Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

By the diagram, your IGN 1 and IGN 2 both go to the coil (thinking Rebel COIL wire would connect to IGN 1), with a second wire off IGN 1 going to the fuse block (the IGN SW IGN wire from the Rebel should connect to IGN 2). Others are self-explanatory, other than the absence of a GND lug on the Rebel list. Assuming you would run a wire from switch GND to a good ground point under the dash.

This comes from a MECHANICAL engineer. I stayed away from electrical for a reason.....

 

Here ya go... This assumes you're wiring the car to match the harness diagram as shown. If you're using an aftermarket ignition or gauges instead of idiot lights, that may change some of the connections.

BAT is incoming 12V power to the switch. ACC is power to the switched half of your fuse panel. SOL goes to the neutral safety switch. IGN 1 goes two places; one wire to the ballast resistor for the ignition, the other feeds the fuel gauge and oil, generator and temperature lights. IGN 2 is the ballast resistor bypass and goes directly to the ignition coil. GRD is t-connected to the wire coming from the temp sending unit to the temp light.

Checking the switch with a VOM for continuity, with the switch OFF there should be no continuity between any terminals. In the ACC position, it should read between the BAT and ACC terminals. In the ON position, it should read between the BAT, ACC and IGN 1 terminals. In the START position, it should read between the BATT, SOL and IGN 2 terminals. The GRD terminal shouldn't read to any of the other terminals in any switch position. However, in the START position it should read to ground, i.e. the metal switch body. This is to light the temperature light in the START position only as a test to show the lamp is working. Under normal operating, the light will only come on if the motor overheats.

 

Thanks for the replies, I’m wiring it to use all the standard switches, the engine is a later model rover 3.5 with a electronic dizzy and coil and I will add a few gauges to keep an eye on temps

 

Thanks

 

Can you check over my images please

 

@REBEL43 Jeremy,
I plan to use your 9+3 kit and headlight relay kit #RW5005HRK kit for my Model A sedan.
A few questions:

1) The car has no radio or heat or A/C, so can I use those circuits- plus the spares- for electric fuel pump (Carter P4070, no relay), electric choke, overdrive lockup, neutral safety, and a USB port?

2) When ordering online, how do I ask for (a) Alliance Discount, (b) 3 7/8" steering column connector?

3) How do I know if I need a 3-pin or 2-pin flasher relay?

4) How do I wire all the gauge lights in parallel- Do I need a terminal strip to do that?

5) I'm mounting the fuse panel above the passenger side toe board (see picture below). Is there enough wire to reach all the components?

Thanks,
Gary Burkholder

 

@Just Gary
Jeremy hasn't been here in a while. You might start a conversation, that should send him an email notification, and ask him to check in here.
In the meantime I'll do my best to answer some of your questions.
1. Yes, you can use any available unused fuse for your other misc circuits. I use a label maker to mark the circuits, for my future memory.
2.
3. I believe a two pun flasher is used when you have no interior light to remind you the signal is flashing. If your turn signal switch has a light, or if you want to incorporate lights in the dash, use a 3 prong flasher.
4. A terminal strip would work, or some rodders daisy chain them together.
5. A Model A is pretty small, you should have plenty of wire.

I hope this helps.

 

Is that the whole kit? Based on other HAMB wiring threads you are missing a mile and a half off wire to have a street legal car.

 

Let me know what happens with this Gary. I would like to re wire my Model A with that kit this winter. I am still on the fence, and I hate wiring,

 

Thanks- that helps a lot. I emailed him at the Rebel Wire website.

No- just the opposite! That's just the MSD box wiring. The fuse panel will be added on the right, where the coil of wire currently is.

Absolutely! Be happy to share my trials & tribulations.

 

Just so we know as we follow along are you a NASA Space Shuttle electrician or just as confused as I am?

 

I have a Batchelor's degree in Mechanical Engineering, a Master's in Aero Engineering, and I hate electricity with a passion.

 

Last part of the build, I can understand that. Good luck.

Bob

 

@The37Kid , I reread this whole thread yesterday, and I must say, your consistent avowed dislike for and fear of electricity is amusing, but makes me wonder why you don't just go old school diesel with air start?
How the heck do you even connect a battery on your stuff, including a flashlight (torch for the tea sippers)?
Most things in the car operate the same way. Battery power, switch, component using the power and something connecting it all.

 

The Rebel kit can be whatever you want it to be. You just need to make sure whatever you're running is ok with the size wire you're using.

I used the 9+3 on 2 panel trucks (I have another hidden away for another car also) because it has a radio and heater and the other circuits that weren't used went for something else or just eliminated.

 

Over the years I've read most electrical threads on the HAMB. Not having the knowledge of how it works and the constant correction of how things are done I just gave up. Name ANY electrical related topic and there are several ways of doing everything, putting your money on any reply and having it contested by another, just isn't worth the risk of the fire. There is no rule about finishing a project and driving it. The good times were back in the 1970's, body repair, and painting other peoples Classics, Great Tines.

 

I get it, it seems like comments on what should be solid, simple answers end up being "which Green is best? " arguments.
The fire thing you always fall back on is unrealistic, though. There are guidelines that can be followed to prevent you from overloading a circuit and causing a fire. If you connect your 12 volt battery to ground and the starter with speaker wire, then turn the key, it will overload. There will be heat and the insulation or wire will melt. This is just like sticking a paper clip in wall socket.

The arguments are usually about if single ought cable from the trunk is good enough or you want double ought or welding wire or automotive wire. Other arguments are usually of this same type. There isn't anyone putting forward that speaker wire is good. Only that one person wants 100 percent safe, another wants 125 for the rare but possible, and another thinks anything under 150 is rolling the dice.

There are reasons for each position, but it's all not going to immediately cause a melt down. It's degrees of a level of safety above normal operation.

Which wire is best? It depends on the exact use. If one fit all possible uses BEST, the others would not be made.

 

Is there more scrap value in one or are they all the same?

 

Obviously #9.

 

Need some wiring assistance.
I am trying to wire up my engine to hear it run with a push button to my duraspark.
I'm using the Painless duraspark kit 30812 and have it wired up per the diagram inplace of the ignition switch I have a momentary switch. I push the button and nothing happens. I was able to get it to start with a hot wire from the bat to the switch but it would die the second I let go of the button.
This is the only wiring I have in the car right now

 

I don't think a momentary switch is a replacement for the functions of an ignition switch.
The momentary switch interups the hot lead to the coil as soon as you let it go to off.

 

kind of figured that much

 

What pprather said and as shown you have no power supply to your switch. I would go with a toggle and your momentary, you'll need a supply wire from the battery terminal on solenoid to both switches then from other side of toggle to resistor, other side of momentary to solenoid S terminal.

 

Quick and crude but should explain

 

Something else is off in the wiring. The switch they show is just the starting circuit and should be not powered with the key returning to the "on" position. So a push button would work, just to crank the engine. Something else needs to be sending continuous power to the coil and box (big red wires in diagram) with the key switch "on" and something else needs to be supplying the switch with battery power.

 

Which is why @24riverview added a toggle switch to turn on power to the ballast!

 

Yup, see that now.......too focused on the 1st pic.

 

Skinny red wire coming from the starter terminal on the solenoid then to the on/ off switch. Bigger faded red wire to the s terminal and blue wire to the ballast.
Can't figure out if my new starter is junk or if I wired it wrong all I'm getting is solenoid click.
I had to use the persuader last time but it doesn't seem to help this time