just wear on two interacting parts. A little weld and grind should have them back in working order quickly.

Item two will take a little more work. The brake pedal effort is too much for my aging legs. I used the pedal that came in the truck to keep it looking like it did with the old TreadleVac brake assembly. The ratio was borderline but I gave it a shot. I’m going to have to make a pedal with the proper ratio. That’s ok, it won’t change much in the cab. I’m also considering finding a front disc brake conversion to replace the ‘58 Plymouth drum brakes. Anyone have any recommendations?

 

I don't have the horsepower that you have, but this is what works on mine.

 

My buddy (rip) had two Studes. One a late 50’s, small convertible car, the other a 60’s, a bit larger car.
Reason I brought that up, one of the dashes looked similar to your pic. Also, seemed Stude used SW gauges w/o the logo on them.
FWIW the ‘50’s one had a flat 6, the 60’s was a 239 or 289?, can’t recall.

 

Mine has a Blueprint Engines 430 hp 383. The dyno sheet that came with it said 458 hp but I doubt it has that in its present state of tune. I didn’t post a full photo because it has a Demon carb on a late model endurashine intake.
I like your water pump and mechanical fan. I bought one to use on the 283 that I was planning to install this spring. I’m going to have to find another use for my 283.

 

That same filter assembly worked fine on my big, stock...259 Stude engine.
I'd think that, yeah, It definitely would be too small for a good running 383.
But, I wouldn't think that it would affect the "idle" rpm air flow.

Mike

 

I found the same restriction problem on the center air filter on my Pontiac 3x2. I ordered a different element (Wix) and the idle speed remained the same with or without the air cleaner. I guess the cheap filter elements that come with these fancy aftermarket ani cleaners are just that, cheap filter elements.
I like the one on Catdads coupe but it’s someone else’s problem now. I’m sure he’ll find one that works well and suits his tastes.

 

Hey Bob, Do you know about Turner Brakes for Studes? I've never used them but have heard nothing but good about them. I also hear the owner is more than cooperative...
Here's a start: https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/brakes/Turner/tbins2015.html

 

I looked at Turners, didn't have anything for a '58 Plymouth (I'm assuming the whole front end is from the Plymouth), I also looked at Scarebird.

 

I haven’t begun to search in earnest for a brake kit but I remember finding something a while back. It might have been CPP. I just wanted to give the old drum system a chance. Well, its had its chance.
I haven’t posted much but I have been getting some stuff done. I rebuilt the Stude door latch and it’s working fine now. I forgot to take pictures but my wife will vouch for me.
I got the rear brake drums on the Austin cleaned and painted and installed but I think there might be a little problem. I need to go back and look but I think the adjusters are backed off all the way but the drums are snug on the shoes. I read on some thread that they make replacement shoes a little bigger to compensate for turned drums? I need to delve into it some more.
I wire brushed, sanded and cleaned the rear springs, rear end housing and frame rails in the Austin. I got a couple coats of chassis black on all of it and I cleaned and painted the Gabriel adjustable rear shocks. Again, no pictures. I’ll post some later, when it’s back together.
The big deal is, I sold my red coupe. I hadn’t planned on selling it until either the Morris woody or the roadster were running and ready to drive but a good friend expressed interest and we worked out a deal. So I spent some time going over it to make sure that it’s ready to go to its new home. I spent some time driving it and I have to admit, there’s no better feeling than looking out the windshield at louvers, shiny paint and a chrome radiator shell with that cool old cap. There’s nothing like an old Ford. They are soul nourishing, like petting a beloved dog. I got the trailer and my van all ready to go and loaded up the coupe today. The road trip begins tomorrow am.
I’m going to have some extra shop space so I’m going to move the old ‘33 pickup into the next phase ASAP. That means finishing the floor installation and pulling it apart so that I can put the chassis out back to inspect it well, weld up a zillion holes and grind off a bunch of scar tissue from its previous lives. I might be getting older and moving a little slower but I’m still enjoying the hell out of this stuff.
Ready to go to its new home….

 

Keep at it Bob. you’re knee deep in projects, I’m knee deep in tractor and getting my DD ready for a few trips to Sacramento.

Gladly trade places with you!

 

Two reds make it right....

