If that is the case, I'd run a 400 jr. The 404-A is an even better cam, but it takes special radius lifters, takes special installation tools and requires fairly frequent inspection/maintenance. So, go with the JR!
Agree once again with B&S. 400Jr would be my choice if Isky has to be it. HotRodMickey on here has run a lot of cams. He's run both the 400Jr & 404-A. I believe he said there is a Schneider Cam that is close to the 404-A spec wise, doesn't require radius lifters and actually ran better. I'll try to find his post.
Thanks for the cam recommendation. I’m building an engine cradle that I’ll turn into a run stand for the flatheads.
You should have your water pumps rebuilt/updated by "Skip" down in Punta-Gorda. He puts sealed roller bearings in the castings and has an improved impeller that pumps a lot more water. This is all the more important when you're running a big-cube motor as the cylinder walls are thinner and the added horsepower creates more heat. You should put the crank in the block with a rod and piston pin in each bank - to determine the exact compression height you'll need for your pistons. Don't do this until the machine shop has checked the deck height and probably 'square decked' the block. You can then determine the center of the pin location from the new deck surface and this number (the compression height) can be specified with Ross - such that you get pistons that are exactly where you need them as compared to the deck and head chambers. You'll want .040 to .045 above the piston - to the head chamber (with a gasket in place). Run Stand: Nice work! Only use this to start the engine, make sure you have oil-pressure, bring it up to temp and check for leaks. Do not make the mistake of running it a bunch on the stand (even though folks think it is fun/cool). If you don't put the engine under load, then the rings won't correctly seat in the bores -- so get it off the stand and into a car to complete the break-in cycle. Also, what size did your bores measure out to? I'll look for some metric ring sizes - that you'd want to give to Ross as well. You're best off to end up with metric rings and a metric piston size -- don't just go to 3.375 because that is what they did "back in the day". We have much better ring packages today . . . make sure you use them! Okay . . . back to work . . . enough babble out of me!
Dale, Skip on uses bearings on the later pumps. Early pumps still get bushings. I can attest to how well his impeller design works. I had to REMOVE the fan from my flathead in order to get it to run in the 180's-190's. I have 180 stats in the heads and with the fan, it won't go over 160.
Hmmmm . . . that is not what he told me, now I need to find out. Either way, I've had his pumps on my 286 motor in my CAB for 6 years - have not leaked a drop of water. On regular pumps, they just didn't last that long!
I have them as well and now I'm doubting my memory. I'm almost certainly he uses the bushing on the 59 AB style pumps. One of my pumps, the shaft started to thrust forward upon acceleration and spray some water out. Skip fixed it promptly and for no charge. He is a great asset to our hobby.
Block is ready for its final honing. Crank is back from the race shop. New rods, bearings, race pistons, and Moly rings are going in it. Haven’t decided on which oil pan to use. I like the one with the removable section to replace a clutch without pulling the oil pan
Hopefully you have the complete reciprocating assembly balanced. Which CAM are you going to run? I'd be thinking about a Potvin 3/8 . . . Did you have the block decks checked? Make sure you measure the compression height so you can get pistons with the pin in the right location. Buying standard "stocking pistons" is usually not the way to go. Best of luck!
Yes I will get it balanced after I mock the motor up and check clearances. undecided on the cam but thinking about the Isky 400jr. I know nothing about the potvin cams. Never heard of them never seen them anywhere. Who knows what cam I pulled out of the motor, maybe it’s a potvin or something custom made. My goal with this flathead is to sound great at idle and drive it around town. No rapid acceleration or high rpm’s. I’ll see what I can learn about the potvin cam company and decide later. thanks for all of your advice and help with the flathead. I never expected a 296 bored and stroked version of the 59a.
