Technical how did you paint that? fixtures and taping technics

set these up on some angle iron, painted the backlights side first them flipped it over and painted the top. very small marks will be on the back side of the pieces but they will be protected and won't show.

 

Lets see the good stuff.[emoji6]


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hah, I didn't take any photos of your axle, spindles steering wheel , wish bone and windshield....but they are shiny.

 

No problem, I’ve got it covered.[emoji102]


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There's an easy way or a hard way. I took the easy option and elected to put the body on a rotisserie. A lot quicker and easier to undertake the work and prepare for paint and not have to jack it up and lay underneath on the floor. I can also stand inside the door opening to finish the interior. I'm way too old now to crawl underneath, damn limited clearance. I'm not as young anymore Once painted underneath, mask floor and firewall up and lower the rotisserie to finish painting the body and then it's ready to drop onto frame.

 

Made some eyebolts to suspend the steering column, and another wire passes down through the tube to keep things from swaying. Never liked spraying a moving target..







Here rare earth magnets help to hold door latch pull rods for epoxy primer.








....and the rod clips

 

Some good hood painting apparatuses on the preceding page, I thought I would through mine in.
I have louvers to sand and the some light dings to bing out before painting and polishing. This position was a happy medium to perform all of that work. I am 6'2 and this height it is perfect for painting and body work.

I made it from a scrap engine stand that I used to hold my fenders during paint last year.
The wheels make it quite portable which is nice when you work by yourself.
The cross arm is a piece of roll bar tubing that went behind the back of the seats in my dune buggy, I removed it to give me more leg room. I made up a bracket that bolts to the hood mounting threads. The cross arm is welded to a piece of exhaust pipe via an 8BA rod piece I had lying around.

The hood is nearly perpendicular but does lean forward a bit so it is stable on the stand.

It will remain here until it is ready to mount permanently on the truck.

 

I guess I could show you those stands as well. I bummed old engine stands off of everyone I knew, mounted the fenders to plywood and the plywood to the stands. They could pivot so you could work all areas in position.

I did all of the welding, hammering, primering, blocking, painting, wet sanding and polishing on the stands. I should have rolled them out to the front yard as they look like flamingos while in pink primer.

In fact I made rolling apparatuses for the entire truck so it was easier to paint and move about.

Including the doors which I mounted in position to make my spray pattern the same as the cab. I wasn't using metallic paint/pearls/translucents or I would have painted them on the cab.

Easier to polish this way than when they are on the truck, as you can rotate them to make sure you didn't miss anything. Easier on your back too.

That's how I did it.

 

Holding a glove box door using only the threaded holes for the hinge.

 

pics show masking, with green tape & placement of cut up old T-shirt & shop rages & pieces of newspaper & paper towels when painting valve covers on 390 without removing them on '65 T-Bird - has plenty of vacuum lines, A/C lines and power steering lines, etc to cover

 

Lots of excellent info in your post.
Thanks for sharing!

 

Nice booth!

 

very nice

 

@Jalopy Joker, When I first saw your post I thought "why not just remove the VC's? Then I saw the 2nd pic. Wow; you've got 10 pounds of stuff in that 5 pound bag...

 

I upgraded to a bigger/better English wheel and wanted to paint it red. I used my engine crane by removing the hook and sliding it into the frame to lift and hold it. a couple of chunks of wood and a safety chain held it safely and solidly.

 

Yeah, that's the one I tell people about. Here's a side shot of a 390 engine. Note the angle of the exhaust bolts and how many of the holes are through holes, meaning they fill up with water and then rust.

Consider the T-Bird has a unibody with non removable inner fenders and fairly narrow frame rails. You do not want to drill the bolts out.

 

Masking ready for paint can be a whole artform in itself sometimes.

When I am masking a job like you have here @jalopyjoker I sometimes go into the kitchen and get the roll of aluminium foil. I find that it is easy to crunch around hard to mask items and it is easy to remove too

 

This thread inspired me to make a fixture for this '55 grille brace. It was pitted and needed filler. I used it's mounting holes with bolts from underneath drilled through the board. Handy for sanding and the part doesn't get banged around in storage.

 

And when it mounted to a base you can clamp the base down so the damn DA doesn't send it flying across the garage if you catch an edge.

 

A lot of these fixtures are getting reasonable! I usually go to the fab shop a couple of blocks from my house and buy 1.5 angle iron, then stop by harbor freight and buy casters. I've built a bunch for myself under $100 each, but I walked in the paint supply store last week and there's a new bumper cover/ fender/ whatever you wanna hang on it fixture set up in the floor, I asked how much.... $75!!! I said I'll just carry this on out to the truck now i deal with where to store fixtures while not in use lmao