What OT crap are you working on

Got our sub frame grafted, LS set up under the 57 this week. Will be blown apart and painted once all the odds and ends are built

57 chassis with a gm C chassis graft

 

64 chevy truck 12 valve Cummins swap

 

1975 shorty van ...pulled the 292 installed a 406 I had laying around, now I gotta build traction bars cause it wheel hops like a S.O.B Scotty wants me to brush paint free candy or puppies or some shit on the side....

 

Left the HD 3 spd in just for laughs...

 

Son's 56 Chevy pickup.........

This is an excellent choice for someone wanting a decent looking driver for a reasonable cost. We bought an 89 Chevy truck that ran and drove fine. The owner had put a lot of new parts on it and when one more thing gave a problem he decided to just sell it.......cheap. Gave about $800 for it. We sold enough parts off it that we actually made money. The engine and trans can be left in place (we sold them) to keep costs really low. Most will probably have to be rebuilt, but all the parts are there. We went with an LY6 (6.0 LS) and a 4L80 overdrive. Had some 9" rears out back, so installed one of those, but isn't necessary if someone is looking for cheap.

We got a long bed because we wanted to shorten it .....and hey, thats what was available. The rear frame rails are not parallel and it interferes with the step on the bed side. Since we were shortening the frame we pulled the rails in parallel and removed the side mounted gas tank. We wanted a rear tank. We made a new crossmember and welded the rear frame to it. Then a couple of rear crossmembers to mount the gas tank and a hidden trailer hitch. A Saturn Vue gave up it's rear sway bar, and the gas tank is from a 2 door 2 wheel drive blazer. I recommend this tank (Spectra) as the varying years of manufacture have openings that will accept factory electric pumps for carbs or fuel injection. The fuel sending unit should be compatible with the dash guages.....I hope. Sitting the body on the frame was really easy. We made some mounts by slicing rectangular box tubing on an angle and welding it to the frame. Body sat right in place. You will see from the pictures below just how the truck sits. It sits this low without any lowering components. If someone wants theirs to sit higher, just weld the mounts higher or use a spacer to get just the height you want. We had to notch the frame just ahead of the steering box to clear the radiator support. The inner fender panels fit perfect against the frame and look factory (since they are). Some minor clearancing over the control arms was all that is needed. The beauty of this is that its a stock OEM suspension that rides good and we went ahead and put all new parts in it before reassembly. The stock power brakes can be retained and the master cylinder and booster can be mounted to the 56 firewall. I put a hanging pedal in it and a firewall plate to mount it to the 56 body. We made our own mounts for the LS engine and trans because that's what we wanted to do. The front track width just fits the stock wheels inside the fenders. This set-up won't work for 49-54 trucks because its too wide for those.......but it fits well on the 55-59 (and newer ?) Chevy's. This gives a solid platform for building a nice truck reasonably inexpensively and I think its a better way to go than subframing or aftermarket updates. Also, I like a steel bed instead of the wooden ones. We cut the bed floor out of the donor truck and added new bed sides,front and tailgate from LMC. Made some angle iron shaped pieces with a small radius to join the floor to the sides for a nice transition....gonna put some bed liner in to finish it off.

 

Round track guys love those HD 3 speeds

 

Keeping my hoopty 2008 Ford Escape on the road. It has 266K miles on the clock and the A/C still works. It blew a hydraulic clutch line last week and I had to get towed home. I replaced the clutch master and line last night and bled it with the help of the wife. 2.3L ecotec and a 5 speed manual.

I commute 54 miles each way to work every day, and driving into the city is brutal on the cars. I need something shitty that's cheap to run, cheap to fix, and I don't car about how bad it gets banged around.

 

My '56 F100 is sitting on a 2011 Ranger SWB 2WD chassis with an Explorer 8.8" 3.73 LSD Rear, with Viking DA Shocks and Assassin traction bars. Up front is modified stock lower control arms and Viking DA Coilovers.

A mild built 5.3 LS with cam & heads and 3200 stall converter in a 4L80E with Holley Terminator X Max running everything. Eventually hanging a single 78mm turbo off one side, water/methanol injection system, e85 fuel, etc. since I have everything to do that, but for now it'll be naturally aspirated.

The chassis is about 80% sorted, just need to finalize some part placements and finish some welds. I'm still working on the body, so that's delaying the other stuff right now.

