To any who have done this, am I missing anything? 34 stock axle 34 spring perches A shackles w/ spacer Reverse eye A spring w/ a leaf or two pulled A wishbone w/ spacer A spindles Shortened pitman arm A brake actuator A kingpins 34 backing plates, brakes, drums Figured it will give about a 3” drop with the added benefit of 12” cast drums. The only thing I can see as a potential problem will be tire rod clearance. What’s a safe distance from the engine? Anything else I’m not thinking of?
I did this type of setup but used 1935 Ford axle, it has been a while now and the car has been on sold, but I recall that I needed to make a fish plate that bolted between the top of the spring perch to match up with the actuator. For some reason which I can not recall there was a difference in height. It was simple fix and brakes etc all worked well... Pitman arm is critical and it sounds like you have that sorted out.
Works great! A bolt together deal. You can use '32 brakes that are 1 3/4 X 12 or the '33/34 that are 2" wide. Make sure you get the longer brake actuator rods that go with the 12" brakes. You can also use the later spindles. You must use the wishbone for the chassis you are using: Model A- Model A, '32- '32, '33/34- '33/34 wishbone. I don't understand the spacer for the wishbone or the spacer for the A shackles- I don't think you need to do this. The axles are different thickness at the spring perch holes but a spacer or a little heat will take care of that. Great start for a very traditional pre WWII build. Good luck
Try searching the archives and asking on fordbarn. They guys over there do it on speedsters but I never paid attention to the details. Charlie Stephens
I know thatcthis thread was well buried in the archives, but I have a question regarding lowering a model A with mechanical brakes. My coupe runs a 34 axle, spindles, brakes and the likes. It stop well, steers fine, but could do with a touch more lowering. My question is - if I used a dropped axle that hasn't been stretched, would 35-36 brake actuators be shorter than Model A's or 32-34's, and not foul the original shocker dog bones? I thought that they may differ in length due to the different wishbone and perch bolts used in 35-38 Fords as compared to 28-34 models. Anyone have any if these actuators to measure ...... and maybe sell if it works out positively?
Couple pictures, the camera distorts it but the arm is even with the end of the ruler. Overall is right about 6-3/8". The bolt hole is at angle to the shaft centerline. '28-'36 axles are the same distance from perch bolt to kingpin. There are different angles involved between Model A, '32-'34, and '35-'36 kingpins, perch bolts, and actuators. Probably should use matching kingpins, perch bolts, and actuators and make a spacer link between the perch bolt and actuator to compensate for the axle drop.
@RICH B Thanks for the information and photos of the actuator. I saw something on YouTube about the actuators having different angles from the kingpin.The actuators on my coupe are about 8” long, so the 36 ones achieve some of what I am looking for. now the question is ‘will the 36 king pin and actuators work on a dropped axle?’ I know I have to make an extension from the 32 perch bolt actuator mount and incorporate an angle to bolt to the 36 actuator. I wonder if there is anything else needed to do the swap.
Try your question on fordbarn, I know I have seen that exact problem addressed somewhere. Have you searched the archives here and on fordbarn? Charlie Stephens
The standard upgrade is covered in this Build thread on page 4 here is a link, GREAT Build. Might help, https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/traditional-banger-build.1292789/page-4
Something to consider in your plans: '35-'36 operating arms hang down as compared to '28-'34 arms that point up.
Damn, foiled at the post. I wonder if I could use the body of the 35-36 actuator, and the shortened internals of a Model A with the operating arm in its stock position. what I’m trying to do is to avoid shortening the body of the actuating arm. I have searched the archives here, haven’t found an exact match to what I am attempting to do.
I re-checked out that thread. I have almost the same setup already - I have a 33-36 axle, otherwise it’s the same. ‘I have a dropped 32 axle - and as with 99% of dropped axles, it wasn’t stretched. To run mechanical brakes, the brake actuator interferes with the lever action shocker arms as the distance between the king pin and the perch bolt narrows, ,and could potentially run foul of the guard brace - My coupe is full rendered.
Take a set of '35-'36 actuators apart and reassemble the housings and shafts to work with the arms up.
This is a model A actuating rod, as an example. I have seen that someone did reverse the lever on an actuator in a previous monthly banger thread, so it can be done. I have some friends out here looking for 35-36 actuating rods. I think the rods will need to be swapped for upwards pointing versions, due to the cam on the end of the rod working in the opposite direction in the later (downwards pointing) as compared to the model A to ‘34 versions. I saw on YouTube that the later cups may be smaller than the earlier cups - time will tell, as I need a set of later actuator setups to compared with earlier king pins
The Jalopy Journal
