I'm pulling the 3.8 and 5 speed out of my 1998 mustang and dropping a 1968 performance built 300 with a C6 behind it. Where can I get a custom mechanical gage cluster built?
Google is your friend. 1998 Mustang gauge cluster. This: https://www.cjponyparts.com/classic...waL0KWGmgdIYxL-SDlibCbgjpnmH-30RoC2ksQAvD_BwE And other choices.
That is an electric gage cluster, I need a mechanical cluster. The ECM isn't going to remain in the vehicle because it won't be needed.
I like your thinking. I'm forever dreaming about a code-free, all-analog build. I prefer the older engineering attitude, which regarded a reliable electrical system as unlikely to be achievable, preferring to do stuff by any possible means other than electrically. Here is an example of where these rabbit-holes can go: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/alternative-starting-arrangements.1099487/ The question is, how much purity do you want? Most aftermarket gauges don't rely on an ECM: speedometers may run either mechanically off the transmission or off a sender unit on the transmission; tachometers connect to the ignition system; voltmeters are simple, self-contained electromechanical things; and electric temperature and oil pressure gauges are pretty much voltmeters taking voltage readings from senders on the radiator and/or engine. Or, you can go as close to completely mechanical as possible: a cable-driven tachometer which is basically an eddy-current speedometer calibrated differently — they exist, but are generally run at half engine speed from a specific distributor which has provision for the cable drive. I don't know if tach-drive distributors for the Ford 300 exist, or if they can be Frankensteined out of other parts. Bourdon-tube oil pressure gauges exist, and there are mechanical temperature gauges which are basically Bourdon-tube pressure gauges using a transfer medium. All those mean routing or plumbing stuff to the back of the instrument cluster. OEMs like to obscure the way their instrument clusters work by combining them with a lot of other functions and generally hiding stuff behind printed circuit boards. It might however be worthwhile to get hold of a second-hand stock cluster, which you can pull apart and see if you can figure out how the individual gauges work.
So, here is the bezel, use whatever gauges you choose: https://www.cjponyparts.com/classic-dash-instrument-bezel-6-hole-black-mustang-1994-2004/p/IB77/
I found a distributor with a mechanical tachometer drive. Since I'm using a 34 series AGM battery, 96 amps is plenty to top off the charge on it after the initial start. Also, I found an aftermarket gauge panel for installing individual gauges. It's made to directly fit the dash of a 1994-2004 Mustang and, aside from the gauges, it resembles OEM. Since I'm rewiring the entire vehicle and getting rid of the ECM, completely, I won't need to worry about the built-in gauge cluster's passive anti-theft system.
These are mechanical and have a vintage look. Not sure how good they might be at that price, though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1446949736...oH6WQewTia&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I've used Smith's gauges before and, so far, I've only ever needed to replace one gage after 600,000+ miles
@mustangsix wow, those are really cheap! Looks like a lot of sellers hawking them. Gotta be offshore knockoffs. I think I'd go for the ones with senders, even though the one is metric. www.ebay.com/itm/224687080702
I don't want to do anything irreversible to the car, so I'm not touching the firewall. Without the fan and fan clutch, the water pump pulley would still touch the radiator. At that point, I only lack 3/4 of an inch, so I'm relocating the radiator to the front of the core support. I'll use a 12v pusher fan with a bi-metal temperature switch in the engine block and an emergency fan toggle switch under the dash, there will still be 1/2 of an inch between the C6 bell housing and the firewall. I'm also installing a manual steering rack that's 6 turns to lock each way, since power steering pumps are a 2-5 mpg drag on the engine. The 7.5 differential has a 1.25 inch spacer and I've already installed the diff cooler system by using a 2 port cast iron cover, NPT fittings, hydraulic oil filter kit and a constant use 12v hydraulic oil pump. It needs the cooler system because of the 2.7+ ring and pinion ratio. I'm using a Stromberg 4A Aeroquad carburetor with a two piece air box between it and the intake manifold. There will be a linen diaphragm in the air box to catch any unevaporated gasoline droplets. In the top half of the air box, I'm installing a cable operated heater control valve so that I can make the engine run even more efficiently, on the fly, by slightly reducing the amount of gasoline that gets into the engine at cruising speed. A friend of mine made me a custom bronze speedo drive gear for the C6 that should make the speedometer accurate with the gear ratio and stock 16 for inch tire size within a +/- 0.75mph margin of error. The tachometer is mechanically driven by the alternator. (Alternator: Delco 7116) I'll be using a 34 series AGM battery. I don't think that I left anything out...
I said: "You're running a C6 behind a 300 six but concerned with the drag of a power steering pump?" My reply was meant to convey that a power steering pump requires so little power (far less than any automatic trans) that it certainly will not reduce fuel mileage by 2-5 mpg as stated. You'd be hard pressed to tell the difference the steering pump makes. With an auto trans vs manual the difference will be substantial, especially if a C6 is used.
Oh! I understand, now. My friend makes 12v actuated lock-up torque converters for any transmission/engine combo. At cruising speed, it won't be much different than a manual. He already has production LU converters for 300 to AOD.
Ford OD'd the C6 back in '90 which is known as the E4OD. With diesel popularity the E4OD needed further updating and was relabeled 4R100. These updates not only improved durability but also efficiency. C6 uses thrust washers/bushings, later E4OD/4R100 replaced these with Torrington thrust bearings. This significantly reduce rotational drag/parasitic losses in the transmission. With some minor machining, bearings can be retrofitted to the C6. C6 can also use the later E40D's 2.71/1.54 planetary gearset for better acceleration. Bearing update alone is good for over a 10th in the 1/4.
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