The 400 Jr is a good grind - as long as Isky delivers a quality product. They've had some issues in recent times - hopefully they've got them resolved. I would definitely check it out with a degree wheel! In the flathead world, Potvin was one of the biggest cam providers back in the day. The two most popular grinds were the Potvin 3/8 and Potvin 425 Eliminator. You have enough cubic inches to run either one. If it was me, I'd have Pete at D&D regrind one of your stock cores -- he does exceptional work. I know he grinds the Isky 1007B, he probably also has the 400 Jr. He grinds all of my flat-tappet flathead grinds. You should send a message to Pete - seeing what he thinks. His handle on here is "Pete1". He is about the smartest guy I know when it comes to flathead cams and performance engineering in general. Well worth getting his opinion. Best of luck! B&S
I'm running a 59A with the two piece oil pan and its the only way to go. It saved me from pulling the engine several times.
The two-piece oil pan will not do you any good unless you have the engine/trans in a chassis that makes it possible to remove the transmission while the engine is still in place. If you're running a stock 32 K-member, then I always pull BOTH at the same time - is really about the only viable way to get to the clutch.
I’ll message Pete about the flathead cams. I’m open to suggestions and advice on this motor. It’s not like the usual motors I’ve built. Never seen a full floating rod. Seems weird. I like the two piece oil pan just for the fact I can put the pan on and the flywheel afterwards. It will allow clutch inspection while still in the car.
I run the Potvin 3/8 in a motor very similar to yours. 292 ci. Cam sounds great, runs great and can do a low speed creep or a high speed pass. Spins the tires in 2nd if you floor it. I would strongly recommend an aluminum or lightened steel flywheel as well.
If you're assembling the motor, pay particular attention to making sure the bearings are truly floating. There are not many machine shops or people with experience with full-floater rods. Here is a short video I made a few years ago to help you with the procedure: (4) Flathead Ford 21A - Full Floating Rod Bearing Sizing - YouTube Before I start the process, I use a bearing mic to measure the thickness of the shells, then the crank journal and then the rod bores to determine my clearances. You want at least a total .002 minimum - preferable .0025. Plastigauge is barely "okay" for checking - as it really wasn't designed for full-floaters. Once you've got them floating as they should, install one rod and a set of bearings on each journal and make sure you can move the rod back-n-forth a bit and can easily spin the bearing on the journal and inside the rod. Remember "loose is good", tight is not! LOL
If you want a steel flywheel, you can contact RAM and they can make you a billet one that is about 26 lbs. I like a billet flywheel instead of a lightened cast one (they make me nervous!).
Pete really knows his stuff on these Flathead engines . He reground a cam for my 49 Merc engine,,,,it was a work of art ! Almost looked like a brand new cam,,,,,,really excellent quality . It was a 3/8 Potvin profile,,,,,,supposed to be the best choice for my stated application . Tommy
I have a 59A that has the factory relief ( as you have) and I asked Pete for a recommendation for a cam. MY engine is .080 over with a stock stroke and Pete provided a 1007B. I've run 4 heat cycles to start break-in and check oil press. and for water leaks. It'll be a while before I can drive the p/u it's installed in. I can't wait.
Yes - for a lower cubic inch street engine, the 1007B is a very good cam - especially if Pete grinds it.
I talked to Pete about a cam recommendation for my 296 flathead. He is going to grind one of my stock cores to the 3/8 cam. I’m going that route. I’m fabricating the missing clutch inspection cover for the 2 piece oil pan. Just have to weld it up
Things have gone sour again. The big bore block has too much piston to bore clearance (between .005-.008). Max should be .004. The first block with the cracked water pump area has the wrong center main cap. The other two blocks have a cracked cylinder wall. I’m batting zero out of 5 so far.
As long as there's no taper you could order up a set of Ross pistons like B&S suggested and be the better off, I'd think. If they need bored I guess it's only money.
This. If everything else checks out with the block, I'd give them a call to see what they say. I had to get custom pistons made for mine. I believe it was a $250 overcharge and it took 6 weeks total time from order to arrival.
I have block #4 back from the machine shop. This was the block that was .100 over but a cracked #1 cylinder. I had it sleeved and bore to 3.375. Sonic tested, magged, and decked. The 4-1/8” crank was turned and polished. Finally received my H-beam rods from scat. My stock cam and Isky lifters were sent to Pete for the Potvin 3/8 grind. I will mock up the crank, rods, and pistons in the block and then get everything balanced.
The Jalopy Journal
