Technical Lowering 1953 Bel Air: Best way to remove springs?

I've just received a 3'' lowering kit (springs, shocks, and blocks for the rear) for my 1953 Bel Air sedan.

I've reviewed the shop manual and online posts/videos about removing front springs. I intend to use a floor jack underneath the a-arm to lower the spring out.

My question is the best approach for lowering that a-arm. After removing the stabilizer link, some information online suggests to remove the inner 4 bolts from the a-arm to lower it from the center of the car. Other information online suggests to remove the lower bolt from the spindle/upright to lower the a-arm from the outside of the car.

What method is recommended? I've never done this before, so I'm trying to gather up as much information as possible. If any of you have photos or videos that you can share of the process I'd love to see them. Thanks!

 

Chevy recommends removing the lower inner arm attaching bolts...but what do they know...they only built the car...

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1949_53/03front/3_10.HTM

 

Yep, fair enough. Minding that, I saw a couple couple posts about people getting hung up when doing the bolts on the inner arm which is why I wanted to discuss it further to assess my options.

 

I can see how that might happen. Using long tapered punches to replace two bolts might help. I think it also requires the car to be supported pretty high up....but a positive is that you don't have to disassemble the funky outer control arm bushings

 

Are you sure the front needs lowered yet?

 

These jobs often are attacked by what else is going to be done at the same time. Inner bushings? Outer bushings or ball joints? Arm out for clean/paint? full brake replacement?
The other operations will dictate how deep to go and which end (or both) is done.
I've seen factory procedures that have lead people astray, but it's pretty rare.

 

That's a fair point. I've just gotten the car back on the road for the first time since ~1980. I've just finished a full brake redo. At some point in the future I will need to do all the bushings as well. For now it drives well, and I'm really just trying to get it moving this summer as we can sometimes start seeing snow at the end of September, lol. So all that being said, I'm looking to dive into the suspension as lightly as possible to try and just get the new springs/shocks in and get it back on the road. Thoughts?

 

@Summit_PG , I confess I don't have a 50s Chevy, so the other guys can guide you on this specific job better.
As I noted, factory is usually the way to go, unless your are trying to beat book time (no, you are not) or it's some combo job (again, not this time).

Let us know how it all turns out.

 

I've used the blue tip wrench more than once removing springs. Much easier and safer to take them apart with no tension on them.

 

The pfd of the full 53/54 service manual is here https://www.rcamoto.com.br/autosantigos/pdf_zip/1949 - 1954 Chevy Shop Manual.pdf

Removing the front spring is on page 72. As Jim aka Squirrel said, the factory method is to remove the lower control arm shaft bolts and drop the A arm from the inside rather than the outside as we normally do on most later suspension.
I'm thinking that you will have less hassle putting the new and shorter springs in than taking the old ones out. A helper working the jack who is damned good at doing exactly what you say when you tell them to do it goes a long way in this job.

 

If my memory is right, on my 52 Chevy Ute I think that I loosened the top upright and lowered the lower arm and upright/spindle assy together. Put a chain through coil (I always do this) for safety. Use a floor jack and lower until you can get the spring out. Might require a little crow bar to help the spring out of the pocket. Putting the shorter replacement spring is just reverse the process.

 

Written for the flat rate book to increase mechanics income. In reality loosen the nut on the bottom ball joint about 1/4" take a couple 2-3 pound hammers - hold one on the side of the A arm and smack the opposite side. It may take a few hits but has always worked. Then jack up the lower arm, take the nut off and lower the arm.

 

This is how I did my 52 when I swapped the uprights that were modified by Buffalo

 

this is the only way I do it period

 

first off... there no such thing as a 3'' lowering spring.... your 53 has , like me, 70 yr old springs... the 3 '' lowering spring will probley get you to the same ride height you are right now... if you put new stock springs it'll lift it 2'' or more.....so big disappointment is comming when you do all this.. Ive lowered 1000's of cars at my muffler shop...new springs is the last way to go...

