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Technical Fuel Tank Float Sending Urgent Question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by corncobcoupe, Jan 6, 2025.

  1. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    corncobcoupe
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    Quick question as I'm right into the hunt and appreciate any feedback.

    I have a original tank that takes the 5 screw gasket / ring float sending unit to bolt down.
    The original float sending unit is next to impossible to find but one with the same set up is available but with the locking ring / gasket type.

    Anyone retro fit an newer fuel tank sending locking ring sending unit to an old tank 5 bolt gasket / ring with tighten unit ?

    I need to know quick as my Suburban is in my buddies shop and need to get it back up and running and out of his shop.

    Thanks,
    Cob
     
  2. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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  3. Messed up
     
  4. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    62 Sub.
    So 30 ohm
    Has after market gages so prolly need 90 ohm
     
  5. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Saw LMC …..but has ring lock and CX1844 by Classic Industries in the 2nd pic for a 63 but not sure it will work.
    IMG_4312.jpeg IMG_4311.jpeg
     
  6. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 4,318

    nochop
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    from norcal

  7. Is it the float? If so you can replace that. If it’s the sender. You can use the tri five and adapt. Been a bunch of years since we rigged one. I think we cut and spliced the unit from a car. Also there is a unit to replace the five screw tha tanks sells. It doesn’t use the float arm.
     
  8. nochop
    Joined: Nov 13, 2005
    Posts: 4,318

    nochop
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    from norcal

  9. If the float is the only problem, just adapt a float from another sender.

    If the sender is bad too; cut the pick-up tube out of the both flanges and solder the new tube into the old flange and splice the sender wires.

    You could also solder your old pick-up tube into the flange of that new style sender from Tanks.
     
  10. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
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  11. corncobcoupe
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  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
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    I've taken the sending unit guts off one sender, and put them on another. You can bend the tabs to remove the resistor housing, and then you can carefully take the float arm out, if needed. If the contact on the float arm is bad, then it might be tricky to put the new one on it.

    But you also said you had aftermarket gauges, so you'd really need to know what gauge you have, because there are several different resistances used. 240-30 is common for SW and VDO, 75-10 for Ford, 0-30 for older GM, 0-90 for mid 60s and newer GM.

    The aftermarket senders that don't have the suction tube won't be much help, since you also have to get fuel out of the tank somehow.
     
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  13. tomcat11
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
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    Last edited: Jan 6, 2025
  14. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
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    Cob, on your old sender, what's the distance between the bottom of the cap to the center of the float pivot? Then, what's the distance between the pivot and the bottom of the tube. I'm thinking that if you were to stand the old one up next to the Goodmark unit, they would be pretty darn close to the same height.
     
  15. Can use the old one as a pick up.
    Drill amd mount an aftermarket universal sending unit in another spot
     
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  16. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    I won't know until tomorrow morning.
     
  17. corncobcoupe
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    Thanks fellas, I have to figure out something quick and not tie up my buddies lift.
     
  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
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    Truckdoctor Andy and Tim like this.
  19. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Well, got the new one in From Classic Industries in California.

    Tuesdays overnight Red ( double the price of the part ) for Wednesday delivery because of the LA Fires and The Louisville Hub getting buried with snow, turned in to yesterday delivery.

    Appreciate all your suggestions and yes to make this work, will drill screw holes just at the outer edges of the plate.

    Thanks for the suggestions fellas.

    IMG_4328.jpeg IMG_4329.jpeg
     
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  20. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Underneath with out the tank.
    Pretty solid old Burb. IMG_4330.jpeg
     
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  21. corncobcoupe
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  22. corncobcoupe
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  23. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Used a Fuel Resitant J-B Type worm under the plate, plate screws, then tightened it down.
    Last pic is smeared some water repelling silicone sealer smeared around the outer plate / edges to keep water out.

    Making progress.
     
  24. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
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    from Downey, Ca

    Don’t quite know what to say. That’s a lot of cash for said result.
     
  25. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    It’s all part of Looking Cool for being old. :cool:
    Had to have a gas gage.
     
  26. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
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    since it's on the very top of the tank, it won't have the opportunity to leak very often :)

    Hope it works! Did you verify the resistance?
     
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  27. corncobcoupe
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    Done - works ! :)
    Nice to know the gas level / gas gage works.

    On top of that, got the Transit seats with built in Shoulder / seat belts installed to take my Granddaughter for rides to the lake and ice cream when they come down from Minnesota.
     
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  28. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
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    Johnny Gee
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    from Downey, Ca

  29. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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  30. corncobcoupe
    Joined: May 26, 2001
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    Windows are a little tinted on the outside, so you can’t really see the new high back seats inside.
     

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