Projects Mid Life Crisis 62 Vette

^^^^^ Screw driver down lifter bore and a dial indicator at the back of the block is much cheaper.

 

Yeah, I did that. Setting the button by either adjusting a metal one or shaving a nylon button requires removal and replacement of the timing cover over and over, and stamped steel covers have too much give to keep the cam in place. So I'm inquiring what he did, not that your comment deserves an explanation.

 

A little math makes it a one time thing, right?

 

Perhaps? But it wasn't that simple for me, especially when the recommended endplay is between .005 and .010.

 

Oh, I just used the original stamped cover, got a plastic button, put a little dent in the cover deep enough to make me think it would work ok.

I don't take cam buttons nearly seriously enough!

 

Maybe I shouldn't either, but the internet made me care more than I did before, you know how that goes.

 

I did some more work on the distributor, so it's time for another test drive. It's not real hot out today, will only get into the low 90s, so I guess I'll drive over to Bisbee (which is even higher elevation than where I live).

In my short test drives in town, the engine has been running pretty cool, maybe up to 170 tops.

gratuitous engine pictures.

 

Lookin' good @squirrel! Are you going to put the bigger exhaust manifold's on it in the future, or are you going to go straight to header's?
Or... perhaps, just leave it as is?

 

I don't know. I'd kind of like to put headers on it, but then again I wouldn't, if you know what I mean. They can be a pain to deal with at times.


Results of test drive pretty good, it was about 90 degrees out, didn't quite get to 180 degrees, and the hottest it got was on the long slow climb out of Bisbee, Tombstone canyon.

Stopped a couple places in town after I got back, didn't seem to have any heat soak issues. The temp gauge showed the engine was pretty cool at the time, that helps.

 

Agreed. Not too many gasket blow out's with manifold's. They run quieter too.

 

And blow heat to the back end

 

I am pretty much anti-header unless there are no other options.

 

I like headers if I want to go fast...but they come with a price...

 

I just bought block huggers to clear the steering shaft. I really wanted to stay with the ram horns.

 

Yep, many different prices.
You know you want them!

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/headers/year/1962/make/chevrolet/model/corvette

 

These are great for adjusting the cam…we have one on our 422” Dart SBC.

 

My avatar race car with the Cadillac engine used a carriage bolt and lock nut screwed into the end of the cam and set about .010" from the cover. Budget parts rule.

 

That is a rare Corvette only mass damper for nvh reasons.

Late to the game...
Ghetto fixes I've used to help seal a sloppy npt fitting was to use yellow 'gas' teflon tape, or use reg teflon tape but twirl it into a string and wrap it into the root to help seal.

 

The epoxy appears to be doing fine

 

Time for you to come see me again Squirrel. You caused a good little stirr last September. You got a hitch on that thing ? Might get you a hit and Miss for a song. Word is several may be up for sale in September. Be cool to see them shoot the anvil. I like gun powered. Lol

 

The next trip I have planned is only to Missouri....

 

Where in Missouri are you gonna be

 

Ozarks drag strip. In october

https://www.sickthemagazine.com/sick-66/#where

 

I went for a little driving this evening, in town, it was about 90 when I left home. I drove all over, stopped at lots of stop lights, etc, then drove home. The temp gage went up to 160 and stayed there the whole time. When I got back home I put my temp gun on various places on the engine etc, the heads and intake were 155, the cold side of the radiator was 125, hot side was 140something.

Interesting

 

I think you took the exit to The Twilight Zone!

 

You must be better at this stuff than you thought!

 

I don't recall if you mentioned the temp rating of your thermostat, is it a 160?
If so, I guess it's working properly.
But I thought it's better to run an engine at 180 or 195 to help reduce wear and water condensation in the oil.

 

Yes, it's a 160, and yes, 180 or 195 will make the engine live longer. But it also raises the temperature of the engine compartment, and with fuel the way it is, I'd rather have things be cooler and wear out a bit sooner, than have to deal with fuel percolation

 

I bought a '97 GMC C1500 Suburban new and reprogramed the computer with a Hypertec plugin. They recommended a 160 degree thermostat as part of the package. The truck has 345K miles on it now and still doesn't use oil. I've done all the maintenance on it with 3K mile oil and filter changes. I question the theory that a lower temp rated engine thermostat increase wear. An engine will reach its operating temp regardless of the thermostat. A thermostat is a restrictor that starts to open at the rated temp and is not fully open until 10 to 20 degrees higher. For the last sixty plus years I've installed 160 degree thermostats. Additionally without removing the aftermarket program my GMC passes the biannual California smog check. If it was worn out the test would indicate the change.

 

And how long would it have lasted with a 195 thermostat? We'll never know.


One thing I noticed pretty early in my car working on days, was that the bores of an engine block always seem to wear the most at the front of the engine, right where the cool water from the pump enters. I also saw charts of bore wear vs temp in a few automotive texts when I was young. So I'm pretty sure that cooler temps do increase wear. But it's only a problem if it's really cold, and you expect to get a whole lot of miles out of it.