Technical Paint cost!

Wasn’t a problem…and the powder coat gets everywhere (99.99% coverage), for great rust protection.
Only downside would be collision repair/refinish. Might have to have the insurance company pay/partially pay for a matching respray with paint…definitely open to suggestions regarding this!

 

Back when I first bought automotive paint, the DJIA was about $1000. Now it's $40k.

Yeah, everything has gone up. If you're worried about the cost of things, then you should put your money where you'll get it back, with interest.

Prosperity is a bitch.

 

If that happens and you need to collect from insurance company, they should pay for what it costs to repair and refinish (powder coat) to match the rest of the car! So when they would be doing an estimate, tell them exactly what you have so they can give an accurate estimate.

 

Vehicles are designed with panel gaps based on being painted. Powder coating is quite a bit thicker than paint. One of the biggest causes of failure in powder coating is applying too thin a coating. I would be very concerned that powder coaters would be doing just that to maintain proper panel gaps on a car body and the chances of failure would be high and then you have a massive mess on your hands.

Ans when we are on a thread concerned about costs powder coating is not going to be any cheaper when you are talking about basic solid colours.

 

What? The cost to powder coat was very similar to the cost to get the body in epoxy primer…the difference is that the grey powder coat is the final finish…if it was epoxy primed, there would would the additional cost to get the body painted grey. That’s the difference between relatively inexpensive and relatively expensive!
The roadster pickup is built as a Hot Rod…not a show car.

 

You can buy a good quality gallon of epoxy from someone like SPI for under $200. I find it hard to believe he paid less than $200 to get that body powder coated.

 

You forgot to factor in labor???…there are a bunch of parts there. Apples to apples, oranges to oranges.

 

I went to a local FinishMaster paint shop to get all my paint for my project. My plan was to use the same paint for chassis, body and engine. 1 gallon of 2k sealer, 1 gallon of black Omni basecoat, 1 gallon of clear. It came out to $3800. I bought the stuff but felt horrible about it. I returned everything the next day. I think I'll be using some budget Summit stuff when the time comes.

 

How to save $$$$$
Set up a jobber account if possible.
Be creative. If your trimming out parts do you need a $600+ gallon of clear to paint the edges?
Each brand has different levels of products.
SPI clears are excellent choices.
Epoxy is expensive. PPGs old DP epoxy is basically sold under their industrial line. Much cheaper than the automotive side.
primers. Shoplines urethane has served me well.
SPI is a great epoxy
I’ve used most lower or economy epoxies. Non have failed.
Clausen makes a great polyester.
Color? Do you need the latest and greatest pigments designed for collision spot work?
Probably not. Never had an issue with lower line base coats or single stages with shop line being the exception. Had an adhesion issue painting the jambs on a truck we didn’t seal. Sanded the jambs and sprayed.
Haven’t had any when we used with a sealer.

 

One thing everyone seems to forget is the price of petroleum has sky rocketed.

Petroleum is in every aspect of paint. Not only are many of the solvents in paint petroleum based there is also the petroleum needed to produce this products, electricity, heat etc, and the petroleum needed to get these products to market.

 

Well we are talking about the price of matrerials but even then if you are doing no work to a brand new body when you powder coat it then you are doing the same lack of work to paint it to get the same results. The labour in painting is prep not spraying material. Sand it down and spray.

 

Thanks, Anthony;
I learned something, appreciate the opinion.
Marcus...

 

Omni is like trying to paint with whitewash. I swear it only exists as PPG's reason you should spend big $$$ on their regular line.

Nason, on the other hand is actually pretty decent in my experience for a "value" line

 

Not really. Adjusted for inflation, the cost of crude oil today is very close to what it was in the mid 1970s.

 

One other thing I'd add is that for those who are outsourcing the work of the paint job, it is virtually always less expensive to save on labor even at the expense of materials. For example, if you cheap out on a primer that sands like garbage, and you make more hours of work for the person blocking the car, you've likely negated all the savings of going to the less expensive primer over a quality product. Same holds true for bases that cover poorly, and for clear coats that don't sand well. If you're doing it yourself, feel free to waste as much time as you'd like. But if you're paying for it, it may well be penny wise and dollar foolish.

