Technical Ball Joint Installer use on Wheel Studs?

They look a lot a like. Ever remove wheel studs with a ball joint installer? Thanks

 

I've used a BFH, the same one that I've used to disconnect ball joints. Does that count?

 

Dad......Jim said BFH!

 

You can suck them in with a stack of washers & a lugnut

 

I’ve done that many a times. I just don’t wanna be impacting 67 year old rear axle and front hub bearings. And I don’t wanna pull things apart either. So you guys are welcome to come bang away on the car so long as you warranty my bearings.

 

Will that “blow” them out as well?

 

Hey, $40 for a knock off ball joint installer vs a real wheel stud remover @ $350. $40 is cheaper than bearings these day’s.

 

Since I have a press, I'm accustomed to taking parts off the car to press things.

If the ball joint press thingy will fit behind the axle flange and hub, you should be able to use it to remove the studs. But since they're not swedged on Chevys, you can just whack them with a hammer and you won't hurt anything....the kurled connection holding in the studs is not nearly as strong as the bearings or axle shaft.

 

When I did the rear wheel studs on the avatar 56 back in the mid 80’s I had to beat holy hell upon them.

 

If your bearings are damaged removing studs. You need new bearings....

or a smaller hammer

 

I use what's available.
If the shop has a press, I use that.
If it's at the wrecking yard, everything is a hammer!
Just need to pay attention to HOW the studs are installed. A100s are swedged into the hub and the brake drum. If you don't cut away around the drum/stud area, you will bend the hub and mess up the drum.

 

If you're worried about the axles and hubs, remove them, and use a pipe to support the flange, with the head of the stud in the pipe. Then you won't need to worry.

And you wanted to check out the bearings anyways, right?

 

The gasket and o ring is a kit, but I'm not 100% if the o ring is the right size (thickness wise).

 

Every answer that doesn’t pertain to the original question. Typical I’d say.

 

Can't say I've used a ball joint press to do wheel studs, but a hammer drill on the hammer-only function works great. I had some shoulder issues that made swinging a hammer the last option, so the last set of rear wheel studs I installed I used the hammer drill to drive them out, and drive the new ones in.

 

Yes a balljoint press works as long as there is room.

 

Johnny, if you heat the studs with a torch, they may tap out with a hammer. Wet towel on the hub. Maybe just try one to see?
*edit - @TexasHardcore - awesome idea!

 

^^^^ seems the stud would expand when heated ?

 

yup, but if you get it hot enough, it'll get softer, too. And put all that heat into the axle/hub

 

I’ve got an old SnapOn air hammer that is so smooth at low throttle that I’ve had great luck pushing wheel studs in and out. I’ve got a bull nose and a pencil nose chisel that has a round tip that are great for the job once the parts are off. I’ve pulled a few on with washers and a lug nut also but it always seems like I have more work than just a lug to replace so it’s all apart anyhow.

 

Size for size they appear the same. I’m just referring to the c-clamp like portion of each type of tool.

 

I’ve often thought about it, but never took the time to test it. But does a hole expand or contract when heated?

 

If you evenly heat metal that has a hole in it, the hole will get larger. But if you only heat it around the hole, strange things might happen.

 

Yup. Works fine, I’ve done it.

 

If it fits why not?


Also when I replaced studs on the front of my 53 I just used a hammer. And they were original from 1953 with I assume new grease and shoes from 1969. Did nothing to the wheel bearings.....and 53s had those crappy ball bearing wheel bearings stock. And on the passenger side the studs were bent because someone before I got it decided to bend the studs to force a Ford wheel on for some bizarre reason roflmao

 

57 front bearings are still balls vs tapered roller. When I did front wheel studs on the red 56 I did remove the hubs. Just looking to do the least as far as r&r with the best approach.

 

Like I said if the ball joint tool fits why not? Especially if you want an excuse for another tool.

And that's right didn't you say on another thread the front hubs were a holdover from 53/54?

 

Where’s a comparison of the two tools:

One brake shoe may need to be removed.

 

Only early 55 models is what I stated.

 

It’s not a lot of work to pull the hub, assume it’s like my TF PUs all one piece head with the studs?

Wheel is off, grease cap off, cotter pin and nut.
I know it’s not the best circumstances for you right now, but 10 minutes extra, heck, maybe spend more time and repack the bearings as well.

edit: for the fronts. The rear make your choice on what to do.