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Technical Setting glass tape or caulking?

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by spillaneswillys, Jul 15, 2024.

  1. In a month ( I hope) I look to be putting the glass in my 39 Plymouth coupe. It is all cut and ready and I am going to set it in from the inside in butyl tape or caulking. I would like to use tape as I know how messy caulking can be. Looking for suggestions and tips. Thanks Joe
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,682

    squirrel
    Member

    Are you using the original type rubber weatherstrip also?
     
  3. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,884

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    If you are gluing in the glass? you need to use window urethane caulk. Butyl tape sucks as an adhesive
     
    Blade58 likes this.
  4. I am using no original rubber. I use butyl tape in construction for setting windows. I am good with caulking and I thought that was the way to go. I was hoping to get away from black urethane.
     
  5. Windshield?
    Door glass?
    Side glass?
    All?
    Caulking? What type
     
    Lloyd's paint & glass likes this.
  6. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,472

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just use the setting tape from upholstery are glass shop. Setting tape is easy and no mess. If thr glass channel is a bit wide place it in the vice and mash it a little. Just along the top edge. Are double the setting tape. Glass cleaner makes the setting tape slick. It’s done.
     
    Driver50x likes this.
  7. SS327
    Joined: Sep 11, 2017
    Posts: 3,801

    SS327

    Do not put the glass in from inside! It will end up in you face at high speeds!
     
  8. '29 Gizmo
    Joined: Nov 6, 2022
    Posts: 1,159

    '29 Gizmo
    Member
    from UK

    If it sits in a channel then tape. Otherwise it's realy difficult to replace if you have to.
     
    rockable, Driver50x and squirrel like this.
  9. RMR&C
    Joined: Dec 26, 2009
    Posts: 4,884

    RMR&C
    Member
    from NW Montana

    Some confusion here about what exactly you are trying to do? Please give some more details
     
  10. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,784

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I put my door and wing windows in using urethane caulk. I just set the glass in the channels before caulking, and used blue painter's masking tape to mask the glass off at the channel edge first. Then took the glass out and filled the channels with caulk and set the glass. I wiped off the excess while it was wet, and once dried I peeled off the tape and had a nice clean edge and glass.
     
    seb fontana, A 2 B and alanp561 like this.
  11. It is all going in from the inside. The windshield will have the garnish molding behind it.
     
    onetrickpony likes this.
  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,682

    squirrel
    Member

    The garnish molding is designed to have the thickness of the rubber gasket on both sides of the glass, isn't it?
     
  13. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 6,054

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    I think there's probably a reason why every automotive windshield is mounted on a flange from the outside ..
     
  14. Post pics
    Sounds goofy for a windshield but I don’t mind being wrong

    but using a soft product like butyl or “caulk” sounds like a recipe for a leak on a windshield mounted on the inside
     
    Tow Truck Tom and 2OLD2FAST like this.
  15. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,682

    squirrel
    Member

    uh...have you worked on 30s/40s cars that have the glass mounted in rubber from the inside? That's how they were designed. But they were designed to use a rubber seal, with a channel for the glass, and another for the body flange.

    Trying to get away from the original design makes things more challenging
     
  16. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 9,166

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Butyl tape may work if you can get the glass in place and hold it till you can get the molding on? Remember that the glass area [pinch weld] my not be as flat [or visa/versa] as the glass.
     
