My wife suggested that we buy a drivable old car instead of build my Model A, at least until we have more room for the commitment and we decided that we want an early 50s car.. I’ve had both a ‘51 Chevy and a ‘50 Plymouth… we’re looking into 50s mopars and I found a ‘52 Cambridge that is promising. Is there any current disc brake kits available? I know Scarebird sold and is in a limited capacity last I knew. I had scarebird on my ‘50
I dont Know. Stock drum brakes work well if they are in top shape. After all you dont drive an Old Car like a Late Model.
My ‘50 had a drum that had a bad hard spot on the front and was about undrivable. Disc kit was easier to get than another used drum. It was great after that. I did find that Scarebird is back and they list brakes that will fit. But at $800 I’m not so interested. They were $350 when I bought them for the ‘50. Used Mazda rotors and S10 calipers but it stopped great
https://m.youtube.com/watch?si=JSxjh94A1gC9aG1k&v=3YeZk4w-n_s&feature=youtu.be This is the car that my wife and I think we’re going to get. It’s super nice and it’s a solid good original. One repaint. It’s probably nicer than I want, where it’s probably an AACA winner if I were to have it judged but it’ll be a nice cruise around car
If you can do fab work you can create your own disc brake setup. Check out this thread... https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/p15-d24-to-95-2001-explorer-disk-conversion.702258/ I used this info to put discs on my Hudson axle
Wife wants you to get a drivable vehicle as opposed to building one. My boy, If I was you I’d listen to your Mrs cause it’s not a good idea to make a woman angry. EVER.
Yeahh. Soon I’m going to have to blow out all the collected parts for the Model A build. I didn’t buy or invest a ton so it’s not a huge deal. Plus I get to actually drive it this summer and I really like the old Mopars too. Pretty neat cars, just not in the styling department
Dip into forums on the car so you can get the low down on what to look for and what to expect for maintenance and ownership experience. Ask SWMBO if she has any mods in mind, too. Don't have 2 sets of expectations and issues later. If you are thinking lowering, 700 in hubcaps and dual exhaust while she wants new upholstery and seat belts, better to iron that out now before you both hate the car. I skipped through the video and it looks like a decent car, not show quality unless it's the local cruise night.
It’s original, unrestored except the paint is from the 80s. We don’t plan on changing much for the time being except going through it because it’s in such good shape. He had it detailed since the video. He said he bought it from an old guy who had it since about new
This is the ‘50 Plymouth I used to have. Converted to discs in the front and added GM Rally wheels with smoothie caps ( dual bolt pattern aftermarket). I could buy it back for $10k, which is wayyyyy more than I sold it to the guy for and he hasn’t ran it since ‘19. I can’t find the pictures with the new wheels
Well, sounds like you have a good idea of what to expect and look for, along with matched expectations. Enjoy!
I’m on the P-18-D24 forum as well. They pretty much told me to run and buy it before it was gone. I’ll have to find old timer with the drum puller for the rear so I can check the brakes. And then I’ll have to remember which side is lefty tighty…. But my wife wants to run it in some parades and I’ll hit up local car shows and cruise nights.
That’s what I thought I had remembered. My ‘50 had wheel studs like a VW. When I converted to discs the fronts were both RHT but I still had to remember the rear had one different
Yes, studs, and the single pin to hold/align the wheel for R&I. Check the wheel studs carefully for stretching from power tools and the wheel holes and hub holes for damage. Once torqued, they don't tend to work loose, but if damaged from lack of care, they can be a problem. If you run hubcaps, you can paint the stud heads Red to warn anyone servicing it. Port and starboard lights are used for navigation on boats and ships. Here's what you need to know: The port side displays a red light. The starboard side shows a green light.
I found a near identical 1952 Plymouth Cambridge, in not quite as good of shape. Interior needs help and it’ll need paint although it presents ‘okay’. It’s usable as is. deterrants to that car is he did a 12v conversion and started a drivable restoration, and part of his re wiring job was clamping a horn*****on onto the column. So I question if it was done ‘right’ It also has a tiny cheap aftermarket air filter. I got him to $3,500 which is half of the other car. But I think the other car is still a better value. The more expensive car is out of my budget according to my wife, but we have the money and she did give me the blessing to get it. She’s out of town with friends until tonight so I’ll have to see which way she wants to go.
