Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

The only Hambers that I've known who owns early Chevy trucks are Mike @cactus1 with his '34 Chevy pickup and Neil @Tat2Neil with his '35 Chevy pickup. They're both GREAT looking, rare hot rods!

 

My ‘31 Pontiac ( pretty much the same body from the cowl back) door gaps measure between 3/16 inch and quarter inch.

 

Thanks for taking the time to measure and post. Really appreciate it. BTW, I forgot did you take 3 or 3 1/2 out of the top?

 

3” chop at the windshield and 2 1/2” at the rear window.

 

I think I’m actually going to work my doors now lol. Tired of these rattle
Traps

 

Excellent - keep us posted!

 

Such a GREAT looking hot rod!

 

Thanks! Great to see more early GM hot rods being built.

 

Didn’t work on my coupe last weekend. I was attending the Smoky Mountain Nationals Annual Truck Meet for 1947-55 GM trucks. Lots of fun.
Back to work on the 1934 coupe this week. Welded a few more frame holes closed. Then welded 14g angle iron bracing to the frame so I could remove the unneeded crossmember. Then some media blasting to the inside of the frame before I spray epoxy primer and box the frame.

 

Your progress is going well Jay - did you indicate or keep track of the existing holes needed to mount the body back on? Should be 6, 3 on each side, maybe more.

 

Nope, but I can still find them because I can still see the weld from the under side of the top flange. I kinda regret saving this frame and not just building a new frame. This is taking a lot of time because I need to undo what other owners have done.

 

That's true, but in reality, you're going to experience the amount of pride that knowing you saved the original 90 year old frame and body that a small percentage of hotrodders can boast about... I'm one of those hotrodders myself!

Here's an eBay link for parts that you may need for your '34 Chevy Master Coupe: Exterior Parts for 1934 Chevrolet Master for sale | eBay

 

I cant remember if I did 6 or 8 body mounts on my frame

 

I would think 8 mounts with the fact that your frame is hand built and all steel floors with it as well for much more strength. Any progress with your doors or leave well enough alone till the winter breaks for later projects - just drive the shit out of it and continue to enjoy your '35?

 

Yeah I do have 8 lol I had to go double check. I’m getting all the extra materials and such now and should be starting it here soon. I’ve been trying it and figuring out some issues with my motor. I don’t think my rings have sat yet so I’m getting a bit of blow by.. then I messed with the timing a bit because it was idling a bit too high. Next I’ll be taking the intake off to send it to get polished and then slowly get the how I want them. I should have those finished by end of month I’m hoping

 

Also have a machinist buddy building risers for my water pump to raise it up about 4 inches

 

Chopping the top of my 34 scares the *#%*<# out of me. I can certainly live with what I have.
Not a severe chop. Just 2”.
Reading and YouTube videos have helped me understand the complexities of chopping a car with slanted A pillars. The top needs to be stretched so the A pillars meet, or the angle of the A pillars tilted back. Plus there is the issue of making the windshield flange match top and bottom so the glass seals properly.
I’ll share my thoughts hoping you will recognize I am a newb at chopping a hot rod.
This photo explains what’s in my mind as a POSSIBLE way to chop.
I would choose to elongate the roof.
The open roof would make it easy to Z the roof above the doors.
I’d use the 2” chopped out piece from the A pillar (after a little reshaping) to fill the bead line above the door since the bead shape is nearly identical. Door would get the same treatment using the section removed from the door B pillar.
The Z at the roof line would require a 1-2 inch strip of sheet metal shaped with an English wheel. A donor roof panel would be spliced in to fill the open roof. Appropriate roof bracing as a final step.
The advantage to this method is that the A pillar and windshield flange remain the same. The risk is that the roof is weak and caves downward.
I’m ready to listen to advice.

 

Have you seen Kyle's video of him chopping a 33 Chev coupe?
He's kind of a goofball, but he actually knows what he's doing and does a great job.

 

I’d also go and watch the series that MFS did with Walden on chopping. Different make/year but still good info to get you going.
https://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLr_qWzTxOmB6b8ftcXTfKooTmBPm7LKyD

 

Buddy made some risers for my waterpump, car was running hot due to fan placement.

 

Very impressive ingenuity brother - Look into this engine coolant in case the need arises, because this coolant will be flowing in my system in the very near future:

• Specifically designed for all modern, classic, and vintage gasoline-powered vehicles, light duty Diesels, LP and CNG vehicles
• Has a boiling point of 375 Degrees Fahrenheit and will not vaporize, eliminating boilover and after-boil. Also generates low vapor pressures, prevents coolant loss, and reduces strain on cooling system components
• Contains no water, effectively eliminating corrosion, liner and water pump cavitation erosion Minimizes the potential for corrosion and electrolysis issues, and reduces maintenance costs
• Eliminates pre-ignition and engine knock caused by overheating, improving combustion efficiency to deliver more power and improved fuel economy

• During installation ensure that all of old water-based coolant and water is removed before installing this product

 

Jay, you got a set of "cajones" - most of us would not have figured that you would consider chopping your top on your '34... BRAVO SIR!!! Definitely a subject that I need to consider as well - At 6'3", my height might be at a disadvantage...

 

I cant remember if I seen this on here on somewhere else online.. but this 32 has always been one of my favorite chops. Of course different than a 34 but killer

 

Very nice, A little too much is just tight!

 

I actually did read about that stuff at one point. Just sucks cause you’d have to spend like 150-200 on fluids

 

Great solution with those risers @snoop74! What water pump are you using?
It appears to be aluminum and have a smaller profile.

 

It is aluminum but I think it’s of the same profile, I have a cast one too and everything lines up about the same.

 

Brother - Possibly look into this "Super Cooling" water pump replacement, grind down the "Edelbrock" logo so it resembles a factory water pump and paint it Chevy Orange afterwards - no one will ever tell the difference (damn thing is very PRICEY):

Fits 1958-65 B/B Chevy 348/409 "W-Series" engines. Satin Aluminum Finish. The "super cooling" water pump is computer-designed to deliver more flow at a higher velocity. They're the ideal choice to prevent overheating in any street machine, street rod, truck, or any performance vehicle. Precision cast powdered metal impellers have extra large vanes for the maximum flow rate possible, ensuring adequate pressure and volume even at lower engine speeds. Factory replacement for Revolver Serpentine Kits..

 

I’ve watched a good chunk of Kyle’s video. Goofball or not, I like that he knows how to edit a video. I think his goofiness is just his attempt at trying to make it a bit more entertaining to watch.
I noticed he lengthened the roof. I found it odd that he did the doors first. I can only presume that he did some trimming of the A and B pillars to fine tune things to get the doors to fit the way he wanted.
It also appears that he lined up the A pillars and then worked out the gap difference at the back window. That’s why he needed to cut the side window corner to move it forward.
I’ll watch the whole thing several times.
I research everything before I start something. It slows my progress, but I make fewer mistakes (hopefully).

 

Smart move Jay, any updates on your frame?