Projects Fordomatic to AOD Swap

The “I” on the starter relay is for Ignition. It’s a BYPASS CIRCUIT, bypassing the ballast resistor or a resistor wire to send 12 volts to the coil. Be careful if you remove the starter relay, you will lose that option. When a Hitachi reduction starter is used there is no BYPASS feature on it solenoid, like the Ford relay. The circuit diagram provided by Kerrynzl doesn’t show the power from ignition switch but clearly shows the bypass-Thanks Kerrynzl . Watch out for feedback, starter will stay spinning while engines running. I for Ignition or I for ISOLATION. Not sure how your car is wired, so I blurted this out regardless. HAPPY NEW YEAR

 

Thanks for the wiring diagrams,
There was not a wire connected to the I terminal on the firewall solenoid so I’m not loosing anything there.
The car has been wired this way for 10 years and hasn’t had trouble starting so I’m not going to worry about it.

 

I put the shims in the starter and it seems to work perfectly now!
I even started the engine to check for vibration and it was smooth as butter.

 

Is that different than a gravy sand which? Just asking.

 

About the same

 

If you british, its "cream tea and cottage garden"

 

What is it in Finnish?

 

I'm thinking you have research setting the line pressure in the trans. Other than that, I think you have it all figured out. I do believe you will be very happy with the results. You haven't talked about final drive ratio or tire size. That is part of the equation for satisfaction.

 

Most Ford Starter Solenoid/Relays the "I" post is Dead as a Dodo unless the solenoid is activated [cranking] so there is no back feeding [it doesn't hurt the ballast because there is 12v each side when cranking]
I have seen DIYers mistakenly think the "I" is ground because it appears to go nowhere when tested with a multimeter [that causes a bit of fun]

Chances are the early Ford ignition switch has 2 coil feeds [one is "run" going to the ballast, and the other to the coil for starting]
55-56 Chevys are like this, but I am not familiar with your Ford [somebody with more wisdom can chime in here]

On 57 Chevys ,they rely on the "R" post of the starter to supply 12v the coil when cranking , But when you install an aftermarket starter [eg: Hitachi or Denso] you splice a wire from the starter "S" terminal to the coil BUT you add a diode so the coil doesn't back feed to the starter while the engine is running.

If your starter is working fine as is [and starting] ........... leave it alone

 

You’re right. The “I” terminal bypasses the ballast resistor for starting. The Ford switchs (at least in my 55) only had power to the solenoid in start. The “run” setting was the ballast resistor and accessories.

 

Works like a train toilet.

 

Finished up my removable frame crossmember.
Still need to attach the park brake bracket.

 

I had some time so I tried test fitting the transmission.
This was the easiest install I’ve ever done, I was shocked and I’m still waiting for the problem I haven’t yet identified.
All the bolts line up, the tailstock is at the correct height and angle, nothing hits the floor, I can access the top bellhousing bolts through the floor plugs and there is lots of room for cooler lines!

the only issue I’ve found so far is that the mount I have is for a mustang and is too big and hangs below the frame. I’ll have to look for a shorter mount, or adapt something.

 

interesting development,
I’m waiting for a different mount to show up before I continue with the transmission crossmember, so I started looking at the TV cable.

these transmissions are very sensitive and to correct TV pressure and the linkage at the carburetor needs to be setup just right. This often requires a “corrector” that bolts on to the carburetor.

I purchased a TV cable and corrector for a Holley from Summit in anticipation that it would all work and bolt together. No such luck.
After looking at my carburetor for a long time I started googling and I’m pretty sure that this is a marine carburetor lol.
It’s been on the car for 7 years and works great so I’m not changing it.
I’ll have to make my own adaptor, which is more fun anyway.

 

I had similar issues with the proper bracketry for my setup. I didn't care for the Lokar brackets as they seemed to flimsey. aI used two pieces of architectural alum. angle and made up my own design. the two piece are back to back making a t-shape. I also use the Lokar throttle.

 

I really like that bracket! Thanks

 

Thanks, here's another view. easy to make, no special tools required!

 

When i did similar swap, i made it by steel rod and two bellcranks.
Uniball ends.
I drilled several holes at bellcrank ends, so i had countless options to adjust tv-valve movement vs throthle position from degressive to linear to progressive.
One crank at intake manifold and second to lower bellhousing area.

 

I put an AOD in an early Mustang. All the AOD mounts were too tall. I used a C4 mount for early Mustang and it was a lot shorter. I think I had to slot the holes a tiny bit but it was pretty much bolt on as I recall.

 

I’ve got two mounts on the way, one for a ford van and one for an 80’s Crown Victoria. Both cars came with AOD so the mount should fit the trans but be shorter.
This AOD was in my foxbody Mustang. That car has had a C4, AOD and T5 and I’m sure that I used the same mount for all of those transmissions.

 

Got my mounts and built a crossmember out of material I had on hand. Left mount is for a mustang and was too tall, right mount is for an ‘89 crown Victoria which also came with an AOD.
Also got my linkages made up at the carburetor end. I removed the old kick down and throttle linkages and replaced it all.
Friday is supposed to be above freezing so I’ll paint everything in the yard, I do t like to stink up the garage with paint when I can’t open the door.

 

Incase anyone is wondering,
AOD -173.5lbs
Fordomatic 208.5lbs

 

Hard to recall what the name brand was, but I have a throttle bracket for a mustand AOD changeover to my carb. Seems like at the time it was recommended for proper alignment? But it does allow for a different position. Just sayin'. Anyways, I fell for it and bought it. what you have may work just fine.

OK, I looked it up and, and my mistake, it's for an Edelbrock carb.
But they do have some other stuff you may want to look into.
I also used their bellcrank they sell on the trans
https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/1965-to-1973-mustang-aod-conversion-kit/
I think you got this though.

 

Thanks,
There is a bracket available that bolts to the carburetor called a “corrector bracket”. It corrects the geometry for the tv cable by moving the tv connection slightly. There is one for edelbrock and one for Holley carburetors.

Supposedly the cable I have corrects the geometry at the transmission end so I don’t need the corrector bracket at the carburetor. This cable has an edelbrock and a Holley position built in.

The reality is that you need to measure the movement at the carburetor and transmission and ensure they are the same, and then set up the line pressure with a gauge. I’ll do that once the transmission is installed.

Also, when I was young and dumb I connected a stock TV cable on an AOD to a random hole in a Holley carb and drove for 12000miles without any issues.
I may also have zip tied a TV arm to make a car chirp the tires in all gears. I wouldn’t recommend that one.

 

In the past I’ve spent countless hours modifying shifters and shift mechanisms to kind of work after a custom transmission swap.
This time I bought a kit that makes the shift arm on the transmission adjustable.
Totally worth the money in my opinion.

 

Who makes that kit? I have a AOD going together now and could use that!

 

It’s a LoKar kit
Lokar ACA-1807 Column Shift Linkage for Ford AOD

 

Thank you, I will look into that.

 

Transmission is in!
All bolts installed, torque converter bolted up, mount bolted in.
Still need to make a shifter rod, bolt in the frame section I removed, make cooler lines, hookup speedo and make a driveshaft.
However I’m ahead of schedule so I’m going to swap the rearend while the car is up and then I only have to make one driveshaft.

 

What's your plan for fluid lines? I had hydraulic lines made up. If I did it again I would make up hard lines. I didn't feel like wasting a bunch of tubing at the time. The lines I had made up are good but a little bulky to work with.