Hot Rods Shop shopping

Hey guys... a few months ago I bought my first house and one of the most important things I stressed to my realtor was that a decent shop was more important than the house. Unfortunately, over almost six months of searching, very few properties came up with shops already on them, and even though I really didn't give a shit about the houses, some of them were REAL dumps...

Long story short, I instead ended up with a decent house on a bit over a third of an acre, without even a garage. I figured fuck it, whatever, I'd just build a shop. Turns out this is easier said than done. I have room on my property for up to a 30x60 building, which sounded great until I started getting quotes for concrete - all said and done I'd be in that thing for almost 70 grand. So clearly I need to think smaller. I currently own five cars, only two of which really need to be stored indoors.

How can I save some damn money? I've been looking at metal buildings, I don't think going with timber would be any cheaper.

I'd love to see some of yalls shops with dimensions to get some ideas on what these sizes really look like. I feel like I really need a loft/mezzanine to maximize useful storage space. Is your shop working for you, is there anything you'd change if you were doing it over again?

 

be sure to have tall roof for a couple of car lifts. full insulation against hot temps, against cold temps. drive thu doors with outside pads & car ports. there are hard working crews that can build quality with lower prices if you shop around off the internet.

 

Mine is 30 X 40 with a 14' ceiling (condominium storage unit) with finished interior walls and fully insulated. I've had it 20 years now, and initially, would have liked to have something bigger. In retrospect, it's just about the perfect size for an amatuer like me. (1200 sq ft of junk is a daunting enough problem when you get on in years; 2400 sq ft would be devastating.) I have a 30 X 8 mezzanine across the back with pallet racking on the whole wall. I have an 8 X 8 platform between the stairs and the rest of the mezzanine as sort of an office area. The only change is that I would have made the mezzanine twice as big. I also have 4 post lift, so the mezzanine would have to be "gerrymandered" in to make the best use of my space. I have 5 vehicles in it now (my -51 Ford, '67 Corvette, my dirt modified, my project "T" Tub, and my late girlfriend's '84 Fiero). I have room for one more in a pinch if I give up some work area.

It's been perfect for me. I have only 100 amps of 220 volt power, but that just means I can't pump up any tires while welding and running my chop saw, but that's never been a problem. Since I am getting on in years, I have recently added a few things to make it more usable, and the guys commenting on the thread seem to think they would be a good idea for just about anybody. A couple of hints. If you are going to have a lift (and you should) make sure you have plenty of space around it. Consider the lighting you're going to need. I didn't and am getting by with some makeshift stuff. A friend has the same unit and did his lighting first (LOTS of it), and his unit is superior in that respect.

Here's a link to my "Geezer-izing" thread : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/geezer-izing-my-shop.1324050/.

 

You have a third of an acre and can still build up to a 30x60? Wow, I couldn’t do that in my town.

I built a 30x40, with a full upstairs for storage. It cost me a bit under $50 about seven years ago. It’s on a full footed foundation with a 6” slab. Insulated, 10’ lower walls are 8” studs, 16” OC. 220v with lots of lights, and outlets. I used hardiplank siding so it would last.

 

It would fit comfortably in the yard. I wasn't really planning on bothering with permits - nobody else does here.

 

You just put his cost estimate through the roof JJ.
Have a friend down the road just got a 48' x 30' shed with 12' walls, 4 bays with 3 roller doors and one work bay and he said he was up for 90k with site prep, shed kit, assembly, cement floor and wiring.
Here in Australia steel sheds are the only way to go as it minimises the termite food LOL
If you have 12'walls you could put a mezzanine above your work bay for storage.

 

So a lot depends on if you are in town or out in the country. Also what are the zoning restrictions. You don’t have to put concrete down for the whole shop. Are they talking about a pole building or a stick frame building? There is no such thing as enough space. So build as much as you can afford now and improve the space as you go. Maybe add a 30x30 second floor. It could be a man cave, project work space, or living space if needed. If they frame it, you can add interior walls, electric, and plumbing as you get around to it. Make sure you have at least 12-14 feet of ceiling height so you can get a lift under it when you need one. 25x 30 of concrete gives you room to work on anything you need to and plenty of room to park on. No more than one outside parking apron to start out with. Again add on as it works for you. Do as much of the finish work as you can. It all saves money.

 

I was just reading your thread. The lift is a great idea... I already have back problems. I was thinking about building a rolling A-frame inside the shop that could help move engines and bodies around and sit off to one side out of the way when not needed.

 

There used to be a place called “steel buildings”.
Concrete and and a solid foundation is a must. Maybe do it steps.
Have the concrete poured.
Have those guys that do the “quickly up” sheet metal car ports put some, etc on your pad.
They can side them in, etc. roll up canvas and tie it down for doors.

Gets you buy until funds are free.

 

Can you start with just a roof? Add some purlins and siding later? Do your floor in sections?
How much, if any, can you and your friends do?

 

Here is the shop I just added on to and rebuilt. 45x72 with 14 and 16 foot ceilings. 30x45 is 2 story with the covered deck making an additional 30x15 parking garage. I’m in the process of closing in the back and side. It’s not weather proof but it will keep the tractors out of the direct Sun and weather. As stated, I can already see that it would be nice to have more space. But we all have to live within our budgets.