  17. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 3,606

    twenty8
    Member

    This might be a silly question but is the windshield standard size for the original channel rubber or is it cut to a custom size to suit it being a bonded fit?
     
    squirrel likes this.
  18. Dunno about other cars but 30's - 40's mopar used the front screens mounted into a rubber channel with this on the inside with a rope/cord around the rubber and the rubber held against the body lip and the cord pulled thru the front which "levers" the seal lip over the body lip and the screen is installed......usually some sort of non hardening mastic is squirted under the rubber seal around its perimeter........this method applied to the rear screens and any fixed side windows also........windows that were wound up & down were installed in setting tape or a rubber piece in the metal channel which was a tight or interference fit..........obviously nowadays there are different materials available and the use of them will depend on lots of factors........
    .........I had a local glass guy cut & install new replacement front screens in my 1940 Dodge a couple of years ago & he was adament that no sealer needed to be used, just the rubber against the body lip, the rubber would be enough to stop water ingress after argueing this with him I just let him not do it and went around the seal went I got home with a non hardening mastic sealer.........no water has got in so far.....andyd
     
    twenty8 likes this.
  19. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,739

    choptop40
    Member

    Use the original rubber and drawstring method.. Gluing it in is not neccesary..waste of time and money
     
    2OLD2FAST likes this.
  20. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 6,054

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Never saw a " glass inside the flange" mounting .
     
  21. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,682

    squirrel
    Member

    well, you've been missing out on a lot of fun.

    Here's the Chevy version

    glass.jpg
     
    INVISIBLEKID likes this.
  22. INVISIBLEKID
    Joined: Jun 19, 2006
    Posts: 2,647

    INVISIBLEKID
    Member
    from Gilroy,CA

    Mercury is the same..... ^
     
  23. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,682

    squirrel
    Member

    this is the 39 plymouth manual....just for reference

    glass1.jpg glass2.jpg
     
  24. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,192

    BJR
    Member

    Get the windshield glass cut oversize so it will sit on the pinch weld. Then with urethane adhesive calk, run a bead all around the pinch weld. Place the glass into place with spacers under the bottom edge to keep the glass centered on the pinch weld, and press into place so the glass seals to the urethane calk. After it dries use more urethane or some trim to finish out the edges of the glass to the body. All of this should be done on the outside of the pinch weld not the inside!
     
    squirrel likes this.
  25. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,682

    squirrel
    Member

    That's how to do it "modern". Also figure out how to fill the 1/2" to 3/4" gap between the pinch weld and the garnish molding.
     
  26. twenty8
    Joined: Apr 8, 2021
    Posts: 3,606

    twenty8
    Member

    Backing rod........???o_O:D

    If you do it the proper old fashioned way it will look like it should.
     
  27. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 6,054

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Haven't yet & will continue to miss out :D
     
    JohnLewis likes this.
  28. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,784

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    I used the factory style weatherstrip on my windshield, and back glass. Back glass on my '39 Chev went in from inside, and then the weatherstrip lip gets worked over the metal lip to install it.
    The windshield is a bit of a task as being two halves, and fighting in each half separately. Plus once one side is in it tends to put pressure towards the center divider and makes the 2nd half even more fun! Then I had to install the SS trim strip down the outside and a metal strip down the inside to finish the center seal.
    I personally wouldn't do urethane on windshield or back glass as there's no trim once it's done that way. You end up with just the edge of the glass and nothing to finish it off when done. Smacks of modern cars, not traditional car glass.
     
  29. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,671

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    I think there’s several topics all being jumbled together at once here.
    It’s rather confusing.
    Is this about setting the roll up side glass in the channel?
    Is this about setting stationary glass on the side?
    Is this about windshields and rear glass?
    Is this about caulking side glass into the frames?
    Is this about caulking windshields and rear lights?

    I guess it’s about all of this.

    Default to the method that the factory used when the car was made.
    Default to the method that the factory shop manual recommends.
    It’s really pretty simple.

    Gluing glass into vent frames and side frames is never a good idea. These were set with rubber tape.
    Why is this a bad idea?
    Well, you will never ever get the glass out without breaking it or the frame it’s glued in to.

    Oversized glass???
    Urethane caulk on windshields and back lights?
    Does this match what the factory did?

    In my opinion permanently gluing glass in place is a bad idea.
    These old cars were designed so the glass could be removed without destroying it.
    A good example is changing out one side of a flat glass windshield. If it’s glued in, both sides will be destroyed.
     

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