 

correct, and with all the 70 year old worn out stuuff, it's already lowered 3'' I parked next to a 53 that had all new stock suspension.... I was like 7'' lower in the front

 

this!!!!! spot on.... heat the spring first till the energy is gone and it will fall out, but like said... the 3'' lowering springs won't lower the car 3'', and here's how the conversation will go,... hey this is so&so, I just bought 3'' lowering springs for my 53,... when I put them , car sits the same...answer: the springs are lower than new 53 springs, your stock one were worn out and sagged ,... keep in mind also, that if you buy new stock springs the front will come up 3'' or so....

so whqat I would do, is do it like they have for 70 years,..find someone that knows how to heat the spring, and yes there is a right and wrong way, you make a dime size spot up in the middle of the spring stack, that'll lower it bout 1-1 1/2" do the rear first and lower it to look good.. I've done hundreds of these, with 100% success... in fact, I've done 100's where people were in the same spot as you... I charge 20 bucks a side... with the guaranty that if it doesn't work, the 40 bucks will go to the install of the new springs.... in 40 plus years, never had to change the springs... the one thing that happens with the lowerd replace ment springs, now you have too much up travel and end up dragging pan on hard bumps...

 

I use a spring compressor (4 hook type) that goes through the lower arm most of the time. Moog used to make a set of "C" clips, put those on the inside of the spring while the spring is in place and it puts an "arc" into the spring, makes it safer to remove. I have also used the blue wrench, with everything else still attached. I have a spring job coming up on my Belair shortly.

 

1953 Chevrolets don't have ball joints. They use a kingpin setup similar to a solid I beam truck axle. So you can't take them apart like a ball joint car. The manual states to remove the A arm because of the kingpin setup, not because it makes more work for the mechanic.

 

remember back in the day they sold those to lower the car or raise it.... I'm personaly not gonna waist my time taking junk springs out.... blue wrench first... but... even if you are gonna put new springs.. if you lower it first by heating the spring, you get to see how it looks... then drive it and see how it rides and handles.... thats where no one ever comes back to get the new springs installed... when you have less coils... like in the guys that take them out and cut them...when the coil is bound it's not tall enough, lets the suspension go way past bottom...

 

here's a nother thing if any of you wander off to the mustang 2 ranch...beware.... don't install the cross member the way they send it.... needs to be moved up unless you are looking for the gasser look.. then you end up having to add drop spindles...

 

I haven't done this exact car, but I always disconnect the ball joint from the spindle and remove the spring that way.

 

as was mentioned a few times, there are no ball joints on pre-55 chevys

 

NO BALL JOINTS on 49-54 Chevs

 

Like I said, I've never done that model of car. I also didn't read the whole thread.

If we're picking at things, it has been discussed before too.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/49-chevy-spring-removal.587995/

 

Yuppers 49/54 had uprights with kingpin and the spindle swiveled on the king pin just as it would on a straight axle.

 

I had a 51 Chev for about 15 years........had to pull the front end apart once.........jacked up car, removed wheels & placed them under frame as safety, then jacked up the car & placed car on jack stands on the chassis, used a floor jack underneath the outer end of the lower A arm & raised to take some tension off the spring/lower A arm, undo the sway bar link from the lower A arm then undo the lower outer bushing pin(bolt) and slowly lower the jack with the lower A arm until the spring starts to become loose in the spring pocket.....depending on the age/tension in the spring it may be loose or may require a gentle tap/prise away from the lower A arm.......install new spring and raise the jack with the lower A arm compressing the spring until it reaches the spindle/ lower outer bushing and install pin.......
...........under no circumstances get under the car before jack stands and tyres are placed under the chassis....
...........ideally have a 2nd person around or nearby.......
............cars don't have to be on the road doing 100mph to kill you........
regards from Oztralia
....andyd

 

Here’s my advice: don’t touch it until snow flies. I have yet to have even the simplest project goes as planned and in the time frame I hoped for. Just drive it and enjoy it for the next 2 months, you can wait.

 

I realize that it’s not the perfect answer but for temporary use you could heat the springs with a torch, it’s been done many a time.