UNI SYN instructions need a copy HELP!!

seems my filing system has let me down.

I only saw these the other day!

I have decided to try to get my hot rod stuff organised so I can find it when I need it quickly, but so far I am failing dismally. But if anyone has a copy of the instructions that would be great if you could scan them.

I also have a few people I said I would p*** the instructions along too.

seems I will in earnest make an effort to keep a file on this stuff, I hate spending hours searching for something you saw only last week!

 

what kind of man keeps or reads directions?

mine actually came without any.
I posted questions here and got a lot of usefull info,
the thread ended up in the Tech Archives,
go there,
click on Thread to sort alphabeticaly
and scroll down to prefix Carburetor,
***le: carb syncing, how?


Phil1934 posted a scanned image of the instructions

 

thanks will do,


I keep em, didnt say I READ them

 

hey mate,

Ben and I saw you cruising back on Sunday, we were heading out to Romsy. Mate, you car is a wet dream I tell you... looked killer cruising on the highway..

Danny

 

thanks mate,


sorry if you waved and I didnt see, I was in cruise mode. Just enjoying the sun and some tunes - the sweet sound of a blown flathead.

 

Adjusting carbs with a Uni-Syn

If you’re running progressive linkage, and have the proper carbs on the ends i.e. carbs w/o idle circuits or Stromberg 97s with the ****erflies closed p and idle screws down tight, you only want to sync up the carbs you’re actually running on. If you’re running a tri-power with progressive linkage, the UniSyn is no use to you. The Uni-Syn is used to sync up the idle stop screws in the carbs that are actually working at idle. If only one is working, there's nothing to compare it with. The end ones aren't working, or at least they shouldn't be if the set-up is correct. Uni-Syns are used to duplicate the throttle stop adjustments for two or more working carbs, not just one carb.

Loosen all of the throttle arm screws so that none of the carbs are mechanically connected to each other or, at least, to the carbs you’re adjusting. You’re going to want to set each individual idle stop screw so you don’t want anything interfering with your ability to get them spot on.

What you’re going to measure with the Uni-Syn is air velocity which will translate to air volume. Air rushing past that little port will cause a vacuum to form inside the port (the Bernoulli principle). This vacuum will cause the little ball in the tube to rise as the vacuum increases. The higher the ball, the more air flowing through the carb. You want the ball to remain in the same spot for each carb.

You start off by placing the Uni-Syn over one of the carbs with the tube straight up. Carefully adjust the disc in the center so that the ball is midway up the tube. The farther down you screw it, the faster the air will rush past the port. Screw it down too far and it’ll act like a choke. If this happens, you may need to settle for a lower position of the ball.

If you have to deal with a choke ****erfly getting in the way, slice a piece of exhaust tubing, close it up a bit and TIG weld it up again to make a spacer.

What you’re concerned with is getting a ball position that can be duplicated on the rest of the carbs. You don’t want it at or near the top or bottom. You can’t get a feel for the settings if the ball is at or near the end of the tube.

DON’T CHANGE THE ADJUSTMENT OF THE DISC.

Move the Uni-Syn to the next cab. Adjust the idle stop screw in or out to open or close the throttle blade so that it matches the other carb. You’ll know when you’re there because the ball will be in the same place.

Go through all of the carbs and get them synchronized so that the same amount of air is flowing through each one.

Once you’re done you may have an idle that’s too high or too low. If so, tweak the idle stop up or down as necessary and readjust the Uni-Syn to get the ball back into a position where it’ll give you some room to fiddle with the screws again.

Go through all of your carbs again and set the idle stop screws so that the ball is in the same place for each carb.

If you don’t have idle stop screws, fabricate something. You CAN’T use the linkage for an idle stop.

Anyway, when you have the same amount of air flowing through each carb, tighten your throttle levers back up.

Re-check the Uni-Syn readings to make sure you haven’t pulled a throttle off the idle stop screw.

When you have the idle stop screws set up properly, connect a vacuum gauge and adjust the idle MIXTURE for maximum vacuum. If this significantly alters the idle speed, go back ad resynchronize the idle stop screws.

This is fun, isn’t it?

Cheer up. When you finish, you shouldn’t have to go through all this effort again unless you disturb the settings.

 

hey mate,

were were on that bit of road where there is about a 40m wide section of gr*** in the middle but we did notice you drive past. enjoy that sound, because i think it would sound better then the whine i get from my ****** at the moment ahahah

Dan

 

thanks desoto,


I'm well versed in operating a uni syn, I have had mine for a few years.

what I was chasing is the actual instruction sheet so I can copy it for someone who doesnt know.

I will print out your explaination as its better than the sheet tho

 

I see this is a pretty old post, but I thought I would post the Unisyn instructions that came with my Unisyn, hope these will help someone.

Ed Greenwell

 

If idling on 2 or more carbs have the red ball the same on each carb.

 

I found on my 250 inline six, it had very little air flow through two W-1 Carters at idle so the float ball wouldn't lift very high. I took the UNI-SYN apart and cleaned up the p***age ways plus made sure it sealed at the pivot point. With some heavy silicone grease for a seal, it works much better than as delivered. It will now lift the float 1/2 way up the tube at the same rpm it wouldn't before the clean up.

 

Okay thanks.