How can I shorten this GM column

Sorry Guys I'll probably be asking a lot of questions in here in the future but I need help on my 37 Ford Coupe. My dad built it 20+ years ago and it had a 351C with a T5 in it, and now its getting a 7.3 Godzilla and TKX transmission.

Anyways the #8 primary could fit if I could trim the column tube back a little. The shaft should clear I only need to shorten the column tube. The column comes out of the body at the red line and I think I'd like to shorten it up to the green line.

Is this possible? hows the easiest way to go about doing it? Cut it off the bottom? Cut it off the top of the tube? If I cut it off the bottom how do I put the bushing/bearing back in place and hold it.

Thanks

Mike

 

Take the column out of the car, and it might become evident how to shorten it. If it's a GM column, they were telescoping, and you can telescope it. Although you might run into some issues with the inner tubes. Also since you're not using the shifter, you can get rid of some stuff, but taking it apart is kind of necessary to see what you can get rid of. You'll need some patience and meticulousness.

Might also want to see about using a different column that might look more at home in an early car, those GM columns are kind of eyesores.

Don't be surprised if this thread ends up on the off-topic forum, too.

 

I shortened similar column many moons ago. Bushing just taps out of the bottom. Shorten the outer tube up higher(towards firewall) than the inner shift tube. That way you have access to weld up the inner tube, then weld up the outer. As you say, the inner steering shaft will not be modified.

 

Make sure the inner tube is in the "park" position before welding it, otherwise the neutral safety switch won't be happy if it's still located on the column.

 

Yes, I was assuming it would be scribed, and clocked, before welding back together. Good reminder.

 

so nothing holds the bushing in place but friction?

I'm confused about welding up an inner shift tube. Apparently there is a tube inside the tube. Are you suggesting I cut a section out of the middle of the tube? instead of just cutting some off the end of it.

I will remove the column from the car to do the work. Maybe I'd just be better off to buy a new column as the paint will obviously get toasted if I have to weld on it. I also would like to have a column with a double D shaft but if I could easily cut this one and retain the shaft as is then I know everything would work and it would be easier on the old pocket book.

 

Friction and a wire clip, on the outside. And yes, you remove a section, however long you want to shorten it, then weld back together.

There's some info further own on the page, which will help you determine if you can, or want, to do this.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...umn-is-this-something-i-can-do-myself.550621/

 

I guess I have no idea where to post things here for technical information. I assumed this was the place.

 

GM columns date to well before any HAMB cutoff dates, so unless it becomes a discussion of newer GM columns I think you're fine.

 

The problem would lie with your engine choice.

 

This is how I did my 66 Suburban, I had Ididit make it to my dimensions, a bracket for a rod end needs to be fabbed up to mount an intermediate shaft support, the first joint is a vibration dampening version.





I built this column for my roadster.



Using a short column with the first joint inside allows the shaft to be directed away from obstructions.

 

Think of it as a solid steering shaft, inside a shift tube shaft, inside the outer tube. Never cut the steering shaft, shift shaft or outer shaft at the same place, unless you have some magical way of welding it all together!

 

As mentioned, the engine choice kind of makes the car off topic...it's usually a good idea to not mention parts of the car that don't adhere to the "traditional" guidelines that you spent so much time reading about before posting here.

The off topic forum, however, doesn't have that problem, and you can post to your heart's content all this modern stuff on your 37.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/forums/off-topic-hot-rods-customs.98/

But again, you need to take the column out to understand how you might shorten it.

 

Since its a floor shift now do I even need to worry about shift shaft?

 

I did a mid 70’s GM column, just collapsed it to the length I needed. Drilled a 1/2” hole in the side of the column so I could get in and drill and screw the shift tube. The shift tube once collapsed to a certain point needs to be pinned, screwed or welded. The steering shaft itself was a DD shaft, slid it to the length and pinned it.

 

Take it apart and understand what all the shift tube does...see if it's part of the structure of the column.

 

I shortened just the tube on this GM column. It was from a late 60's farm truck with a 4 speed so no shift tube. The bearing cup is held with the 2 allen bolts now. The bearing and cone were held in place with the spring and the original coupling. Now I have a shaft collar holding the spring. Not easy to find anymore, but they have a turn signal head that doesn't look too modern.

Gary

 

I’ve shorted a couple
Figured out the length needed, removed the shaft and had a sleeve machined for the shaft.
Shortened the shaft and used the sleeve to put the shaft back together. This saved the splines in each end. The sleve was a tight fit. Had to tap it in. This aligned the shaft then welded the sleeve.
The column body was shortened above the bearing retainer.

 

I took the guts out of a GM column and made them fit in my Henry J tube, if you look at the GM shaft on the right you'll notice it's collapsible and the perfect place to make it shorter.



End of GM column tube that holds the bearing, welded that onto the Henry J column

 

Thanks guys, I'll hopefully be removing it this weekend to take a look. I'm not sure if I take it apart from the bottom or the top. I'd prefer to not mess with the top half if I can get away with just the bottom half. I guess I'll have to try to find a video online.

 

you'll find that it comes apart from the top....and it helps to identify what the column is before you get too far along.

we can't tell much from your picture....is it tilt? does it have the shifter and key lock? dimmer switch? neutral safety switch? There were a lot of varieties of GM columns made, and service is different on different ones.

There are a few special tools that make the job easier if it's a tilt column, and with the key lock. But you can make do without the tools if you're patient.

 

My old Power Wagon has a Saginaw column in it . I used a caged garage door bearing for the lower bearing . Has worked fine for 100K plus miles and lots cheaper than GM parts .

 

I got the column out. I don't want to shorten the shaft just the tube. So can I just pull the bushing and cut the outer tube at the red line, then cut the inner tube at the green line and weld everything up?

Thanks

Mike