I run a filter on the heater core circuit of all my iron block engines. Lots of crap comes out. I change them every year or so. It's kind of hard to find filters that can flow the needed volume. There was a Fram I used to like but it's hard to find now. On most filters the outlet is restricted to a pinhole. But I've take apart and looked at enough filters that I have no qualms about taking the punch on the air hammer and opening up the pinhole (I don't use a drill as that would create shavings)
some hydraulic systems have a canister with a fine screen for a filter . Also ag sprayers use a canister with a fine screen .
The only thing I worry about with the crap in the cooling system, is plugging up the radiator core and heater core. The heater hose filter sounds useful to prevent problems there. The radiator...the sock does ok, and on other cars it's taken a little while to get most of the crap out of the system, then I can remove the sock and just let things happen as they may. But after buying a new radiator that can't be rodded out (welded aluminum), I don't want it to plug up right away. I've made that mistake. Interesting to see what others have done about this.
The filter I posted uses a Wix water separator filter. I use it in my 6.0 diesel. and most have a bypass in case they plug. Most of the diesel performance sites sell them.
Just to show you how easily amused I am..... I put a new vacuum modulator in the car today, it still shifts too early, but it's a little bit better. I might make a slightly longer pin for it, I don't know. I will also reread the owners manual about how it shifts, and see if I can get the hang of manual shifting. It's a Dual Range transmission, and doesn't really give you a way to shift 1-2 then 2-3. The kickdown makes it shift a little later, but the highest speed I can get it to go into 3rd is about 45 mph, and that's not reliable, sometimes it shifts into 3rd at 35 with the pedal down all the way. It's a Borg Warner Model 11, with electric kickdown, and no throttle lever at the transmission.
Because the radiator doesn't see flow until the engine warms up the heater core location should catch almost everything. Unless you're running water it should take decades for a radiator to plug up even without a filter.
That kind of makes sense, but then why did I catch half a pound of crap in the radiator hose, on it's way to the radiator? I've had a similar radiator clogging experience on another vehicle with an old used rusty engine, and a new aluminum radiator, it plugged it up pretty quickly. That was before I found the stocking trick.
You are driving in D1 aren't you? D2 should shift quicker and smoother to avoid slipping and sliding. It is different than what most are used to. Normally we go 1, 2, D, and the optional OD if it has them. D1 and D2 are different and most driving is done in D1.
Yeah, I put it in D1, it shifts out of 1st almost immediately, then into 3rd around 20-25 mph if I don't have my foot down all the way. In D2 it never sees 1st. I'm planning to make a slightly longer modulator pin and see if it changes things. I also put a tach in it yesterday, so I can more safely play with the L position. I think it's supposed to shift at high RPM from 1 into 2 if you leave it in L, then you can manually shift up at the appropriate time to get it into 3. But I'd rather have it shift automatically, when it should, based on throttle position
The kickdown is activated by vacuum if I'm remembering correctly. Somethings you might try to see what is going on. First is to T the vacuum line to the modulator and put a gauge on it that you can monitor. I have a feeling that you are loosing vacuum and that is why it is shifting too soon. If you find the vacuum to be low, try hooking a vacuum pump to the line and manually control the vacuum and see how it shifts. EDIT: Of course it goes without saying, if you are losing vacuum, find the leak.
This one has an electric kickdown, like the TH400. There's a switch under the gas pedal, and a wire to the back of the transmission. It's a kind of oddball BW transmission. If it were losing vacuum, it would shift late and hard...it acts like it has too much vacuum.
Does your kickdown have two power wires or just one and a ground? In doing some quick searching, I found two different wiring options. One has a switch that provides all the power to the solenoid and a ground wire on the other solenoid post. The other option has one wire from the switch providing power and a second wire from the fuse block providing power to the other solenoid post. That solenoid is grounded through the transmission. In the 2 positive setup it is possible the wires are on the wrong posts or that one of the two isn't sending power.
Jim, You have a ton more experience in these things, but every old school trans guy I knew had and relied on a set of pressure gauges for diagnosing and adjusting. I don't know if this one even has line outputs, but if it does, that's a good place to start.
One problem is that I have not found a service manual for this transmission in this application. There is one available (expensive) for International Scouts, which used one very similar. Nothing for Checkers so far. There is one wire to the kickdown solenoid, and it does appear to work, at least most of the time. I did have to rebuild the switch, of course...one of the contacts had broken off. I started with the stock modulator pin, 2.94"long, just like in Internationals. I got up to 3.00" long, and it is shifting better, but still way early at full throttle. I tried 3.03" long, it's too long to fit...oh well.
https://charlietranny.com/BW8&12.htm https://www.binderplanet.com/forums/index.php?threads/borg-warner-model-8-tranny.67217/ https://www.checkerworld.org/single-post/2017/04/20/Fixing-a-Borg-Warner-M8-M12-Tranny https://forums.aaca.org/topic/352677-bw-dg-transmission-tool-band-adjuster-needed/ probably useless but https://theamcforum.com/forum/borg-warner-m12_topic70610.html http://www.planethoustonamx.com/main/amc-automatic-transmissions-borg-warner-torqueflite.htm You know it's bad when there is no Wiki page for a BW M8 thru M12 trans!
yeah, I've found all those links and read up on what's out there.... I think I'll just leave well enough alone, and let it do what it wants.
I figured I wasn't leading the blind! Also thought, maybe one of them is new to Jim. If not, at least it's useful for the guy 5 years from now doing a search for his new project.
Yeah, you did find a neat link that I didn't find, relating to AMC use of the M11 transmission. And better yet, that led me to a search for an AMC shop manual, and I found one on a page that's run by a guy I know. Of course the AMC version is different from the Checker version, but having a manual to read is a good step forward! https://www.ramblerlore.com/AMC/1970-AMC-Technical-Service-Manual/Book/215H.html
Because that stuff was just the stuff suspended in the coolant running around the system. The block was probably full of half an inch of it. Running a filter anywhere in the system or religiously flushing the system every couple years in the decades leading up to that would have prevented the problem for the most part.
How about an adjustable modulator? I had a turbo 350 done over and the rebuilder installed one. I never had to touch it.
The modulator is adjustable, and the first thing I did was adjust it as far as possible in the necessary direction. It made very little difference. Which has been my experience with every modulator I've ever adjusted.
I think the transmission may have been set up that way from new. Cabs are usually in town vehicles. It gets into high gear quickly to save fuel. You may be able to play with the governor if it has one. Just a thought
I think the governor is working right. It could be that the transmission is set up that way, but I kind of doubt it...the car is almost unsafe to drive, if you have to pull onto a busy highway. It's really slow to get moving. The AMC manual suggests worn shaft sealing rings causing early upshifts. So I really should do a pressure test and see what it has. Problem with that is that I don't have good specs for this particular model, but I have some ballpark numbers. There's a hole in the floor with a plug in it, over the transmission, where the 2nd band adjustment screw is. And a little flap cut in the floor mat. Pretty cool.
Yeah, that about sums it up. I signed up for the LeMons Rally in a few weeks, and even got some hotel rooms. And started on my "theme"....
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