Technical 1” lug nuts

I’ve got some 1940 Ford wheels that came with my car. The lug nut tapers aren’t cracked, but seem very worn. There were tapered washers in place the first time I took off the wheels. I’d still like to use these wheels, but the little tapered washers are kind of a pain to deal with. I’m thinking that it might be wise to run some larger-than-stock lug nuts, and that all should be fine if I do that just as a precaution…

does anyone know a good source for 1” lug nuts?

 

Here you go:

 

I used those 1'' lug nuts on my street stock circle track cars with all manner of wheels over the years. stock wheels and racing style wheels and never had an issue with them. They were 99 cents back then. Any racing supply catalog will have them. Speedway motors would is a reliable source. just go with them.

 

I've used the Speedway ones and some from Amazon. Same parts. Work great on early ford wheels.

 

Check the degrees of the taper on the wheels before you buy lug nuts.

 

After the past 6 months trying to find good cheap vintage wheels, I get that what was once a fairly simple task is getting harder.
With all the welding and fixing this group does to bodies, ch***is and engine parts, I'd guess that with a bit of setup you could weld then spot face the lug holes evenly.
Yes, you would have to set stops on your drill press or mill, and you'd want to use appropriate filler rod, then repaint.

 

I have done a few wheels , weld , touch with a tapered grinding stone , then spot face as good as new

 

If the hole is enlarged, make sure the nut is not bottomed out before pulling the wheel up tight

 

What @rusty valley said. But there is salvation if they do bottom out..... Shorten the 'nose' of the nut to effectively enlarge the seat diameter.

 

While we're on the subject of nuts, I'd be nuts to not mention the thread depth on the nuts, and thread hight on the stud. If you look at an original Ford nut the bottom few threads are missing, and its drilled large enough to clear a stud that may have the thicker un threaded shank higher than the drum. Many aftermarket nuts are just threaded all the way through, it may bottom out on the shoulder before pulling the wheel tight.

 

If your wheels are powder coated the washers will help to not chip the paint. They don't rotate when you tighten the nut.

 

I use the fine theaded ones in Nascar now. course are for dirt track stuff

 

Mine are 5/8x18 on my Speedway Quick Change.
https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=1820

https://pitstopusa.com/products/arp...nasDbpmRP2MwHgM8Qeu-r749im_dOz17owMTmExdqf_pL