Alan are all the 7024 basically the same? IIRC jetweld is a Lincoln name right? I remember the first time I ran 7024 I couldn’t believe how well my welds came out. Thanks Dan
7018 DP RP , and burn burn burn rods . Your not if you only study welding . Practice makes perfect . I hate 6010s pipeline rods first two passes 7018 cap was my game plan. Haven’t burned a rod in years I hate it wire or tig is my friend
"Direct Polarity" I think with 7018 you will be happy, I bought a older thermal arc DC machine and was doing some farm welding with 6011 and wasn't real happy with the results until I started to use 7018. When you have the heat just right the slag will just about fall off with no chipping hammer.
Just a suggestion. Go to Hobart and find their downloadable charts on welding rod. Look for the AWS Classification Poster. It defines what the numbers on welding rod means. The first 2 numbers is tensile strength of the rod material. The 3rd number is position. And the 4th position is the coating type and current, i.e. ac, dcep, and/or dcen. There's other charts as well that might be helpful.
You're correct, JetWeld is a Lincoln name. Some folks may like other brands, but Jet is what Chicago Bridge sent to the welders in the field. It's not to be used for horizontal or vertical welds.
Use 6010 to tack metal together and for root passes. 7018 for cover passes or you can use it for the complete weld. I use 80 amps for 1/8" to 1/4" metal using 3/32 rod. This is on a 300-400 amp machine. Start the rod like you're striking a match. You will find that 7018 rod is hard to start with a partial rod. Which is why it's not usually used for tacking up metal. I have a large bastard file or a rough brick standing by to tap the end of the 7018 rod which helps to knock off the flux that coats the end of the rod when you stop. Gas, Tig, or Mig is the only thing I use on metal thinner than 1'8"
Interesting info as I have one of those Tig DC stick welders that I bought a few years back to have an affordable tig welder. I do all of my welding outside because I don't have room inside my little 90 year old wood one car garage. A lot of the time If I want to get anything done I have to stick weld rather than mig weld simply because any breeze screws with the mig. I've still got my big old Forney welder that you move the plugs on the leads around to change amp ratings that farmer rod works great in though. Being as I live in the middle of a hay field that is appropriate. Now I'll have to hunt down some 7018 for the little welder.
No, your terminology is correct. Here are some pics of weld types with the number and letter combination that is used in the industry to describe the weld positions. If an employer wants a person tested for a particular weld position, these number/letter combinations determine what weld he, or she, or they will be doing. What I said about not using 7024 applies to 2G, 3G, 4G, 5G and 6G welds. You wouldn't use it for 3G, 3F, 4F or 4G welds, either. You can use 7024 for 1G, 1F and 2F welds as they are all flat down welding. Hope this helps.
Jet rod, haven't thought of that stuff in a few years. Welded up more than a few feet of Holding Furnace floors with that stuff in the 70's & 80's. Jet rod and a Lincoln barrel welder...
I received my 7018, 6010, and 7024 rods and have been making some test passes on steel plate. I started with a few using 6013, and 6011 to establish a baseline. I really didn't like the 6010 at all, but the 7018 seems to work much better than any AC rod. I ran out of time and didn't get to the time to try the 7024. One thing that is odd. I usually used 1/8" farmer rod with my "buzz-box", and it seemed that I had to run 120-125 AMPS to get it to penetrate. With this new DC machine, that was too much. I found the 7018 1/8" rod ran best at 75-85 AMPS. I have since ordered some 3/32" 7018 for further testing. However, after all of this, most of the problem is on my part. With 50 years of non-use, I had lost my technique, which is exacerbated by some physical problems associated with old age. I find it difficult to get in a comfortable enough position to enable me to hold a consistent arc, and have trouble seeing the puddle as well as I should. It is coming back, though, and I think I'll be able to make it work. Thanks for the help and advice, guys.
3G and 3F are uphill. Downhill with 6010 is usually for a root pass while downhill with 7018 is usually for a cover pass to make a weld look pretty.
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