 

Miss my neighbors who enjoyed painting our cars for a 12 pack. IMRON, Dulux, Centari... Lacquer, at least 15 cars between them. We did the engine work. They did the paint.

I think seeing our cars running up and down the street was what motivated them.

 

Actually when I posted the grey roadster pickup pic I was referencing the total cost of spraying with epoxy primer ( materials and labor to have it sprayed vs total cost to have it powder coated ( materials and labor). The difference is the power coat is done…the epoxy primer is just the first step…with more primer and gloss paint before you arrive at the grey finish on my supplied pic of my friend’s roadster pu!

 

I've been using Summit Racing paints a lot recently, especially their gloss and satin (flat) catalyzed urethane clear. Seems as good as any, lays on really nice and their prices are WAY below other suppliers. Clears are about $85/gal, poly primer $65/gal, most single stage colors around $115/gal, base coats range from $180 (black) to $280 (red). Catalysts for the urethanes are about $45/qt (services 1gal of paint).

Incidentally their satin clear is as dead flat as you can get. If you are a rat rod fanatic, you can get a bullet proof catalyzed urethane clear finish that looks every bit as good as a fresh from the junk yard patina.

 

Got my materials quote $760. Single stage, don’t know the brand or quantity. Enough to do a 32 fendered 5 window (see avatar) or blowin this thing apart thread. Red, garnish moldings & dash, vanilla, firewall and blue body

 

I was just going to pass on adding any note,but I see so many that fail to set a realalistic goal,too real life.
Paint cost is not the factor, near as much as using it as ,excuses to not do it, instead of, just hunting up a color you can buy. Lots of paints an types,I use enamel,with a little hardner.I think I get great shin an long paint life.> But I do all my own work,in my own yard. The real look of any paint,no matter how much you pay,is way more about prep work before the finish paint ever goes on. The game of " I've got to have that paint*"= BS Excuses" I think. Last time I repainted my rod,total cost of all the stuff* used 7 years back, was under $200,with me doing every thing.

 

So I just rang up a tab at O'Reilly for stuff to paint one of my bosses trucks. 3 quarts nason ful-thane polar white with hardener and reducer, quart of primer and activater, gallon of degreaser, gallon of lacquer thinner, quart of glazing putty, bunch of sandpaper, two rolls of masking tape, and a few other odds and ends. Total materials about $800 with tax

 

I remember in Streetrodder, they did a short bus. Might have been for Tom McMullen.
A lot of the interior panels were powdercoated.

 

Around 400F. Shouldn't be a problem.

 

As a side note, Eaton spring warns against powder coating their leaf springs. https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/powder-coating-vs-painting-leaf-springs/

 

I used to work at a spring company, we Stress Relieved springs at different temperatures, depending on the material.
IIRC, 450F was common. Another employer, we had an automated powder coat line. Temperature and time were consistent. My biggest concern would be someone at home might not be able to control the temperature accurately.

 

That's insane. Imagine what an 18 wheeler truckload is valued at? Does PPG ship to their suppliers via armored car or armed outriders around the 18 wheeler? It's just tough to wrap my head around what everything costs nowadays. Reminds me of why I pretty much do everything around the house myself. Even doing all my own labor, the cost of car parts, building materials and food make working on cars, the house and feeding myself a constant challenge.

 

a while back I watched a video from Junkyard dave that brought a gallon of paint and he paid over $2,000 for it. it was a late mopar green color that had lots of pearls in it and there was a shortage of materials to make it. He was lucky he ordered it when he did because something like a few weeks/month later it almost doubled in price. They said that some colors will not be able to be made for 8 months to a year probably because certain ingredients are in short supply or don't even exist right now.

 

Just how it is.
10k is considered an economy paint job on an old car these days

 

When I had my Austin gasser painted back in 2011 it cost me $700 for a gallon of PPG #74 Corvette Dark Red Metallic. I'm sure that price would be double or close to triple these days.