Leroy Grannis, one of the best, if not the best surf photographer in So Cal history… and a gentleman to boot. He was nice to all of us surfers and knew his stuff. His camera equipment was to die for at the time. We are in his massive files somewhere as he was at Camp Pendleton’s Trestles taking photos for quite sometime, when we were some of the only surfers out in the water, due to the U.S. Marine beach buggy sweep all day. Hello, In 1959, my brother was into hot rods with a passion. He also liked drag racing to no end as that full acceleration feel was a great feeling as the car whizzes down the track. But, his inclination to become a great surfer was just starting and he drove north from our Westside of Long Beach house up PCH to the L.A. South Bay area to find Dewey Weber Surfboards. Dewey Weber was well known for his stylish moves on every wave. His low center of gravity was part of the lore or being able to do those radical bottom turns and cutbacks, at the time, moves on every wave. Plus, he had the uncanny ability to run to the nose and stay there for quite some time on almost every wave, most surfers had not yet mastered. His performance at every surf spot was always a joy to watch, while trying to emulate the same stylish moves. Take off, bottom turn, set up on the wall, run to the nose, then a slashing cut back and down the face to do another bottom turn for the next area of the wave, down the line. Jnaki So, for his first surfboard, my brother came home from his South Bay journey with a new Dewey Weber surfboard. It was different than my surfboard. His nose area was a little on the scoop side, better for those feet to hang 5 or ten if necessary. The underside was also a little different. But, the rest of the board was relatively flat like mine. The two things mine had was a little “v” shaped in just before the fin and that was supposed to make it ride better and stable. Also, the rails were a little sharper to cut into the waves quicker and be able to cut back faster without getting hung in the wave surface and falling. Our dad, with his 1957 Buick Roadmaster went along with us to Seal Beach for the new surfboard surfing excursion. The films he took from the pier were historic, but not available. The new Dewey Weber Surfboard was the last one to get put in the back of the surf van. (red arrow) also, my brother placing his new Dewey Weber Surfboard in last, so as not to get scratched by the others. Did the new Dewey Weber surfboard make my brother surf like Dewey Weber? I don't think so, although some of the bottom turns were pretty great with the rail up and sharp turns to go up the wave face in the next move. His nose riding? Very questionable... to say the least. Yes, he got up there, hung 5 toes, then 10, but the nose dug into the wave and he went flying face first. That is what most did at the time. YRMV But, it just took time to get used to the nose riding technique upon identifying the wave would hold up as one goes skimming across the face of the wave.
The Jalopy Journal
