Technical Picture thread - Air Conditioning Vents and Controls

Old line: “get in, shut up and hold on.”
New line: “hey honey, you might want to put on another layer. My balls are getting sweaty so I’m gonna turn the a/c up.”

 

Sure I agree but then you have to deal with ugly vents in a car that they are out of place. As long as you can get decent airflow to shoulder and above height its works fine at least for me which allows the receiver to be in the trunk if if you want for concealing purpose.

 

Google automotive detailing brush. Lots available.

 

I had to put a resister in the fan switch ground to give me 3 spds but at lower rpm. Once cool don't need the low fan speed to be as much, can turn down the temp control to about midway. Shifter lever/knob turns into an icicle. Nice to be cool after a day of hot air/sun. Makes the wife nippily, me too if you really want to know? TMI.

 

The ones I saw in Florida, not Vintage Air but everyone seemed to favor this other brand. Anyone got another AC company name? I'm looking for options for my "new" '66 Belair. Thanks

 

Old Air Products Hurricane are a little more compact. Their fans do not blow thru the evap or heater core but suck thru them. They do not have a floor heater duct when I bought mine. Will freeze you out on medium fan.. good luck.

 

I found this at a Swap Meet several years ago, it's out of a 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix. I didn't want to put plastic or billet vents, its perfect for my small 51 ford cab. It does have a clock that's right 2 times a day!

 

This is very good information about the difference between the Vintage Air and Old Air Products offerings.

However, I would like to clarify your opinion. That it will freeze you out on medium fan, is that a good thing in your opinion or a bad thing? For those of us with big cars that get hot and are tough to cool off inside, a powerful AC system would seem like a benefit.

Without the floor heater duct, I'm assuming the Old Air System heats though the dash vents/defroster instead?

Thanks for more great input

 

I couldn't live with the plastic center vent that came with the Vintage Air kit for my 55 Chevy, so I made a new center plenum and machined three swivel outlets that matched the factory style vents on the dash.

View attachment 6104135

 

Looks great!

 

That's a huge improvement. The one that came in the kit looks like ass.

I think this post is especially representative of what I was trying to accomplish with this thread. We can get these aftermarket air conditioning set ups and units, but there is seemingly no consideration by these companies about how these products are going to look in the car once installed. Here, a cheap and modern looking part was replaced by something much richer looking and more era appropriate. Great work.

 

More efficient pulling through; same concept as puller vs pusher fans for the radiator.

 

After a year on the road, I decided it was too hot in my '33 coupe. Naturally, I ripped everything apart and went backwards to move forward. Bought a Vintage Air Gen II (I think) compact unit. Not wanting to destroy the look of the dash, I hid the controls in the glovebox; vents are really hidden; you don't see them when sitting in the car, much less from the outside. Tucked back from the face of the dash (one on each corner). If you didn't notice the condenser, you'd never even know it had A/C. Cools things off just enough.

 

First.. the vents do blow cold or hot which ever you choose. I think VA units have specific floor vents.
As for freezing you out which my wife calls it (ours is in a 56 Ford Victoria) after a few minutes on high fan for initial cool down we’ve never used the high as a comfortable driving setting. It’s usually on low and we are both just fine. Her side vent actually has a thick cardboard washer with a 1” hole to restrict her side.
I’ve recently started using a blending of the dash vents with the defroster vents if the day is over 90* which is not very often. The extra amount higher up in the car does add to cooling of the interior.
The main reason I didn’t use a VA was I couldn’t get the radio out of the dash. My radio is original depth eventho all the guts are modernized. The Air Shop in Santa Ana Ca. doing the work were familiar with both. The engine has VA mounts with I really liked..

 

I hadn't really thought of it in those terms but yeah, that's a great analogy.

 

Great insight. Thanks man

 

I installed a Vintage Air system and made my own bracket to somewhat hide the compressor. I also did not like any of the plastic aftermarket vents so I found a pair of 1964 Cadillac AC vents and fabricated housings to mount them under the dash. I wanted it to look more period than all the pieces I found from current companies.

 

The one I just looked at was AC only, looks like the existing heater is left alone. They have other units that do heat and AC. I'd be happy with just the AC,

 

I like the hidden look for the compressor and the dash vents are amazing. Great job.

 

After some dismal performance from Vintage Air units lately. I find the VA junk aims for such low temperatures, and the expansion valve never moves to change superheat, they regulate by their probe on the coils. So it works like hell, gets to 40 degree vent temps and click cycle begins. Nothing like driving down the road having your AC cycling and the interior air still be over 80 degrees. It's like Satan farted in your face when that unit cycles...

I may go back to rehabbing old Underdash units and using them. With a little ingenuity you could make the underdash removable or tuck away when not in use. A longer line set inside and some brackets that allow it to come down and all you would have to do it pop the drain line on each time.

 

"" It's like Satan farted in your face when that unit cycles...""

