Hot Rods Model A inquirey

Hello folks. Mick here I have an original Model A coupe. The front spring has a broken leaf in the assembly. It is the first leaf up from the main. I do see some rubbing wear on the steering rod and the tie rod.
I have seen where this indicates spring sagging or tension loss. I have on hand another spring that appears to contain the same components. The leaves are exact in number and dimension. The exception is the main leaf in the replacement spring has the shackle eyes reversed. I can disassemble and use this spring for a replacement leaf for the broken one in the pack. My question is can I use the reverse eye spring main leaf successfully on this stock Model A. I am asking here because the Model A guys hereabouts did not seem to have even heard of reverse eye springs. I would not mind a little front end rake even with the rest of the components being stock. I do think the replacement spring is better overall condition. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

I can’t think of a reason not to use the replacement spring with the reversed eye except one: you may want to test fit it to see how the length of the spring fits under load. Why? Because if the main leaf ends up being a bit too long, it will “fit” but may bump into the perches on a big bounce. Just speaking from experience here, your results may be better if your reversed leaf is better length.

On the other hand, you could use the upper leaves from the replacement spring with the main leaf of your original and leave a couple leaves out to gain a bit of lowering.

 

I have measured the lengths of the leaves. I have a most excellent set of instruction manuals from
Mr. Less Andrews. In theses manuals he gives suggestions and measurements on the main leaf. I have not removed the broken spring pack as of now. I may just clean all the leaves well and bring the entire affair to a local
chassis spring shop. I did speak with them, but they did not seem keen to deal with such a minor issue. I guess they don't see much profit in such a small job. Once I have the original spring removed I do have the measurement that the main leaf should spec out at. If it is longer than, it would indicate some rework is required.
This is a sympathetic repair and reconditioning of this original A. Not a full on restoration. Although it seems to be getting more involved as it evolves. As usually the case with very old vehicles. Thank you for your reply.

 

It should work. I would take the replacement spring apart and tune up the ends of the leaves so they are a little rounded so they slide nice. Clean up the rust and dirt and then spray the leaves with graphite spray. Assembly just the main leaf on the perches and then add the top leaves. You likely need new shackles as well. I use two big c clamps to disassemble springs and lots of caution.

 

To get the spring apart, I just wrap a chain around it loosely and cut the head of the bolt off with the torch.
you'll want a new bolt anyway, they are always rusted junk.

 

I am using a reverse eye on a stock springpack. The difference is actually hardly noticeable as the new reverse eye leaf has more of an arch than the original stock leaf

 

I had to shorten the 2nd leaf a little on each end because it slid into the back side of the reversed eye during full flexure.
I also rounded and radiused the ends of the leaves, like shown in the Bishop/Tardel book.

 

mickey, all Model A passenger cars had ten leaf front springs and all the leaf's had "clipped corners". The photo that '29 Gizmo shows has a combination of leaf's with straight ends and several smaller ones with the clipped corners. I don't think that using the reversed eye main leaf will be an issue. While you have the spring apart, sand between all the leaf's and coat between them with a spring lubricant. When I built my Model A, I used anti seize between the leaf's and it really made a difference with the ride

 

Also, not knowing the condition....and may or may not apply but the shorter spring end, in the spring pack, will erode the one against it...then that eroded pocket will act as a spring stop. Smoothing the pocket out will allow things to work again as they were intended originally and drastically help the ride.
Good luck

 

I forgot to mention, I blended out any ridges from wear, reduced the length of the second leaf to clear the reverse eye. Grease defenitly helps the ride. I have an RPU and 10 leafs were a bit stiff so I went down to 9. Also the car had a slight lean on the drivers side so I alternated the leafs left to right to balance out any bias.

 

Thanks for the comments guys. My replacement spring has the same end configurations in shape as the original A spring I have disassembled the spring and have begun cleaning and touching up the ends and any wear or gouges on the surfaces. This weekend I plan to remove the stock spring and see how the arcs are and such.

 

That is a very good tip. I will have to check the clearances closely. Thanks

 

I'm using Teflon strips between spring leaves to help silence squeaking but I've also heard of carefully inserting small needle bearings near the ends of each leaf. Seems sound in theory but I've always wondered how long they stay in place. Anyone use needle bearings and can chime in?

 

Needle bearings????

 

Have you ever taken apart a U-joint and come up one needle bearing short?