 

The red coupe made it to its new home without any drama. I have to admit it looks good in his driveway, a good home for a fun car. I am sure going to miss the sound of that thumping 383 small block.
Navigating the LA freeways with a trailer sure made me appreciate where I live now,.

 

Turner brakes are made for diesel trucks. Way too heavy for a car. Making the suspension work way too hard. Do they work, yes. Are they "overly" heavy...yes.
Either "Hot Rods and Brakes" kit, or make up your own like I did for my Conestoga.

Mike

 

https://www.facebook.com/reel/982694142840598?fs=e&s=TIeQ9V&mibextid=0VwfS7

I saw this a minute ago while I was cruising around FB

 

Hey, that’s cool!! Bob’s Auto Transport in action. Would be better if I was driving it rather than trailering it though. At least he didn’t capture me weaving all over the road or pickin’ my nose or something. Thanks Enloe!

 

Bob!!!! You hit the big time!

 

Famous!

 

Not A Problem

 

Bob, are you still interested in the T5 transmission spacer for the 215 Buick?

 

Yes, so sorry I haven’t got back to you. I’ve had a million distractions lately but that’s no excuse. I’m heading back home tomorrow, I’ll try to contact you Monday. Thanks for the reminder and again, so sorry.

 

No problem Bob. My number is in the March PM I sent.

 

Bobs Auto Transport made it safe and sound, Thanks Again Bob

 

Looks great in your driveway. Needs a chrome windshield frame though….lol.

 

No time just driving it!

 

I was gone for a week or so and took myself a reset day, just unloading the van, putting travel stuff away and figuring a plan for the shop utilizing the newfound space. I was hoping to move my ancient lathe down the wall closer to the phase converter and get it wired up again. I’m going to need it for the Corvair blower project but it would impede access to the breaker panel. Don’t want that.
Here’s the pictures of the rear suspension cleaned up with fresh paint. I still have a little more to do but some areas will be coming apart and will get painted then. I’ll be pulling off the spring plates to weld on some traction bar tabs.

This morning I unwound the battery cable from its circuitous path so I could clean it and inspect it. It wrapped around the frame, routed through a few unprotected sheet metal holes and was taped up in a couple places. It cleaned up nicely and I didn’t find anything really bad except for the terminal at the starter end. I just cut it and installed a new end. I’ll reroute it tonight - with grommets. Simple stuff but it all needs to be done. A little progress….

 

Battery cable back in. I tried to use the factory holes in the frame instead of drilling more but the holes were a little too big for my 1/4” screws to bite. So I drilled the factory holes slightly oversize and used nutserts.

Finished up the cable run tonight. I’m going to remount the cut-off switch a little better in an attempt to clean up the trunk a little.

 

I made a cardboard pattern and made a small shelf, for lack of a better term. It hides the ugly and moves the switch to a more accessible location.
Here’s what’s left of the old trunk floor support where the cutoff switch used to reside. The positive cable passed through the hole on the left, over the sharp edge and into the tire area. With a nice sharp bend to avoid the tire. Swell.

Here’s the new shelf. It looks old because I made it from the custom hood side panel from my roadster. I’m no sheet metal guy but I got it right on the first try! The front edge is folded down and pop riveted to the wheel house. Note the trick, non-conductive battery hold down. That’s the kind of work I’ve been correcting since I got this car. All the while trying not to modernize it.
Oh yeah, that’s the gas cap and one of four vents in the homemade gas tank in the upper left.

The rerouted battery cable proved to be way too long so I shortened it. Of course I didn’t have the correct size cable end so I had to reuse the existing one. I learned a while back that you can get wires out of a crimped terminal by cutting it off with about 1” of wire sticking out. Then, by pulling the individual wires out, usually starting with the center ones, eventually they get loose and the terminal is empty. Then you just reshape the crimped part.

They had tried to solder it but only a few wires were slightly stuck. I found something to drive into the crimped part to open it and act as a mandrel to reshape it. What I found was the start of a homemade hood pin that I made when I was just out of high school - 1969-70! The other one had a washer welded to it.

The end result is acceptable. The cable is now safe and secure and not rubbing on sharp sheet metal (note the grommet) The switch is a good Hella part with a removable key. I might replace it with an NHRA acceptable switch with an external handle but it’ll be ok for now. There are so many cheap imitations, I’m not sure where to get a good quality one.

Sorry for the tediously long post for such a mundane task….