So like I mentioned after getting a working heater in the 53 I decided I'm going to put an additional heater under the passenger seat to help distribute heat quicker as I'm not adding dash vents and that's a lot of interior to fill lol. Originally I figured I'd t the lines at the firewall and run them that way. But then the idea to run the cores in parallel instead. Would greatly simplify routing. I know it'd take longer to get hot but I was thinking I could run an inline electric water heater like I saw on an international 674 tractor I built. Be fewer fittings to break or leak etc. Also feel like filling it with coolant from empty would be easier. Take a peek at my finely detailed and 100% perfect scale diagram of how I'm thinking and see what you think lol
Old chevys had under seat heaters. Get one of them. This shows the water hookups. https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/319947/under-seat-heater-pictures-for-47-stylemaster.html
I have dual heaters in my Buick and Wagoneer. Both are plumbed like you have drawn. They warm up just fine. Go for it.
My 55 Buick that I had back in 1966/67 had an under seat heater that kept the car toasty in the winter and people who rode in the back seat always mentioned that it was the only car they always were warm in in mid winter. I never had to deal with the hoses but figure that they were just about the way your drawing runs.
A suggestion on the one google result I found would likely help speed up warmup. Said to run the hose from water pump to the inlet on underseat heater. That'd cause it to warm up first. And as it'll be the lower volume fan and core it won't pull as much heat before it goes to the primary core. Then hook the outlet off primary core to the intake
You draw better than I do. Looks like it will work, your drawing shows the cores plumbed in series, not parallel.
At the school bus garage I work at, we have 2014 Chevy vans, and a bunch of 72 and 84 passenger big buses. The Chevys have a large heater core at the back of the bus that uses Y fittings off the factory heater lines. No extra pump needed, the engine water pump is enough to get heat to the back. On the bigger buses, the heater lines run from engine to the rear most heater core, midway they T off to the mid-bus heater core. The mid-bus heater uses two " T " fitting with a restricter in one of the hoses. The restricter forces most of the coolant to the back heater core, the hoses are 20+ feet long each way. They all have 4 heater cores using T fittings off the main lines. Onced up to thermostat temp, all the heaters put out the same temperature air with up to 8 blower fans running. There is electric booster pump on the hot side pushing water to the back. The entire cooling system holds about 9 gallons of coolant. Yours will heat just fine with no other pump or heater needed. Add a bleeder similar to this under the seat, https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pr...58-aluminum-coolant-bleeder-port-p-19840.html .
I was thinking a bleeder would be a good idea after a buddy ran a rear mounted radiator and had to figure out the dance to get the air bubbles out. Good call @Joe H
Running the cores in parallel should definitely make things easier for the routing and save on fittings. I also like the idea of adding an inline electric water heater to speed up the process. It’ll definitely help with heat distribution without worrying too much about leaks or breakage.
Well, maybe its just me, but I spent 69 years in Minnesota cold, and whenever I was in a cold car, my ass was not the problem. Seems like a worthless accessory to me. Carry on
It's the lack of vents in my car. It won't be heating the seat. It'll be putting hot air to the rear seat and extra air to the front. All my 53 stock heater has is defrost and one floor vent.
Nearly all the modern dual heaters that I have seen use a "Y" split point on the inlet side and another "Y" on the outlet side. Those modern heaters run in parallel to each other, and the rear heat is always on a slower fan setting. The large SUVs use the rear heat to defrost the windows at the back of the cabin as well.
I know I'm being negative on your project, I should just shut up and go away, but here's another thought that crosses my mind. When its really cold out I can notice on my modern daily driver that running the fan on high will cool the motor enough that it never reaches "normal" on the temp gauge. Turn the fan down a notch or 2 and you will get warmer air, at least until everything is warmed up, and I mean everything, like trans, oil, engine bay in general. And, that takes at least 20 miles or more. Thats with 2 fans, the motor and the heater. Now with your set up, you will have 4 fans running, the mighty 235 will take a long time to get up to temp. Me...the heater with defroster is more than adequate, its not a new volvo
In my case I'm running a 350 lol. But yeah I leave the fan off on the current heater till the gauge shows about 120°. Still slows down warmup turning blower motor on then but at that point the engine is already acting happier and decently warm air is coming out of the vent. When it warms up I'm going to retune the carb because it's running a bit rich
Well, a quick search for the IH 674 heater, brings up a block heater. Is that what you plan to use, or is this a separate unit? I’ve a need for something similar-non automotive though. Curious mind
When I did my 2nd heater core it was for my old '60 Suburban that always kept the whole truck too cold in winter. A lot of space to heat, and kids in the backseat complained they were cold. I bought an aftermarket heater and made a box that sat behind my center console and painted it to match the interior. I installed the universal heater inside the box, and ran hoses through the floor and then switched to copper tubing to get up to the engine bay and connect to the existing heater in series. It worked fantastic and whether the lids were along, or I was alone I ran both heaters in cold months to keep all the big space warmer.
Those "y" fittings are usually made pf plastic and are of poor quality. I made a bunch out of copper tubing.
You might want to look into voltage inverter current draw. Electricity is kind of a “you need in, what you get out” thing. Dual batteries might be in your plans.
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