Ok. I have painted several cars over the years. Many older cars have complex or compound curves back to back. I’ve always struggled to do so without some over spray etc. The project at hand is my Prefect /Anglia front cap. And the curves and fender tops ATTACH=full]6231934[/ATTACH]are pretty tight. I always struggle with the fat fender stuff. Especially where the side panel meets the fender /molding line. Anybody with experience / advice on this idea. Let it rip you will not hurt my feelings. Also I am in a homemade booth. Not a modern one so there is the crows foot on the table now.
Turn down the air pressure when you get to those areas. I'd paint the hood off the car, separately. Much easier to keep a wet edge on a smaller piece
Wouldn't turning down the air pressure change the paint coverage, surface finish, etc.? Looks to me like his entire front end (hood/fenders/grille) is one piece.
Ok, keep in mind it's been well over ten years since I've painted a complete (every panel bolted on) vehicle. Plus, I have never used anything other than a siphon gun. So here's what I would do. Before my first full coat I would edge every corner, the crevice between the fender and hood, and behind/under the door handles. This is when the air pressure and spray pattern get adjusted. Make sure to have a clean test pattern piece of metal close by to check your adjustments. After edging sets up comes the first coat. Remember you are not painting the hood of a 64 Impala. The way/angle you hold the gun is going to be all over the place chasing the contours as you spray that first coat. And remember syphon guns like to drip, have a rag in your off hand ready. As it sits between coats take a look around to see how you did. Have a good panel light, something that shines over a large area, in your hand as you check your work. The rest of this probably depends on the type, color, vendor paint you are using. For me I like to edge everything at least three times before the final coat goes down. Minimum four coats total. But like I said at the beginning, it's been well over ten years since I've tried any of this. ras
I'm a rank beginner here, but I try to paint something the same way I'd wash it. Top down, long sweeps not small chunks, trying to use natural breaks to keep that wet edge as much as possible. I also try to match the product to my skill level. I wouldn't even attempt to do a candy fade. Another concern with something like this is getting as much Goldilocks as possible. Not too dry, just right, no runs and drips. Treat each prime coat as a learning experience. Maybe even video it. Critique the result and go back and watch what happened at the problem area(s). A phone at RF and LR should capture enough. You can practice with wax & grease remover in the gun, too. Make sure everything supporting the task is not nagging you. If you have to wait for the compressor to catch up, if the mask keeps riding up, if the hose keeps tripping you, fix it as best you can so it's not causing lack of focus. Limber up, lots of light, and get zen.
Thanks for the ideas and points. Ive done this but as stated that wet leading edge in a double curve is tough. And more times than not I had problems with the seams.
And yes it’s a one piece front cap. If it wasn’t and could come apart /game over /would be easy. The price for having a race car.
Most painters I have heard talk about it say to paint it as it would be located on the car. Then I see doors and bumpers laid flat on stands. Maybe try having it on the back edge for one pass of primer or test spray and see if it works for you.
Orientation is far more an issue with metallics and pearls where there is a particle that changes it's appearance when it lays in certain direction. Solid colours are much less affected by that.
Good ideas on both counts /at least you gave me a reason other than “This I how I have always done it “. And for that I am thankful.
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