Technical SBC 350 Getting Hot on Highway

The thermostat causes the engine to warm up faster and then maintains the minimum operating temperature.
It has nothing to do with temperatures above that.

 

THANK YOU, SIR.

Ben

 

isn't that what I post???? so anyway... THANKYOU SIR

 

LOL. Yes sir. Semantics?

Ben

 

Have you considered this for your new avatar 2FORCEFULL? Asking for a friend...

 

I don't know. It may have been. I can't be sure..........

 

I wonder how he got that handle ?

 

This thread has really gone of the rails.

We will probably never know if the OP came up with a solution.

I think the OP is too afraid to come back, don't blame him.

Bill

 

Ben

 

Can we close this thread?

 

No.
We need to have closure
6 pages just to drop a coolemt temp down a few degrees that’s not boiling over

 

6 pages of mostly nonsense .

 

Facts & presentation are everything

 

Well the diagnosis is straight foward.
Set the timing since that’s a big part of this discussion. Varify temp gauge accuracy.
Cruise it, check the temp.
If no change or improvement, remove the shroud and fan, cruise it and see if anything changes while driven.
I kinda wonder why a high flow pump is needed. I’ve never needed one. Is that an issue. Don’t know.
I do know a stock fan, pump and shroud worked leaving the factory.
As far as temps, I shoot for that 205 to 215 range on my junk.
Honestly Ive never considered a car running hot that wasn’t boiling over.
the “optimum running temp” discrepancy for car owners is one reason idiot lights and gauges without number were put in rides.

 

THE WINNER!!!!

Ben

 

well, just so you know,.. around the 2000 or so, back in the hot boat days... I was involved with Force off shore boats... while try'n to think up a screen name, one was excessive force because I had multible Force boats,, and was building another...problem was name was taken , was running out of room to park the boats so garage was full... owners say's how FORCE(GARAGE FULL)FULL So it turns out that I ended up the boy name sue... no one knows what it means but they don't hold back with the Digs.... they don't bother me at all ,... so anyway,.. there's a bunch on here that know me , and changing my name wouldn't matter now anyways...

 

This form /site is Nostalgic / Old ways
Thinking , Some old ways work then there are newer ways to make a better
Hot Rod , Solve issues,,,
There are Many here that are Not willing to Put the time into Testing , Experimenting, Ext ,..
Any ways , Now your Coolant is to cool for your Liking , ( I would )
( where your temp is taken from )
Experiment,, Start adding slight air flow restriction's across core in different places, You will get your temp where you want , You could start cutting on Fan , But if you go to fair , You would have start over , coolant restrictors a possibility also ,,,
So best to add air flow Restrictions to Rad core ,
Some time its Hard to Have your Cake & Eat it Too!!
You can Solve a problem then create another one, Different speeds , Conditions ..
Going back to Just cooling in Sbc
The SB2 & Ls ( luxury sport)
Block & Heads Solved coolant issues that the Gen 1 sbc had issues with to control Coolant temp ,
So There is a better / more Efficient
"" Mouse Trap""",
Here on main HAMB Its Not Welcome,
I have a Blown set up , had to make a choice 200-210 down the road, with 220-240 , sitting ( Hot and high humidity temp ) with a Electric fan that pulls 43 Amps Will drain battery reserve in 20 minutes, ( with quite a few other electronics) @ nights when under 80 deg No humanity , temp down road 175-180ish ,
I would prefer mechanical and also a clutch fan but no room to maintain a hood and alignment with fenders without recessing the motor back into the firewall further and I'm 6 foot tall size 14 shoe, 325w

 

A good friend of mine is a mechanic on real high end OT luxury junk.
He says the gauges on new cars are an approximation generated by the computer.

In his words: "If they showed accurate numbers, people would cry."

Which sums up this thread.

 

X2

 

Well we do work on old engines. The sbc crosses over that. I guess the engineers figured out they needed to run hotter.
All I know is what mine do. The 350 runs 215 all day.
My OT runs 210 according to the factory gauge. I wouldn’t doubt that isn’t entirely correct
The old big caddy engines seem to like 210 to 220
But I’m not fixing something that ain’t boiling over or puking
When I put the 350 amd new radiator in my 61 I bought a cap at that year’s pressure rating which was like 7 psi. The new radiator would puke.
I installed a 12psi and no puke and running temp drop just a tad.

 

With OPs current setup, those two fans mounted would do a better job without that 'shroud'.

Biggest problem I often see is not radiator, thermal, capacity sizing nor even air into the radiator. It's often where the air goes after.
If it has no where to go, either because of blockage(bad fan/shroud design) or over pressurization of engine bay(no exit) then the air will stall or worse get blown back out in front of the radiator and recirculate which leads to superheating the radiator.
This is bad, very bad.

That's two dimensional thinking. Gotta think in three.
It's really a spiral, going down, down... down.

Read that as MBT and the heart skipped.
Comprehension was out the door this morn'n.

Well it is protecting the radiator from air flow. Shroud indeed.
They should be conically shaped up to the fan diameter.
Or a truncated pyramid shape at least.
OPs shroud is just manifested ignorance.

Those shrouds are just lazy/cheap ways to mount fans. No actual efficient cooling is intended.

This has beem common for years, even before CAN BUS in vehicles. OHC Turbo Fords in the 80's have a pin to prevent the needle on the oil pressure gauge from showing accurate as customers were freaking out about high pressure. Buick with their Turbo cars of the era just stuck with idiot lights and a sweeping speedo. Ford also put a resistor on some gauges and used a pressure switch, instead of sensor, to put the gauge mid range. Put in a proper sensor and delete the resistor, functional gauge.
I could go on, but that would really go OT further.

 

LOL!!!

 

This thread in a nutshell.

 

Quote of the Year Award nominee. ^^^

 

That's is a myth.

The notion of "dwell time" leading to coolant getting too hot in the engine by moving too slowly, or not rejecting enough heat in the radiator by moving too fast are well-loved, and oft-repeated mantras.

Unfortunately, both of those theoretical conditions would violate the Laws of Thermodynamics.

The heat transfer increases with velocity, up to pump cavitation.

 

Uhh, Goob333, did you fix it? ..... Goob? Goob?

 

LOL... I copy paste that off the chevy web site.... I cant even spel that menny wurds....

 

Think he left the building.