Not exactly sure what you are saying - are you comparing a engine stand mount that picks up the rear of the block (traditional style used for OHV engines) vs the exhaust flange? The exhaust flange block mount does make it a little bit more difficult in that you can't partially rotate the block to change the angle of how you install the piston and manage the connecting rod as it goes through the bore. But, there are added benefits of the exhaust mount when it comes to putting the flywheel and clutch on as you can rotate the block and install them top-down. In addition, it is easier to drop the cam straight down into the cam bores - rather than having to try to support it as you install it when the block is not rotated. Also, I sometimes mount the transmission to the block when it is rotated up - checked that the throw-out bearing is working correctly, etc.. So, there are pluses and minuses for either approach.
Another 59a flathead number 5. This one is a mystery. Mountain motor flathead. I’ll tear it down and check for cracks. Big bore big stroke motor
I sure wish you'd get or make a side/mount adapter for these engines . . . why take a chance with breaking the bellhousing off and having it land on your feet!
I have one. I like the bell housing mount for tear down and inspection. I’ll use the side mount on final assembly.
Most of the pushing and smashing forces are done during tear down. Like when you need to hammer on stuck stuff. That’s why we are worried. You are becoming aware how hard good blocks are to find. Your latest engine has a factory relief.
It also has a 4.110 stroke and 3.360 bore. I’ll clean the block side and the header threads first, then switch over to the side mount.
If this new "Big Dog" flathead is in good shape (no cracks), it would be a nice big-cube motor. It will probably need bored and it is close to the max bore size. If it checks out on the mag test, I would sonic test all the bores before going further. I take 12 readings per cylinder to get an idea if you have material to work with. Some of these older big-cube builds have had a lot of rust issues - leaving no material for an overbore. I just scrapped one recently - due to the amount of block deterioration from rust in the water jackets and around the cylinders.
This mountain motor flathead has a broken head stud and 3 minor cracks between a head bolt and water passage. Everything else is good. Cylinders are excellent. No idea what cam it has but I measured .358 lift intake & .395 lift exhaust.
I think you scored with this engine! I don't recognize the front of the cam, but the profile almost looks like a Harman-Collins grind. You might check around the perimeter of the front flange - H&C normally marked their cams in this location. The cracks from the stud to the water jackets are a total non-issue . . . some of us believe Ford even gave them a "part number" - they happen so often. Make sure you have the block sonic tested . . . so important to know what you have to work with. If you like the results, then make sure to pressure test it as well. It has some scoring and pitting in the bores, I would consider boring it the least amount possible. Ross will make you pistons to fit your bore size. I would look for metric rings before you decide on the bore -- using 1.5, 1.5, 3.0 ring packages (or similar). If your bores are 3.360 (with no taper), consider just having them honed for 85.5 mm rings (3.366 bore). In today's world, always select your ring package first - then use them to determine your piston configuration. The modern metric rings are a whole lot better than the good ole' Grant or Hastings stuff we used to all run. I'm quite hopeful for this latest engine! If you need anything, just send me a private convo request. Cheers, B&S
I use a plate washer to weld to the stud and then a welded nut on top of the washer. same result but easier to weld washer first.
Great Job! The block doesn't appear to be ported . . . and it if is, not by much. What do the intake bowls and ports look like?
I don’t think the ports were touched. I will port match the intake side. I took a gamble and paid $250 for this big inch motor. I figured that the crank was worth the price even if the block was no good.
Yeah, no port work done. There isn't a whole lot to be gained by porting - unless you plan to run at higher RPMS.
For that big of motor and that it's already stripped down, I'd think about opening the exhaust up to 1 3/4" and cleaning up the center exhaust port and removing as much of the "lip" just inside of the the end exhaust ports as well.
It surely won't hurt . . . though the intake side of this block is stock . . . so if it was mine, I'd concentrate on both ends of the system. It also depends on what his goals are for the engine, how he wants to drive the car, etc..
B&S, agree 100%. I guess it does all depends what OP wants to do. As a tinkerer, I can't leave well enough alone. Haha
Yes. A big Isky cam. Probably need a bigger cam because of the extra cubes. Just have to see what is recommended
Dang. Looks great! Agreed. Nasty cam. Potvin 3/8ths or Eliminator if your heads can be flycut or take the lift would be my choices.
Thanks guys for the cam recommendation. I really have my heart set on an Isky cam. If I go with an Isky, which cam would you recommend? With the block cleaned up, the true bore size is 3.375 with a 4.125 stroke. This motor looks to be maxed out at 296ci with the parts available back in the 50’s.
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