While you are pondering your choices, do a nationwide search for other similar cars. This is a good time to buy, but not a lot of people sell now due to that. Just make sure you have all possibilities scanned so the regret doesn't get you. Price out what the cheaper one needs and how long it will take to get it where you are both happy. Double cost and time, of course. The point was to have a DONE car. Paint, upholstery and wiring fixes plus a harder life with less maintenance adds up!
That’s where I’m thinking the nicer car is worth the extra still.. the guy with the cheaper car was asking $4,900 and I basically told him there was a way nicer car available for not a lot more. I low balled him never expecting him to take that $3,500 offer.
Of course Facebook strikes again, and I found a pretty nice 1950 Coronet with fluid drive gyromatic for $5k. Not driven in 4 years but garage kept. Owners are snowbound so looking at that one might not happen for a while.
I've got a 47 Windsor with fluid drive. I'd be happier with a std. This says the 51 is std, and the video sure looks like it is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plymouth_Cambridge 3-speed manual standard(1951-1953),[2][3] "Hy-Drive" semi-automatic $146(1953),[3] Automatic with Overdrive $98(1953)[3] So I'd still go with the first one.
yup. The first one which is the video I posted is 3spd manual without fluid drive. the one I just found is the gyromatic which is technically a 4spd. The gyro switches the overdrive in and out when you lift off the accelerator.. I drove one and it works but not my favorite. Yet my wife could drive it out of the box so to speak.. but I’m definitely leaning to the first one in the video
My wife and I went to see the one in the video and it’s not in as good of shape paint wise as I thought but it’s solid and rust free. The rear seat has a tear as well but it’s all in good shape. Doors close perfectly, and it was owned by the same guy since new up until the guy that owns it now bought it from him and he’s his shops landlords father that owned it all those years. The paperwork is in the glovebox… he brought his price down to level the playing field and my wife loves it… I did win the lottery when I found my wife.
Yup. We both think it’s the car for us. Parades, local cruise nights, Sunday ice cream. There is a car show not far away that AACA sponsors that i could enter. It’s not a perfect car just a nice one. my list of things it needs is. Tires are probably 30 year old Goodyear radials ( in perfect condition but OLD ) so I’ll put on some Vercillie white walls, or the Hankooks if I can find them. And I’ll buy some fitted seat covers. I’ll let my wife pick the pattern and colors. I found a place on EBay that lists them and can customize them:
My wife convinced me to sell a T project in favor of a running, driving car. It has been a good choice. If the car drives, you dont need a drum puller, just some redneck willpower. Loosen the center hub nut just a little, then go do some D̶o̶n̶u̶t̶s̶ "careful tight circles" each direction. Usually you will feel them 'pop' I drive my stock brake '48 plym pretty hard, and as long as the brakes are adjusted, it stops adequately. You can also swap on 12" desoto/chrysler drums.
I get the car the weekend of January 18th. The previous owner is going to deliver for me. How do I diagnose the charging system? I saw when the car was running in the video and when I saw it running it didn’t seem to charge. Turning the lights on, the ammeter goes just a little bit right of center but never goes past center. I don’t think it’s charging correctly.. is there a way to full field a generator? It’s still 6v positive ground and I don’t have plans to change that. I would like to see if it’s the regulator or the generator needs work. The regulator is available for about $130. I have the option of a positive ground alternator conversion as well
If the battery is fully charged, an ammeter won't move much. I'd read up on it, but not worry until you can put hands on it. With it being detailed and driven to you, it's not the typical drag it home and wash the crud off purchase. I'd start with getting as much history as possible, then the owner taking you out, describing any quirks and then driving yourself and asking any questions that come up. Follow up with a full lube as described in the owner's manual or service data. Stuff like the hood and trunk hinges, locks, all the stuff that is often missed. This should include a visual check of the underside so you have a good idea what's where and what kind of shape it's in. Most cars need minor things, so just keep working on those.
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