Hot Rods Another master cylinder question

Brake bias is not the same as applying the rear first.

Have a nice day.

 

Now how can I have a nice day when you are spewing non-sense to the rest of the board?

Why do you think a METERING VALVE is used on DISC/DRUM?

Maybe print this out and take it with you to read while taking the dailly constitution - https://www.autodata-training.com/n...-bias-and-how-it-affects-braking-performance/

 

https://mpbrakes.com/support/faqs/#1656594349542-f0ec5a98-f11e
https://mpbrakes.com/how-to-series-how-does-a-master-cylinder-work/
https://mpbrakes.com/different-types-brake-valves/

I retract my early statement about the master cylinder timing, they DO NOT. BUT, the combination valve does. Rears brakes should activate sooner in hard stops. Read the #3 above.

 

Not an ignorant question.

SYSTEM DESIGN and period also has a lot to do with it. GM design varies with FORD for instance. You mix the two systems on a swap and you have to allow for those differences.

This where these so-called 'SWAP KITS' gets so many in trouble.

 

In 7th grade I was too busy getting into your sister’s panties, pardon my ignorance.

 

The metering valve delays the front disc brakes to allow the rear to overcome spring pressure so they all start to apply evenly to prevent the front from nose diving not to allow the rear to apply first.

Again the articles say nothing about the rear applying first, just delaying the front so they can catch up.

 

BRAKE BIAS on a four wheel drum brake car is controlled in the initial engineering (regardless of MC type). The front brakes are larger and more aggressive than the rear. That should control a hard take-down (if the system is maintained properly).

The FRT DISC on a disc/drum car is way more aggressive and that is the purpose of a METERING VALVE, to hold off DISC application until the ear
drum activates.

EDIT - Allow me to expand on this statement -

When you mount a DUAL RSVR MC on a previous SGL RSVR DRUM car, you are making a modification to the system. The complete system was engineered to operate correctly with the original style MC.

You have to at the least match the piston bore size with the replacing MC as was used in the original MC or it can affect BRAKE BIAS.

 

Your ignorance is self inflicted by posting something as childish as you just did.

BTW- I had a brother, not a sister. Do you have some type of gender identity dysphobia? I am sure he would have set you right.

No use being one if you cannot act like one, right?

 

OH!

BTW - That 59 rust bucket that you posted a photo of is one ugly SOB with that bumper on the front of it. Most likely explains why you don't know the difference between sexes and cars.

 

Ah yes! Thank you for clearing that up

 

A COMBINATION VALVE (or any valving) is rarely used on a drum/drum application. BRAKE BALANCE is controlled by differing brake sizes on the front and rear axles.

Rear brakes activate last in a hard stop (if it has a PRO-PORTIONG VALVE). If four wheel drum, brake sizing controls it). If they lock you are going to experience riding a TILT-A-WHIRL out of your windshield.

A COMBINATION VALE consists of two or more valve types in one block. Now which of those valves (and design varies) is responsible for preventing rear wheel lock-up?

 

HEY!

No problem. Now do you know the difference(s) between a male/female or something in between?

 

Come to think of it, this pertains to heavy trucks, and similarly to motorcycles, at least this is what I was taught. Also, this was at a time when automatic slack adjusters on trucks were not yet legislated. Not applicable to cars apparently.

 

I was giving thanks to @57 Fargo

 

CORRECT. Now read the description of a PROPORTIONING VALVE on a DISC/DRUM or DISC/DISC SYSTEM.

You-re getting there, slowly but surely.

 

OH!

I understand now. He is a guy (presumably).

 

This statement is ambiguous at best.
"Rear brakes activate to a lesser degree in a hard stop" or "Rear brakes lock up last in a hard stop" would be a whole lot less confusing, and much more accurate.........
My turn............ insult away.

 

Now let me ask you a question and try to stay with me, OK?

On a TRACTOR-TRAILER, when you hit the foot valve, which brakes on which axle apply first?

HINT - STEER -DRIVE -TRAILER

On a motorcycle (as on a bicycle - front and rear handbrake), if you actuate the front brake first, what is likely to happen?

 

COLLEGE WORD - Misspelled but fancy ...

Are we discussing DISC/DRUM or DRUM/DRUM?

I usually am insulted first before I throw them out.

 

Heck now we’re on air brakes and back to disc brakes again on a drum brake question

this place never disappoints.

Air plans can use flaps to slow down.

might as well expand the discussion

 

Thanks, I'll fix it.
Sounds like a fun game............... Would that be 2-1 to me?

 

Air plane engines also have reverse thrust!

 

Applying the front brake will transfer weight to the front tire, greatly increasing its ability to slow the bike without locking up. While both front and rear brakes should be applied together, the front should do around 70% of the braking work, so more pressure should be applied to the front brakes by the "proportioning valve" (yes, I am talking about the rider). To maintain the ability to steer the bike in hard or emergency braking situations, feathering of the front lever is required to avoid lockup. Locking the rear tire will cause instability and possible loss of control, and should be avoided. Newer bikes can have ABS to control lockup, but the proportioning of pressure is still the job of the rider.
Notice how similar it is to braking in a car (except you don't have to be the proportioning valve).

How did I do, and by the way, do you ride?

 

And they also have AIR BRAKES to slow and stop.

When the flaps are lowered, you cut the fuel in and out to the engine(s) so it sounds like an ENGINE BRAKE coming in.

Waiting to see the reply to this one ...

 

Let me try this another way -

IF the front handbrake is applied before the rear handbrake, what is likely to happen to the rider? And how many bad moves will it take for a novice rider to make before he begins to realize what brake bias really is?

That's your assignment for tonight ...

You're doing better. The only thing I will be riding soon is a wheelchair.

 

Sexual innuendos are not allowed here.

 

I think re-entry might be a good subject to discuss also.

GOD only knows how many here need to come out of orbit for re-fueling.

Your thoughts?

Braking is not that difficult to understand. I am a THIRD GRADE GRADUATE (TWO TOURS) and can figure it out.

NOTE - Never mud wrestle with a pig as he/she enjoys it too much.

 

If the rider is searching for the "rear handbrake" while riding, the most likely outcome will be injury or death.

One of the best lessons a novice rider can learn is front/rear brake bias, and the fact that they must supply the bias themselves, but brake bias has nothing to do with whether the front or rear brakes apply first.

If you are going to jump on the rear brake pedal first in an emergency situation, you had better make sure you don't lock the rear tire up or you just might end up in that wheelchair. Locking the rear can destabilize things very quickly.

 

Must be really lonely in Penn. ....

 

Especially in a town called Blue Balls