 

Did a 40x40 pole barn
Did my on concrete and interior. Traded a truck body for the electrical labor

 

I would say make anything you can"foldable". I love my "Cherry Picker", but it is too old and doesn't fold up and always seems to be in the way. I have it on my list to add some casters and make it foldable. I could say the same thing about my engine test stand, but it doubles as storage for one when not in use.

It's the same thing for anything "bulky".

 

I wouldn’t put a dime into a building without the proper permits. One upset neighbor could get your building torn down for you.

 

I built a 30’x60’ pole barn with 16’ side walls and 12’ lean too’s down both sides. I used the 30’ width since the builder said those trusses are quite a bit cheaper than the 40’ wide I actually wanted. I enclosed one of the lean too’s which actually gives me 42’x60’ inside. The reason I went with a pole barn is that cost was about half of a red iron building. I figure it will still outlast me and also is easier to hang stuff on the walls inside than a steel frame building. I have one lift and typically have at least 8 cars inside without using the lift to stack cars.

 

going smaller than originally planned isn't a bad thing as long as you design it so that you can add on later or add a "garage" beside the shop later. This outfit is in your hood and they talk a pretty good race but you do have to have a full concrete floor for their building. https://lelandsmetalbuildings.com/workshops/
You might be able to go a bit plainer and simpler than originally planned though.

 

I've never heard anyone say "Man, I wish I would have made this building a bit smaller". If 30x60 is the max footprint you can build, then do it 30x60. Personally I prefer floor space more than height, I don't like to drag shit upstairs, although the extra storage space would be nice.

I had my "big garage" built in '21, as much floor space as I possibly could but only 9.5' side walls, as I was already super strained for budget. If I would have listened to everyone's "suggestions" while I was building it, with extra height and floor drains and insulation and all kinds of other shit, I could have easily doubled the cost.

$70K doesn't really sound that bad for 30x60 unless that's just for a bare shell. Buildings cost a TON more than they did 10 years ago, like double at least. They ain't gonna get any cheaper, either, so if it's at all possible, build as big as you can, as soon as you can. You won't regret it.

 

Yes But... It's Weatherford Texas

 

Normally Pole barns are 20 to 40% cheaper last time I priced one out. Concrete is always the hard one and biggest expense.

 

check out the Garage Journal

 

Clearly things are different in Texas than Iowa. I grew up in Iowa, generally it’s all about following rules and government control. I’m in Georgia now, and it’s a whole ‘nother mindset. It’s so liberating not having the Gestapo breathing down your neck at every turn. The guy probably knows what he’s up against where he is….

 

THANK GOD!! We Texans [ yep, I consider myself one] are a pretty easy lot to get along with.

Ben

 

At a minimum plumb in a urinal if not a crapper and shower as well. JMO

 

Saw a guy near me do that. Built a very tall garage literally filling his backyard in town and blocking the sun from his neighbors yards. Of course this was built without permits and very much against zoning bylaws. He got the thing to lockup and was starting to finish the outside when work stopped for a few months, then the whole thing came down.

 

My garage is 38' wide x 32' long with 3 10'x10' doors and 12' ceilings. I wouldn't have built it that way, but it really works for me. Vehicles bays are big, lots of room for benches and storage high on walls, good for my 4-post lift, etc.

Think hard about what you plan to do in it. There are limitless possibilities for size and configuration.

 

I was quoted $145k turn key for a 40'x60'x16' with 20' lean-to canopies on 3 sides, 4x 10'x12' garage doors, 2x walk-in doors, and 4x windows. That's a 80'x80' slab, spray foam on walls & ceilings, basic plumbing, & electrical. A pretty basic building overall, nothing fancy. The concrete was over half the cost of the total price. I'm considering a smaller slab with just gravel under 2 of the lean-to's to reduce the cost. I can add concrete later.

This doesn't include the septic system, bathroom, fixtures, or lighting. My plan is to park an RV under the canopy and live in it while I build a small cabin next door. No restrictions means I can do whatever I want on my land.

 

Lots of people are friendly, until they aren’t. Do you still leave the keys in your car in the driveway? I’m not that trusting.

The OP and all the other Texans and Georgians can build whatever they want. But I like guarantees.

 

As mentioned, check out Garage Journal, top right on the page.
I have paragraphs on the shop situation in my life, but will cover a few big points.
1. access - make it so you can get in and out easily with live and dead cars. No steep drives, tight curves, big lips at the edge if possible. If you live in a wet area, make sure to account for drainage away from it.
2. air flow and solar gain - look at the prevailing breeze and set it up so you can let that vent in the summer and close it up when it's windy. If the big door faces this, you will sweep 10 times more.
If possible, don't have the long, solid wall facing south. If so, a breezeway or some sort of shade will help. Texas is variable in climate, but swamp coolers, eave vents and other more passive cooling is better than having a super A/C system that sucks all your project money each month.
3. 5 year plan - You are young and this is your first house. Some people will make it their permanent only house. Most move on and up. Don't spend money you won't get back. Shops are great for increasing value in some locations, but most of the time, are not as solid as bath and kitchen renovations.
4. I'd rather have a smaller shop with insulation and electrical than a huge shop with neither. Balance out space with amenities. This also plays into #3. The new buyers may be woodworkers or start a small business in the shop. A leaky, drafty space with no power is not a selling point.
5. Contractors - this has been a big problem for a long time, but it's not getting any better. You should spend more time researching the people doing the work than picking out the colors of the siding.