Hi all! so I have acquired some neat looking headlamp surrounds/trims that I’m keen to use on my Chevy. they are from something British (possibly Cresta) as you can see by the pics they are close but will need the top of the fender extended to meet the ‘peak’ I think I can relocate the bowls to the backside of the fender to get the lower part of the trim flush, but wanted some advice on how to tackle the peak extension. thanks in advance!! J
I’ve seen guys bend a 1/8” or 3/16” rod for the new front edge of the fender, fitting tight to the bezel’s backside. Weld the ends of it in place so it fits perfectly to the bezel. Then cut a curved slice of 20 gauge to create the new top of the fender and bend to shape. Tack and weld carefully.
Why don't you search for a tri-five headlight brow patch panel. It might not be a direct fit, but it will get you pretty close and save a lot of time fabricating. Or if you could find a tri-five that has been parted out and salvage the front fender tops you would have the same thing. This image is a from a web search on brow patch panels.
Search engines work around the world. You just need to see if they will ship them to you. Here is a passenger side panel on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166656819558?_skw=Chevrolet+Car+Headlight+Fender+Top+Patch+Eyebrow+Panel+Set+LH+&+RH+1956+SCHOTT&itmmeta=01JE7A2SMKWHBSGW6YN0SGG0SW&hash=item26cd854166:g:dd0AAOSwhCdl-WTw Edit: Here is a pair also on ebay. They are more expensive but has both sides for a 55 which might fit better. 55s were more rounded like what you are working with. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964149433...706FYR&hash=item2dbb3e3056:g:uRwAAOSw9Jlm9cNb
Thanks for the links!! Unfortunately unless you buy from Rock Auto, shipping costs are ludicrous right now to get parts over. Also that second link is a little pricey for my budget. I could ruin a whole lot of ‘learning pieces’ for that haha!! Perhaps I can follow that lead anddo some internet sleuthing to figure out what the bezels are from and see if I can find an old fender or panel cut to help me out I appreciate all the help guys, Thankyou!!
Time to go to YouTube... FitzeesFabrication did something like that about 2 months ago. I would think placing a straight edge from the headlight door back to the fender would indicate your horizontal line and then make a tape or flexible pattern. Cut out some sheet metal and curve it around an oxygen tank, trim to fit, and weld....
I'm thinking it is going to take more than a brow to make that work. Look at the over head shot. All side of the fender are in an inward sweep. From the top, you are going to have to do some more work to make it look correct as part of the fender Looks like some pie cuts on the sides might work
now that I am really looking, it might be easier to sink it into fender. Cutting away some bottom and sides.....pushed into the fender making the brow out of the fender.
I'd bent up some steel rod as stated above to follow the brow. Small tack weld in place and then cover with some 3" tape. Once taped up you can get a good idea of what the sheet metal will look like. Also with tape you can easily change angles and work out the sheet metal angles and of you become happy with that then you now have tape patterns to transfer to the sheet metal..... ....
Here's a tutorial that's fitting 55 Olds headlight doors to a 51 ford which is similar to your proposal. You can do it without all the fancy tools, same as the early custom builders did in the 50's by framing headlights and taillights in place with round rod then filling in the extensions with sheet metal (as described by Alchemy). Old car magazines had many tutorials. https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/1107sr-1955-oldsmobile-headlight-rings/
Thanks again guys, looks like il get busy with some tape a card first off to see if its going to be realistic with my skill/tool set.
In this picture you can see that the top of the headlight trim is actually taller than the end of the fender and goes lower than the original lip for the headlight trim ring. To do this correctly you should start as mentioned before and get the top of the fender line with rod, I suspect the rod will go 12 to 18” back on the fender or further. I would recommend making cuts in the sides of fender on both sides of the head lamp so you can raise it to meet the rod then fill in the wedges with new steel. Or you could remove the12 to 18” of sheet metal and build the tops of the fender’s as needed. It just depends on good your fabrication skills are. To make the flange that goes behind your headlight bezel you will need a shrinker.
Im thinking perhaps I could include a feature line similar to a '54 Caddy, to blend in where the upper part meets the fender, following the angle of the peak of the bezel.
Frame it out with the round rod, then make a Bristol board pattern. Bristol board is heavy paper, cheap, easy to cut and holds it’s shape to help visualize the finished product. Tape it on, then stand back to see if you like it. Fab On!
Secure a long level across the tops of your current headlight frames. Then set the front frame rails on jack stands, setting the car perfectly level. Set up a laser level on a tripod or workbench and lock the beam on the bottom of the level where it's resting on the car. I use a Craftsman laser trac. Once you start cutting up the car you can periodically turn on the laser to confirm you're on target. Building a car is the same as building a house. You set your bare frame level, place the body, then any fenders, bumpers, bottom trunk lines, etc follow suit on level. After you do the final cut to your sheet metal filler and before you start bending it, flip it over and use it as a pattern to trace out a duplicate for the other fender.
Hello, It is not a can of Bondo job, but a full metal sheet bent to fit the curves of the headlight portion of the fender. Weld, fill then it may look as if it was part of the original car. The angle of the headlight trim is higher than the curve of the body and needs some adjustment for smoother lines. Take a photo of the whole fender and car at a level side shot. See where your lines will meet and check the alignment. The whole project may look awful with the new angle required, then again, it may make the front fender look nice. I am working on this drawing for weeks, as the front end needs some type of "frenching." and with the new headlight lip, it looks funny and out of place. As if a “pixie” took over and added his/her ears to the headlight. For me the tail light is ok, but still needs work. So, this is one step in a choice of different angles, but at least using the straight whole fender to extend it out. A project that continues between other artwork drawings. Oh, it will get done when the "crow flies..." There are a lot of noisy crows in So Cal, too. But, an idea pops up for another art project and that 50 Chevy gets pushed back in its own file... Jnaki Then again, for those that are doing the actual work, it is up to you to make your Chevy lines smooth and not look out of place. Like long eye lashes on some Hollywood make up artist's table ready to add to some starlet's eyes... YRMV
Thanks @jnaki I'm going to try and have a play with some tape and card this week and see how she looks. In my mind I have no problem with taking some of the downward taper out of the front of the fender, but it might look terrible in actuality.
I think that I would first look for a set of fenders that these came off, I don't mean the fenders that these rings came off but fenders that they would fit. I am sure that you could find a rusty set somewhere in Scotland. Then just cut the caps off and rework them to fit your fenders.
Just in case anyone cares. I have figured out what the bezels are from!!! unfortunately they’re from a model that’s not exactly commonplace, even here The fantastically named Humber Super Snipe, the 1959 model in particular. boy she ain’t a looker though oooft.
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