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Technical 59a flatheads

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 65standard, May 23, 2024.

  1. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,598

    banjorear
    Member

    Dang, dude. I was feeling good about this one. Agree with Dale on all accounts. I wouldn't go too deep until you know there isn't another cracks elsewhere. If not, consider sleaving the hole.
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2024
  2. 39D3823F-F38F-45AF-BA51-435050458EE2.jpeg No idea how it would get a crack like that. The piston and rod are still perfect. The valves in that cylinder are perfect.
    Maybe it over heated, or was over boosted, or it’s just too thin?

    I’ll start to look at the 4th engine I have

    or use the good 392 fuel Hemi I have? 82D4F8C9-1004-41D5-8CFE-06DFFB56533B.jpeg 39D3823F-F38F-45AF-BA51-435050458EE2.jpeg
     
  3. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 1,936

    Ziggster
    Member

    Damn! That block looked so good.
     
  4. chicken
    Joined: Aug 15, 2004
    Posts: 590

    chicken
    Member
    from Kansas

    Usually cracks like that are from freezing with plain water instead of antifreeze. If no other cracks show up when magged, a sleeve will fix it properly.
     
    Okie Pete likes this.
  5. 72649933-51A4-46CC-AE14-D689C986CA82.jpeg BFEE3C75-68EF-47F1-A82B-236FB9ECD674.jpeg F3E0A1E6-FA79-42C9-8457-7746943AC2C3.jpeg 7E6CCFF6-F648-40A5-9CC5-1FE44D564C21.jpeg The worst looking engine ended up being the worst. Didn’t take long to see these cracks.
     
  6. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,598

    banjorear
    Member

    Jimminy crackers, dude. The flathead gods are not on your side.
     
  7. stubbsrodandcustom
    Joined: Dec 28, 2010
    Posts: 2,455

    stubbsrodandcustom
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Spring tx

    NoSurf likes this.
  8. 43D61DC8-96B7-440F-9073-3C5CE7881992.jpeg 3022F3FD-52CF-43B4-B103-C2E060F6B8BD.jpeg 591084A3-5BE7-4BA3-867F-78B47B469D0F.jpeg A61439A1-8A8A-4235-84F3-FB804BDC6AFC.jpeg 4D3EF4BA-22DE-4902-BC9F-52C1D5D1FD47.jpeg Okay. I’m going back to my original block. It’s by far the best choice among the 4 blocks I have.
     
  9. Yep - and I believe the "fix" you put in place will be just fine. I would have it magged around that area, and the whole rest of the block - just to make sure you don't have other cracks you can't see. You can always use some "Lock-N-Stitch" techniques to repair any you might find.

    Then, have the block baked and blasted to get any rust/scale out of the guts of it - then pressure tested. I've seen blocks with cracks in the exhaust ports - that were only found with pressure testing.

    If it passes all that, then sonic tested for cylinder wall thickness. This way, you'll truly know what you're starting with - before investing in expensive machining operations and associated parts.
     
  10. Also, PLEASE get a side-mount block adapter for your engine stand. ;)
     
    Hotrodmyk likes this.
  11. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,598

    banjorear
    Member

    As time marches on, I'm starting to believe a vast majority of the complete flatheads engine were taken out due to catastrophic failure reasons while in a car/truck.

    When factoring in your time, you may want to start looking for a known good bare block so you don't keep having this heartbreak. Plus, you don't have to keep dealing with heavy, cast iron scrap that some scrap yards won't take unless you hit a specific tonnage.
     
  12. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,598

    banjorear
    Member

    Also, can you tell us how you are getting these block so clean so quickly? I'd really like to know and give is whirl with some of my blocks. Thanks,
     
  13. 199E1B32-DC56-4BCE-8BBF-557408593B49.jpeg
    How is a full contact mount not good enough?
     
  14. Block cleaned with a wire cup on the outside. Bores cleaned with a deglasing ball hone and machine surfaces clean with 2” Scotch Brite pads.
     
    Desoto291Hemi and Ziggster like this.
  15. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,598

    banjorear
    Member

    That cast bell is not strong enough to hold a motor. Can you do it? Sure, many have. You may get lucky since it's only a bare block.

    NEVER support a full 59-series motor by the bell. That's why KR Wilson and other OE Ford tool makers designed their stands to mount the motor using the exhaust manifold bolts.
     
  16. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 1,936

    Ziggster
    Member

    Dropped off 4 disc brake rotors the other day and collected CAN$11.00. Was surprised I got that much.
     
  17. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,598

    banjorear
    Member

  18. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,598

    banjorear
    Member

    That is decent. The scrap yard by me in J won't even take cast iron unless you either have a ton or more or you are recycling something else like copper, aluminum, old computers, etc.
     
  19. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 1,936

    Ziggster
    Member

  20. 1368BAA8-E25B-4D2B-8652-CED9814D5C9B.jpeg I could have used any thickness I wanted, but went with 3/8. Took about 20 minutes to fabricate.
     
    KiWinUS and Ziggster like this.
  21. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,598

    banjorear
    Member

    Boom! Perfect.
     
  22. shorrock
    Joined: Oct 23, 2020
    Posts: 156

    shorrock

    I made the same engine adapter but drilled and use all 6 holes for maximum safety. I still don´t feel realy safe when a fully built engine hangs on those 6 exhaust bolts...
     
  23. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 7,332

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree; I would feel a little insecure with only 4 bolts.
     
  24. My adapter only has 4 bolts and as long as the threads in the block are good AND you use 7/16 NC bolts for the front two (many newbies don't notice this - and put 3/8" NC - which can get your feet smashed!) - then you'll be good.
     
    Ziggster likes this.
  25. Ziggster
    Joined: Aug 27, 2018
    Posts: 1,936

    Ziggster
    Member

    Agree. My first flathead sat on my engine stand with my DIY engine adapter plate mounted with four bolts probably close to a year. The load/stress on the four bolts I’m sure is well below their yield strength. Just use quality hardware and have sufficient thread engagement and all will be good. I did notice while getting the HellsGate exhaust manifold plate mounted, the thread depth of the exh manifold mounting holes were all over the place and I had to cut down a few of the bolts as they were bottoming out before the underside of the bolt head had contact with the manifold plate.
     
    GlassThamesDoug likes this.
  26. Ratmother
    Joined: Jan 23, 2022
    Posts: 32

    Ratmother
    Member

    I built my adapter out of 3/8” plate to use six bolts and drilled and slotted to fit each of my three engine stands - all with different diameter yokes. IMG_2506.jpeg
     
  27. GlassThamesDoug
    Joined: May 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,750

    GlassThamesDoug
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Car buddy in Illinois, could weld cast iron like butter. Amazing how good he was.
     
  28. There used to be a few guys that did furnace welding and fixing of blocks - most of them are long gone these days. That is part of the issue - the skills, tools and techniques that were used on a lot of our vintage engines are slowly disappearing.
     
    Desoto291Hemi likes this.
  29. Frames
    Joined: Apr 24, 2012
    Posts: 5,122

    Frames
    Member

    What are the pros and cons of installing pistons with the exhaust mount virsus the way I like to do it. Mounting off the front.
     

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