I Have [see post #4] at least 6feet of lines, probably the longest posted on here so far between the drier and receiver to the compressor and condenser and have no issue with cycling. Got to be something else causing such a swing; what ever it [the temp swing] is in my system I can't say I have ever noticed it. All I ever do is start on second speed fan and full AC and lower fan to low speed and temp control down as interior cools. Only issue I have is when first starting engine and trying run the AC with the load of alternator charging the battery the single belt cry's till the battery is full up so have to wait a minute or two.

 

Here’s what dad cooked up ca. 1980. I’m pretty sure the vents are from a production vehicle.

38 Chevys had a radio and ashtray stock where the center vents are located. At some point I’ll delete the CD player for something hidden or a Bluetooth receiver

 

I have owned 6 different VA units and all of them, when appropriately sized, cooled like they should. When they didn't, it was usually because I pinched an O-ring during assembly and the refrigerant had leaked out. This is a company based in TX, where it really gets hot. They know what they are doing. Perhaps you have something wrong with your system. Which system do you have and what car do you have it installed in?

 

Do tell.. I was preparing to drop some coin with VA because I assumed they’re the best.
I’m installing in a business coupe so not much area to cool. The unit that’s in it now was installed around 1980 and it got cold but the air volume was just slightly stronger than a whisper.

 

They are IMO. Mine was far from simple to install but that is because of new, not the product. The one I installed recently in my wife’s truck is fantastic. Works like a brand new car. I’m glad there is a low speed on the fan selector. I had to open the cowl vent to prevent frost bite.

Every product will have a naysayer, Lincoln (not the car company, the President) told us that. Use a genuine Sanden compressor. I would recommend not using VA hoses and crimps though. I learned that there are better ways recently.

 

I picked up a Gen-u-ine Sanden just recently. My late model GM pickup shucked the compressor so I did a retrofit sanden and it’s going strong.

 

A lot of knock offs out there, the genuine article is well worth the price.

 

The knock off's are junk, and when they go, they contaminate the whole system with crap that you may not be able to clean out. It's just not worth it to buy them.

 

Sure... I think everyone has nicked a O ring if you have done AC work. Just part of the territory. That normally shows up on the vacuum of the system.

Here is the list I remember of my installs or units I have worked on recently. From best performing to worst.

Note: All vehicles insulated, sealed up, proper airflow to condenser. And every one of them put out 37-42 deg at the vent. Charged to VA spec. All running Superflow condensers from VA. All Sanden compressors. All vehicles will idle for days and pump out a good vent temp with no cycling. Every unit had 400" cubed area or more condenser.

58 Ford Fairlane - Slimline... Installed by a notable dealer, fixed by me for a leaking line, still starts cycling after less than 3 miles of driving. Charge has been checked, adjusted. This one shows a swing on low side pressure though indicating the expansion valve doing some work. Cycling never was worried about by the customer. A concern but not worth the fix as they were comfortable in the vehicle.

53 Chevy Bel air, Mark 4, Cycled about 2 miles into drive. For airflow this surpassed the Slimline though, I find that the AC only units will get down to cold fast, this one followed that rule. This one was minimal changes in low side pressures. Still had some changes. Out of my last few vehicles this one cooled the best.

56 Ford Pickup, mark 4, this one will take a bit to start cycling, the condenser on this one is a bit smaller than the last 2 listed, It's pressures actually fluctuate on low side showing a working expansion valve to hit superheat correctly.

56 Dodge pickup, Started with a VA mini, heat and cool only, did fine at idle. Driving down the road from a fresh start hot interior, it would cycle in the first 500-1500 feet of driving, it was super efficient at getting to temp 39 deg vent temp, we thought it was an airflow issue, so ditched the Mini, put in a brand new Heritage underdash. Unit damn sure put out more airflow, but the problem went to 3k feet for its first cycle. The mini had a working expansion valve showing pressure fluctuations, the Heritage, NOT a single move from 9 psi. Add refrigerant, still steady. This truck had a large condenser. 24x24 roughly. By VA specs this truck was performing as needed. This is my last install I did. I think the large condenser on this truck actually made the AC too efficient ? Who knows. Best interior temp reduction was 10 degrees lower than ambient. So when its 105 outside, it was 95 inside. Only time I ever got a over 20 deg reduction in interior temps, was upon removing the probe from the Mini and letting it run full tilt. It froze up multiple times and that sucked so I put the probe back in.

This is my experience from Hot and Humid Houston TX.

My next will be an old r12 evap converted to 134 under dash with an expansion valve that will actually do what it's supposed to do and maintain proper evap temp.

Let me be clear, I like what VA has done, and I think their units are well built, I have never had a actuator failure come in or a quality issue with the unit bursting open etc. Their Evap core seems to be great quality also. My experience down here has been down right miserable. This is my feeling, the expansion valve is the main issue with their units hands down. Its funny every install I have done the vent temps always went down to lowest in 1 minute roughly.

 

Interesting. Thanks for sharing your experience. I’m in Fort Worth so it gets pretty hot for me too.