Truck will be Wimbledon White, basic interior/exterior. I have several different sets of wheels and tires. Just want a fun cruiser that can throw down on the street/strip if need be.

I'm doing this all by myself in my garage on a tight budget and when I have time. Which right now is only a handful of hours per week.

 

That swap fit better than I thought it would.
Cool

 

Something I left out...........the 89 isn't the only year that works. Most already know, but 89 to 98 trucks are essentially the same for anyone considering this. Thanks for the compliment.

 

That's a cool truck

 

One of my brothers Camaro.

 

These have been taking all my time and money lately…

 

I’ve seen a lot of swaps that didn’t fit.
Wheel base off, track with off.
Ya did good

 

Tuning up the Aerocoupe...G-bodies are hot these days.

 

I don't know if a "short" bed 89 would have just been the right length or not to fit the 56. A wheelbase can be right, but the whole frame is too far forward or back slightly......so I don't know. Someone contemplating doing the same or similar swap should be aware of that. We may have just gotten lucky by getting a "long" wheelbase version....but the idea from the git-go was that it would allow us more room to make things work.......and as we discovered, the non-parallel rear frame and the step on the side of the bed were in each others way. Its simple to pull the rear rails in parallel and we like it better. On the top of the rails there are bed supports running crossways. All of this makes it very easy for anyone to build a truck and then sit the bed and cab on it........."and then" since it already sits low with the stock suspension components.......they can put the tires on "and then" just put spacers in place to raise cab/bed till it sits like someone prefers. Of course.........if someone wants to "lay frame" they will have to change some things. D)
But all in all, its a nice way to create a stance the easy way..........start low and raise instead of trying to get low. Anyway, I just want to explain this properly so if anyone else goes this way they know all the little details. If anyone has any questions, I will gladly try to provide answers......Glad you like it Anthony.

 

Getting ready to sand and buff this. Then on to the driveline and suspension. 70 AAR cuda.

 

Not mine but a buddy's. Think it's a neat build. International on a duramax chassis.

 

Aussie '56 Holden. My first car. My only project. Started in '83. Build thread started, here.. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...car-to-drive-down-the-same-first-road.1316267

 

I’d drive it

 

I love those monte's. At one time I had two real nice 87 aero coupes and one beater 87 SS. show us more of that vette please

 

Lowered the front of the candy van today, now its time to drop the rear. This thing is strictly a lowwww budget put it together with whats laying around fun project as I have a couple of serious projects going on. I did find some nice blue Astro van buckets for a hundred bucks today though

 

Well I’ll try to explain . The Old Power Wagon with the Cummins swap ; switched the pressure plate to Borg and Beck style Vs. Diaphragm . I have driven it 150k . Noticed a few weeks ago , would not go into reverse or low . Strange , I don’t drive the old dude hard . Thinkin it has to be hydraulic issue , installed new hydraulic system , nothing changed . Camera in the bellhousing , wife in cab shoves clutch pedal down . The fingers on the pressure plate are iron bound on the springs surrounding the clutch disc . Time to tear the old girl down and install OEM stuff . Really a strange thing to take place , but at lease I figured it out . Say a prayer and send a Priest to bless me !

 

We bought a non-op 71 Duster with the most gutless 400 ever assembled in it. Once I got it going the thing ran fine driving normally and once you got up to speed, but it wouldn't even spin a tire. 100 PSI compression - could be worn out, could be the cam installed wrong, either way, out it came.

I had plans to drop a good spare 440 in it, then fell backward into a little money and decided to build a 360 and convert to a 4-speed.

Of course that took way longer than it should have and now I'm kicking myself for not sticking to the simple original plan. But if the engine survives break in, I'll have a 4-speed and that's worth something.

 

I have a few toys...lately trying to find decent fe powerplant and transmission for the 69 LTD.

 

1912 Associated 6HP hit and miss.


....and the M1097 in the background.

 

Couple of old Yamaha dirt bikes.

 

Put factory AC dash vents in my non AC '64 El Camino.
Started with these.



Then this.

 

The vent assembly is:
'64-'65 Chevelle, El Camino repop Vent Bezel
'67 GTO repop plastic Vent Ball
'64-65 Chevelle, El Camino Factory original Vent Ball Retaining tube. (these are not repopped)

 

Finally got the 1970 Grand Prix fired up on E85 after converting it from gas, runs good so far. Been detoured on a pair of 63 GP’s for the last six months.